Yes, that is exactly what I am trying to do. I am ordering some cast aluminum stock and then plan to machine a drop in replacement at the minimum. Additionally if possible I will try and resolve any issues with the manner in which the bed is attached the plastic assy and resolve anything that might cause issues there.
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I use it with 3mm glass. Initial calibration of the printer (loading filament, nozzle cleaning, mesh bed leveling, PA calibration) is usually long enough for the bed to get fully heated. About 100 hours of printing so far, no issues.
Iām still waiting for my replacement bed. But unless the replacement is perfectly flat, Iām not even going to actually replace it, thatās how Iām satisfied with the glass āupgradeā.
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Likewise.
If my replacement bed is flat when it arrives I will get round to fitting it one day.
Perhaps.
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Thank you. Three questions for you:
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is your glass sheet the same thickness as goodplate?
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I use the PolyLite PLA profile from the built-in profiles. It sets the bed temp to 55 which is perfectly fine. With a glass sheet on, do I need to fiddle anything on the bed temp myself?
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are you using anything under the glass bed like silicone glue or something?
Mine is a GoodPlate.
Using generic PLA settings.
Bed temp 55 deg C.
Nothing between heatbed and GoodPlate apart from one business card in the centre to assist with the support of my 0.6 mm dip.
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Just received a prototype milled aluminum bed. 2 out of my 3 P1Pās have inconsistent beds with hills and valleys, making it especially difficult to print along the outer edge where the ABL canāt cope. No tape, no glass, no silicone goop. This is the first time Iāve been able to print out to the edge of the bed like this. Super happy with the result. Needs a caution label - bed gets super freaking hot LOL!
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Very nice ! Is it on top of the original heatbed ?
Did you take offers ? 
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oh you beat me to this!!! 
I LOVE IT! Can you explain whatās happening here? seems like you replaced the entire print-bed, no?
Thank you and GREAT WORK!
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Please elaborate that! I planned to do this myseƶf as soon I receive another bed.
Awesome!
After 4 weeks of waiting I received my replacement bed. Unfortunately, itās not what I hoped for. My original one had 0.7 gap. With the aluminum tape leveling I got it to just 0.15 middle gap. This one has 0.35. Better than before for sure, but 0.35 is still a big gapā¦
I still canāt decide if itās worth spending 4 hours to replace my original heatbed with this one.
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Gents,
So the current situation is as follows:
- I had a banana bed
- they replaced my banana bed with an even more banana bed
- I asked for a normal bed, they asked me to spend 4 hours to install said new banana bed and āsend them the dataā. I refused, they agreed to send me a new bed. A normal bed.
- new bed arrived, and it is the absolute most bananaāed bed. I asked for a resolution, they said again to āinstall and send them the dataā as āfrom the pictures it seems within specā. They lied.
- I proposed a return and a refund. They refused as āit is outside of 14 daysā.
Nowā¦ I need to pull the nuclear option and file a dispute for the X1C combo as well as the three AMS units I purchased, as well as all the consumables.
So, there you go Bambu.
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I donāt know, I havenāt got Goodplate, I just used the same idea and made it myself from 3mm glass.
I donāt think so. I tried to print PLA (cool plate), ASA and PAHT-CF (engineering plate) on default profiles without any issues.
Yes, the glass is glued to the heatbed at 3 spots (both front corners and in the middle) using very small amount of silicone glue (pea-sized drop). Front corners just for fixation against lifting, the middle just to fill the gap, itās the spot with largest gap and I wanted the glass to be supported there.
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Now where and when we can get it? 
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it is physically not possible to do a complete flat bed with this kind of materials.
If you want a flat bed you have to go to class or aluminium, like voron.
All other beds from every manufacturer are not flat. (the manufacturers find a solution called bed mesh leveling) so they could offer other kind of beds not only class. or pure aluminium beds.
other thing is, with what temperature you measure this? you have to measure in hot conditions. because it expand and thrink, depends on temp.
my bed is not flat as well, but it doesnāt influence the results of the prints, so i donāt care. the bed leveling does a good job.
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Consider yourself lucky. There are definitely people (including me) who are not so lucky.
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I measure it at 25 degree room temperature. I agree that things will look different when heated to 110 or even 35 (cool plate). From my currently installed bed however, I have less of a dip when the bed is on room temperature than when itās heated to 60. Unless they changed the build materials I doubt this has changed.
Now, even if bed leveling actually works I have (had) issues with nozzle scratching the edges of the buildplate when it draws the starting sequence on the upper right corner. While you can actually print on this bed, bed leveling will not make your parts straight. Printing large functional parts on this bed isnāt exactly flowless.
Spending 4 hours to replace the heatbed with another heatbed with issues isnāt exactly how I want to spend my time. Not even talking about the risk to break something in the process.
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So I removed the bed (V3) without taking 3D printer apart (yes itās possible and actually easy). You just need to unscrew the frame (3 tramming nuts) + a few screws and disconnect a few connectors. Actually Iām surprised they make you to take the whole printer apart to replace it. And itās just about 2mm 3mm thick aluminum PCB used as a heater and put into plastic base. No surprise it warps. Also PCB is only about 247mm wide, and therefore edges of magnetic surface glued onto plastic base. Again no surprise I got edges lifting up because of this.
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The replacement bed comes with the whole frame. I am not entirely sure if you change it without the frame BL support will accept it. But I donāt even consider contacting them again - obviously, they wonāt solve the issue. In any case, Iāll try that since spending that much time (the standard procedure) just isnāt worth it, while I am almost sure it will actually be worse than my aluminum tape leveled bed.
I know that it comes as a whole assembly. Itās just that itās easier to remove the frame from a new replacement bed and put the bed on the old frame without taking the printer apart. It took me about 5-10 minutes to remove it even though Iāve never done it before and there are no instructions.
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Curious if that triangle shaped frame were to extend to all 4 corners of the base if it would provide adequate bracing to prevent the base warping issue. I also have a warped bed & have been following this thread. I dont see a point in contacting Bambu about it at this point as its clear they are still shipping warped beds. Thanks to all for your diy solutions.
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