If you think that warped beds maybe due to climatic conditions, you may also blame your fan noise on your over sensitive hearing, and wear some kind of hearing protection rather than fix the problem.
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This is exactly what I mean. rovsterâs 1.1mm definitely raises eyebrows, but light under a straight edge, a photon, can squeeze through some exceptionally small gaps. Then, once it has, itâs path is wildly hard to trace. Youâd need some exotic equipment to measure any of the information here, and even if you did have that equipment youâd better start questioning how many atomic particles of straightness your âstraight edgeâ actually is.
So
⌠Iâm not so sure.
âA wayâ - Sure. Granted.
As stated before, my point wasnât to discredit anyoneâs concerns. My point is to help folks make sure theyâre pulling the correct thread when troubleshooting. Starting with photons that are known to slip between micrometer gaps might not be the correct end of the spectrum.
No, I was only referring to âprint warpingâ leading to the sole conclusion of âwarped bedâ. Imagine a scenario where someone goes through an entire RMA process just to find out that they were fighting ambient temps with their p1p
I shared something I felt anecdotally was a QC issue to legitimize and empathize with the stance on the warped beds. Even that is now being spun against me.
Iâm not certain why there are now multiple posts with sideways comments regarding the thoughts I shared, but I suppose Iâll look inward and try to improve my ability to convey these thoughts as only âadditional commentaryâ.
Again. I donât think anyone here is wrong. Just illuminating some areas that may or may not have been overlooked.
Maybe next time Iâll just open with apologies.
Just for information. In engineering we used a light box and straight edge to ensure flatness of a workpiece to 1/10,000 of an inch which is 0.00254mm. If you arenât sure that your straight edge is straight, scribe a line along it then flip it over and scribe a line over the first one. If they donât match perfectly, it isnât straight.
I could definitely live with 0.2/3 off, but not with 1.1mm. Not the best fade-put could ever compensate that (although Bambu does no fade-out st all).
But with 1.1mm off, nothing will ever stay straight, it will always wiggle. And I can assure you, all my prints wiggle.
My 350mm Voron bed has 0.1mm off, with heat it expands to 0.24 - this is totally acceptable.
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Can you elaborate on the process you followed to find those measurements? I understand how to detect bed warping, but am uncertain about how the measurements are obtained.
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You can get this information from the measured bed mesh from the auto bed levelling of any other printer.
Bed mesh: A map with each measured bed point with a measured height value.
As example:
Also Bambu does this but doesnât provide you with the information.
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Well, the reality is: you need no special tools to measure how much the bed is âout of flatâ. BL already has a tool built in for that, and it is fairly accurate for the purpose. What you need is just a mesh displayed by the printer or BL studio after it does the probing. 
I guess, there is a reason, why BL is not giving customers any form of access to the mesh, after it measures the bed. putting my tin foil hat on
I had my guess already typed but didnât dare to post it⌠
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Nor does MakerGear (my other printers).
How did you find those numbers for your Bambu Lab printer? Or did you just take a stab since you donât have access to that feature?
TBH with the printer design of MakerGear, I wouldnât do that either.
Check the picture above, I simply measured the distance between the bed and the ruler with another ruler. That easy on such big gaps/warped beds. No light bending interferes, nothing
Iâm out of the discussion now - denying/questioning real QC issues doesnât help anyone.
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I see. So, you eyed it up.
FWIW, Iâm not a denier. I was just wondering how people were finding those precise measurements.
Why not?
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A reasonably accurate way to measure surface flatness is with a straightedge and set of feeler gauges. Just find the thinnest one that will not slide under the straightedge.
I just made a new wooden table top for a radial arm saw, approximately 50x100cm. With hand planes and sand paper I managed to get it flat to within 0.07mm before I decided that was good enough.
Iâm still waiting for my first printer to arrive so Iâm not sure just how flat the Bambu bed really needs to be. It might be more realistic to measure with a shorter straightedge, something just a little longer than the objects being printed. You would not typically print edge-to-edge.
It might be more realistic to measure with a shorter straightedge, something just a little longer than the objects being printed. You would not typically print edge-to-edge.
Do you want to say that we bought the wrong product if we want to use the whole bed or pint full bed size?
This is so wrong from any perspective, especially for professionals where it is crucial to fill up the whole bed.
Or precise engineered parts which need to fit together, if final or just prototyping.
Or multicolour prints, where it is crucial to print as many duplicated objects simultaneously as possible to reduce waste and increase efficiency.
Or or or
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Brand new printer and I have a big high spot on the middle left of the bed. Consistently lead to extrusion issue just around the problematic region. I measured it to about 0.2mm so a full layer height.
Between this and the banding on X axis, the amount of issues Iâve had in a single week with this printer at this price point is unbelievable. I think I maybe have spent less time getting quality prints with my Ender 3 and Iâm still not there yet. Seriously considering an FLSun V400 insteadâŚ
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So sorry to see this! Ironic mode on: Donât worry, the bed does not need to be that precise! /off
If its âonlyâ this âsmallâ spot, you can try to fill it up/shifting with some tape until you get a new bed. Good luck. My Ticket is still answered, but my other tickets got resolved quickly.
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Maybe not an easy fix? Sending out the same replacement beds doesnât seem to be doing the trick.
Any way to temporarily add a shim to the low areas until Bambu Lab has a better solution?
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Itâs definitely not that big (25mm radius). But itâs hard to fill as itâs a high spot, I would have to elevate the whole bed some way or another to match it. (The low spot visible on the first picture is a byproduct of the high spot in the center of the bed.
Yeah their support seem to be pretty much useless to me. What shocks me is the amount of âpraiseâ I saw on this printer on the internet and then as soon as I used it for more than a couple days I realize itâs full of design and QC/manufacturing issues that definitely arenât easy to fix. Itâs almost like all these people âreviewingâ it didnât know what they are talking about.
I bought it and decided to not build another Voron because I wanted to save time and itâs definitely not paying offâŚ
Any way to temporarily add a shim to the low areas until Bambu Lab has a better solution?
About your shimming low spots question I had very good experience with post it notes. However this only applies to low spots not high ones like I have right now.
Moreover Iâm happy to do shimming on a 150$ Ender 3. Iâm not happy to have to do this on a 1500$ âturnkeyâ printer.
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When filling up the bed with many objects, a warped bed will not have the same negative effect compared to printing one huge object. I donât think that this comment is that unreasonable.
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When I have many small objects I just avoid the problematic region and itâs all fine. Itâs only a problem when I need a large object with a nice flat finish