My bed is also warped… got my x1cc mid feb.
i will wait till qc will sort out the banana beds before i open a support ticket. Worst thing is you get it replaced and its also bent
Theoretically, yes. I think the not-adjusting-anything-else aspect of it is probably important since that ensures you’re replicating actual printing conditions at that temperature. Plus, the only things you could potentially adjust are the three leveling knobs on the underside of the bed and they won’t help with this situation. I definitely noticed that my warping got worse afterwards, but it hasn’t increased or decreased since.
The explanation proposed by @ThanksForAsking is that the plastic used in the bed wasn’t annealed properly for these most recent batches of X1C and P1P printers. So, when the bed is heated and put under repeated stress from printing, it starts to warp. Higher temperatures result in the warping happening faster. Hence their idea to intentionally force that to happen by cranking up the heat and leaving it there for multiple hours, so you’re now in the worst-case scenario and can start working on a temporary fix that might be functional.
Could the warping keep getting worse? Theoretically, but I really hope not. I’m planning to kick off some large print jobs over the next few weeks, while I’m waiting for my replacement bed to ship, and will keep an eye on the warping. I’m in the same “your new bed will ship in four weeks” camp as many of you. Will it actually be four weeks? I’m guessing no, given how messed up international manufacturing and shipping still is. If I get mine by the end of the April, I’ll be fine. I’m not blaming BL for the long lead time, just grumbling in general about the state of the world economy.
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One thing I cant work out is afrer jumping through all the hoops with BL support of sending log files. photo of warped printed parts etc,
They agree to send me a flat bed by the end of April but their final request parting shot after agreeing to this was to send them a photo of the undeside of my bed.
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That sounds… scandalous.
That’s interesting. They didn’t ask me for that photo. Makes me wonder if there’s some kind of visible sign of incorrect bed manufacturing and/or installation–if you know what you’re looking for. Could also be that they wanted to see if you had done something crazy with the leveling knobs?
If it is a common issue, they really should think to add a button into the Studio or the firmware that would do a signed bed leveling and that would send datas result back to them.
This would make all the bed replacement process a lot easier.
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Yes I could not work it out.
Mine was delivered early Feb.
Maybe they are looking for something that gives a clue to when my bed was made.
Anyway sent a photo several days ago and not had any more contact.
As far as I am aware a new bed will be sent end of April.
poor qualty…
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outch, that is quite some warp. Is that at heated state or cold?
They also asked me for my second X1C for picture under the bed. For my first one they didn’t ask for that. And I was also told I should get both my bed replacements mid to end of April. Created the ticket for the first X1C on the 2nd Feb and for the second X1C on the 11th March.
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It is “wIthiN SpEc”
Yeah, within spec if you are printing out only bananas.
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Guess there is something on the underside of the bed that shows from what batch they came from.
Dunno…
Or they have no idea what the heck it is that they are asking for. I mean, I am sure at this point they have received enough beds back that they can trace out these different batches.
Seems like a random, nonsensical ask to me. Just more customer service BS time stalling.
“Within spec” 
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Yes but an example photo of the angle they wanted only shows one adjuster.
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If it was so logical wouldn’t they specify to send them pictures of the adjusters specifically than just a random phot of the “underside of the bed”?
Sometimes it is unnecessary to sanitize stupidity. It is okay to laugh and ridicule something which make no sense.
However, maybe you are correct and they need to specify why they want these underside pictures. Who knows. I am not here to argue.
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I agree, plus the photo from the manual tramming page is just a starting point to ensure the nozzle isn’t in contact with the bed when you start the tramming procedure. As you go through the procedure, the screws won’t end up flush as depicted. Also, I would think they can tell if it is trammed properly by your log file.
I submitted a ticket on Saturday and waiting to hear that it is “within tolerance” at which point I’ll probably loose it. My dip is only like 0.7-0.8mm, but the nozzle really scrapes into the first layer along the left and right sides of the bed for about 25-35mm on both edges. This limits me to 190mm print width which sucks because I can’t fill the bed. So not only do I not get the as claimed first layer consistency, but I get a reduced print size and a warped bottom (not engineering grade).
I put a lot of tape on it, but finding it tough to get it flat and not wavy since I’m working in the box. The nozzle doesn’t grind any more, but I am getting some spots where the nozzle is too high I think. It would be a lot easier to take it out and do it.
They probably only need an image of one of them given it’s 3 point “leveling.” The knobs aren’t for trying to make the bed flatter.
As @ThanksForAsking already pointed out earlier in the thread, the adjusters are not actually for bed leveling by manipulating the surface of the bed, like some traditional 4 point systems are. 4 point systems push each corner up or down independently in an attempt to flatten the entirety of the bed out. But this can often cause uneven forces and make bed warping worse, especially after repeated heating and cooling.
On the Bambu Lab printers, the 3 point system allows the bed to pivot and stay flat when adjusting. Of the two adjustment screws in the front, one is a reference adjuster that sets the height to the nozzle, and the other is a pitch adjuster. The third in the rear is a roll adjuster. After the reference adjustment has been set it doesn’t need to be manipulated again. The pitch and roll adjusters allow the bed to pivot on the reference screw to make the bed parallel to the machines X/Y plane. But of course all of this is dependent on having a flat bed to begin with. A properly trammed bed with a warped bed is still going to be just as warped.
It can be a little confusing and hard to wrap your head around until you’re used to a 3 point system, which is far superior to a 4 point system (my previous Zortrax printer had a 3 point bed as well, and it required frequent adjustments and took me a while to understand). If I had to guess, they just want to see a picture of the reference screw to see where exactly you have your nozzle height set since they probably have the data for everything else in the log.
But who knows, I could be wrong. There could be a tell on the bottom of the bed that indicates something is completely different on the warped beds, like a manufacturing stamp. Would be interesting to compare photos of those with warped beds to those who have good beds.
I’m pretty sure the picture has nothing to do with the knobs position, rather batch indicator.
Why i’m pretty sure sure?!
I didn’t send the picture in my first reply, but they already told me I get a replacement bed and still asked me then I if could send the picture from underneath. 
And again, a 3 point system is not superior of an 4 point system if the motion system is not adjustable on X and Y (Gantry) since you can not level/align the bed to X and Y!
