Warped bed :( seems like a common QC issue

You could be right. I know they told one person that, I’m pretty sure that was when they were still shipping out warped replacement beds. Seems like they’ve been pretty fluid during all of this,acknowledged there was an issue, and that they’d ship replacements in a couple weeks once they got their manufacturing processes and quality control issues sorted out.

Sounds like it’s going to be awhile, tbh I don’t see how it’s going to be solved shipped within 2-3weeks… The blog post couple weeks ago, indicated they’re working on it meaning they don’t have the solution yet, and shipping alone would take 2-3 weeks. So, unless they have the beds ready to be shipped, I think they just ran out of bed replacements to send out

It’s been an issue for a couple months now and they’ve indicated to several customers that they would begin shipping the new beds within a few weeks once they got their processes sorted out. Some people are only a week or so away from having their new beds shipped.


Only time will tell if these new batches are actually flat or not, but we should know pretty quick once some people start receiving them.

Yeah, most people involved in this thread will be quick to update us all.

Looks like I’m joining the bowed bed club. I submitted a support ticket, but I haven’t heard back yet. It would be nice if we could get a heat map of the ABL results. If it’s going to take a while until I get a replacement bed, I would like to fix the warp in the meantime with a few layers of heat-resistant tape.

How much warping should be acceptable for a bed anyways? In cold state, should it be absolutely flat like a machine surface?

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Guys, OP here, I am in line for a second bed replacement. I was promised mid March so hoping to hear any day now.

In the meantime I am relying on goodplate and getting a bed machined out. We will see.

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That’s tough to say, since pretty much all materials will flex when they are heated and cooled. How much depends on the material.

X1C auto bed levels every time to compensate for it (as do other printers). Some do a better job at it than others.

So a better question is: Are the bottom of the parts I’m printing warped? Am I having bed adhesion issues because my bed is warped? If the answers the these questions is yes, then it’s not acceptable.

But expecting a perfectly flat bed at room temp and at maximum heat probably isn’t realistic given the price point of these printers.

Nice. Looking forward to hopefully seeing a resolution to this problem.

Did they indicate if they were changing the design or just working on improving the processes/supplier on the current bed?

Can you take side by side photos of the old and new before you install anything?

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My GoodPlate arrived today.
Will give it a run on Monday.
It’s going to be at least 4 weeks before BL get a replacement bed to me.

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Well, they had to be convinced that they cannot simply send me another plate form older stock as they had indicated that they are improving their QC, and I want replacement from their newer stock as the original replacement they had sent was warped worse than my current bed.

And yes, let me get the (new) bed and do some comparisons side by side with all three. Will be fun.

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Man definitely give it a run and let us know. Mine will be here next week as well.

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Nicely put together quick fix.
The Z axis stepper motors should be able to take a holiday.

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Even after this problem is fixed, it would be nice if Bambu Lab made a product like this as I do enjoy printing on glass:

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just curious is that specific brand of plate? having a hard time finding “goodplate”

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@Umuzoo can provide those details if you send him a private message. The details were posted elsewhere, but Bambu Lab removed them.

<Insert standard comment about how I shouldn’t have to do this on a $700 printer here>

Time for another update on my adventure of using aluminum tape to level my warped bed. Following the advice of @ThanksForAsking, I “settled” my heatbed by cranking it up to 100°C and letting it sit there for about four hours, which in theory makes the warp as bad as it will ever get (fingers crossed). I did so after removing my first attempt at using tape, which was admittedly not bad, but I was concerned that my bed wasn’t done warping because I tend to run it at 60-65°C for PLA. Sure enough, the warping got worse after the settling. Then I got to work.

The tools I used: roll of 0.07mm aluminum HVAC tape (standard 3M product), a vinyl squeegee, a box cutter with a new (sharp) blade, a metal ruler, a small spray bottle filled with Windex, two garbage bags, a roll of painter’s tape, and a lot of patience. I worked on it over the course of the entire afternoon.

I taped up the garbage bags around the perimeter of the bed to protect all of the electronics, then I set the bed temp to 35°C, which is warm enough to evaporate the Windex, but not right away.

I cut a lot of tape strips, each roughly 26cm long. It’s sticky stuff, hence the Windex. If you spray a light coating on the surface and then put the tape on, you can still move the tape around a little and also use the squeegee to get rid of wrinkles and air bubbles. The Windex evaporates relatively fast, after which you’re left with a perfectly flat piece of tape stuck to the bed. After applying each piece of tape, I used the box cutter to trim off the excess.

When the first layer across the bed was done, I built up the center strip until it was level with the sides of the bed (checked by using the ruler). I then did the same with all of the other strips. I had to cut some more narrow pieces to fill some smaller gaps, but overall the process worked well. I then cranked the heat up to 65°C to check flatness at my normal printing temp. There was still a small dip in the center, so I let the bed cool back down to 35°C and added some more tape.

Results are definitely good enough for now. There will be some small undulations across the surface because the tape method isn’t perfect, but it’s on the order of +/-0.07m, so essentially less than the thickness of one high resolution layer.

I’m going to print some simple test pieces tomorrow (long rectangles that span the width of the bed) and will post pics of how they look when joined together.

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Impressive work! With so many other projects, and the still very fresh disappointment of having just bought my P1P with a warped bed, its hard to imagine having the time and motivation to do this, but maybe in a few days. Otherwise its definitely my favorite of my 3 printer so far. I thought my AnkerMake was fast, and it is, but like, sort of clumsily so. It does however have a nearly perfectly flat bed so go figure. Anker probably makes Straight Edge Bars at this point.

I’d like to give the bed “settling” a shot, is it really just setting to 100c for a few hours? No adjustments to relieve any strain or tension anywhere? I haven’t really done any investigating of the construction, simply used my straight edge to find at least a .625 mm low in the center.

Just do a Google seach for goodplate dot de

Seems I joined the curved bed club too :neutral_face:
Must have beed a pretty bad batch of beds they shipped out. My X1C arrived end of Feb.

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Auch ich bin ab heute leider mit im Club der verzogenen Druckbetten.

Support Ticket habe ich gerade erstellt… :frowning:


Unfortunately, as of today, I too am in the club of warped print beds.

I just created a support ticket… :frowning: