They can be slow sometimes =(
Yes a glass bed would even this out. BUT, you will get other problems. Like with heat heat from the bed, that has an air gap between bed and glass. Adhesion is another issue for some. I like, and need, the textured plate for many prints. That will not be possible.
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I had a warped bed. Worse than yours and high in the middle. The new one is flat.
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Ok, i talked to support after i got the new bed that was also warped. They were going to send another one. 4 hours later, i receive a new mail, saying that they wonāt be sending a new bed.
They mean that a new firmware will fix this. That answer got me VERY disappointed!
HOW can a firmware flatten out a thick warped bed? Can it take out a sledgehammer and bang it straight? Even if the new firmware allows the leveling mesh to go all the way out the edges (more leveling points), the bed will still be warped, and whatever you print will follow the bed surface. The bigger prints, the more it will be seen.
They actually called the warping on my bed to be āfractions of a milimeterā. I took photos of a ruler against the new bed, and on the bott of that ruler you have inches, and the top shows metric (milimeter), so iām guessing he sees inches as milimeterā¦
Now they want me to install this new warped bed to my printer, and do some testing, calibrations, tramming etc etcā¦ but WHY!? itās clearly just as warped as the one i already started a ticked for.
Oh, and this warping thing gets even worse when heated up to ASA/ABS/PC/PA tempsā¦
Anyone actually swapped the bed? I know itās not hard to do, but i wonder how time consuming it might beā¦ =/
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I too have a warped bed - to the point my full bed printed parts rock back and forth when on a flat surface. Bambu labs has been responsive to my tickets, and sent me a replacement bed. They had confirmed the warp via log file analysis - I suppose they could view the mesh etc. I received the replacement today and so I decided to check it before the four hour process to replace. It is warped just as bad if not worse than the original. Iāll keep it as a spare I guess, since there will probably be a worse result. Iāll let them know, but I dont expect them to resolve it. Many confuse ABL/UBL//MESH bed leveling with actual flatness and they are not the same. No amount of adjustment can make the print have a flat surface if your bed isnāt flat. Yes Ive trimmed it, adjusted it, checked it, etc. Not my first printer. I DO however still think these printers rock and for the money, are excellent and innovative.
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I have a Bibo 3D printer with a glass bed - trust me, glass warps too. My current sheet of glass has a .3mm deviation from high to low spots. Heating and cooling cycles plus uneven heating take their toll.
I am curious if those starting with a flat bed on a Bambu eventually warp just from regular use.
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I guess 0,3mm is more than acceptable, isnāt it?
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You donāt need four hours to do this, it should be possible to do in 1-2 hours depending on your skills.
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For me, this isnāt acceptable on such a small bed. Itās one and a half more than a normal layer height, and it will always cause somehow difficulties on prints which use the whole bed.
I also need to complain about my bed - I have a āholeā in the middle of 0.7mm.
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Many people on the Official Bambu Facebook group say about four hours. It doesnāt matter if itās two or four, itās time I shouldnāt have to spend doing this. This is not an open source printer/Ender where you are on your own. The fact that (I know not enforceable in USA) there are void stickers on the screws needing removal to do this, tells me they should be doing it. If my brand new car had a bad transmission, GM wouldnāt ship me a replacement and expect me to replace it at my cost/time. These printers have a warranty. Yes I know - the alternative would be to box it up and ship it back to them for repairā¦unlikely. Regardlessā¦Why would I waste any time and aggravation to replace a warped bed with another warped bed. If the one I was installing was perfectly flat, I might feel different about it.
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I agree with you in general and sure you donāt go through the hassle of replacing the bed with another warped one.
Comparing this to a bad transmission of your car is a little off, donāt you think? 
But to stick with cars, I would rather replace a defective part by myself provided I can do it easily and it takes only a reasonable amount of time instead of making an appointment with my dealer, bring the car, get a rental etcā¦
So if I can avoid sending the printer back to Bambu Lab to get it repaired, Iām in.
I would definitely go a different route if I bought the printer at a local dealer.
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Well, maybe a car is a bit of an extreme example. Letās say - a refrigerator from your local big box store. When you get it home, it only cools to 50. Sure it still cools, but not like it should. Would you expect the store or the manufacturer to send you the parts and start replacing them, or would you expect them to swap out the appliance or send a repairman at their expense? We are talking a similar cost here to the printer. Does this example fit better for you. I am still using the printer, and as I originally said - Its a great and innovative thing.
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As I said, if there was a local store, the situation would be totally different.
As a mailorder product without local service, wellā¦
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I would expect them to send me the parts if it something easily repairable. And thatās what many appliance manufacturers are doing (in the US at least).
If a company has a business model where sending out a repairman is an option, then thatās great too. However, not all companies offer such services ā especially brand new companies like Bambu Lab.
I guess it would be nice if Bambu Lab offered an optional repair service where you could send in your printer at your expense ā if you choose not to replace parts on your own. However, swapping printers out on the companyās dime every time there is a small problem would likely put any 3D printer manufacturer out of business quickly. And imagine how many printers would be sent in for replacement for issues caused by user error.
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Seeing more and more folks struggling with warping lately.
Personally, Iām suspicious of the p1pās textured plate maybe being notoriously hard to stick to. Thatās the configuration where I usually see this reported at least, but in this case I think āhigh temp plateā was mentioned. High temp plate has been rock solid for me.
This isnāt the only place Iāve seen it reported though. Plenty of folks are seeing this on x1ās with other plates as well - just a bit of confirmation bias for me maybe with the p1p + texture.
Iām starting to think this has more to do with the weather though. Maybe thatās crazy, but hear me out.
Lots of folks in the US are seeing some non-trivial temperature dips with winter storms. Iām sure this comes with differences in humidity as well. Even outside the US Iām sure folks across the pond could be experiencing some cold weather move in. Thereās just so many variables in light of all of this.
Anyway, not trying to discount potential quality issues. 100% a potential factor, but the bed leveling sequence of Bambu printers should account for small amounts of uneven surface - thatās the whole point of the thing and no surface can be perfect of course.
I could go for days on things that cause warping and adhesion issues (and have recently it feels like). Gorillians of factors like ambient temps, humidity, temp settings, filament properties, bed material properties, model geometry, infill density, etcetcetc the list goes on. Not only are there a ton of factors, but any combination of any given number of these factors could cause unique issues.
Hope everyone finds their solution. Just dumping thoughts here for now.
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???
A warped bed and warped prints are not the same.
It makes also no sense to bring those two topics together.
Bed leveling is there to close bed surface difference from 0.004mm to 0.2mm but not almost a mm.
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I mention it because it is possible one may be confused for the other. Iām certain this is a mistake that can and has been made. I donāt think thatās so unbelievable that my bringing it up should be scoffed at, even if it is completely wrong for this situation.
Shining a light through a gap between a straight-edge and a bed isnāt a sure-fire sign of a manufacturer issue. From one unitās bed to another (or a replacement bed) you might find wildly different measurements, and if this is the first thing someone checks for when a print doesnāt come out as expected then it is possible one can take themselves on a wild goose chase.
I have no problems with my units generally, but have experienced plenty of failures from print warping and adhesion issues that I typically have traced back to material/thermal properties. I suspect if I started measuring the bed I would find that they are all wildly different, and none of them are particularly flat.
Again, as stated in my last post iām really just brain dumping here. Still very demonstrably possible that folks see issues because of manufacturing problems. However, anecdotally with four x1c units and one being a kickstarter unit, iāve started looking in other easier to test places first and usually found my solutions there. (still not sure what i want to do about these noisy fans though)
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Same issue here, just took delivery of my third P1P and right out of the box it has >0.5mm warp measured across the bed. My first two P1P printers shipped with dead flat beds and work great. Hopefully support can resolve this as the printer is really unusable if the bottom of the models take on the warp of the bed, Iāll keep you posted.
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A temporary, less than optimal fix is index and business cards under the plate to shim up the middle. You loose some magnetism so keep in mind large warp prone objects will lift the bed easier.
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This is how my bed looks like - itās actually 1.1mm off in the middle. This bed did for sure never go through any QC.
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Shining a light through a gap between the bed and a known straight edge is definitely the proper way to determine if the bed Iād flat or not. If the bed should be flat and isnāt, it can only be a manufacturing error. My issue is, how flat does it need to be in reality? I use plate glass on my other printers which is far from flat as my bed mesh display shows but still get decent first layers and prints.