- for me this looks more like a Z-hop
I second that.
You wonāt see any Z-axis movement on such a tiny model, no matter how screwed up your bed is.
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Are you serious? You see in the video how the leadscrew is turning, even before the Z-Hop. The quick turn is the Z-Hop. The slow turn is coming from ABL.
And yes, you will see movement on such a small print if the bed is badly warped.
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Sorry, but from this three second video I cannot tell Z-hop or other movement apart.
And I stil donāt believe that you will see any noticeable Z-axis movement when printing a 1-2cm large object on a warped bed.
@W.MFG If possible, please share a longer video pointing at the lower bearing without moving the camera.
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If you watch the video in large format you can see the slight movements.
But would not have thought that with a small part what is balanced
Well, on my side :
- my bed is really 100% flat (and iām lucky for thatā¦) and so are my prints
- however, i still see some Z-movements during my prints exactly like on this video (that means, bed going back and forth on Z axis and NOT related to a layer change)
So i would assume that these Z moves are not only happening because of compensation (as far as i can tell).
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If your bed is as flat as you say and you still have movement on Z, apart from Z-Hops, you should tram your bed: (forget about the screw position, only the distance to the nozzle matters)
They describe doing this visually nozzle/bed, use a piece of paper instead that you can feel the resistance.
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After a 3-4 weeks of having the p1p i cant print a 50x50x50 cube without warping. Filament is from bambulab, matte marine blue, on double pei plate with 0.2 standart profile. The pei i cleaned one day before the print with dish soap and the green side of dish pan for several minutes. After i let one minute under hot water for cleaning out the dish soap.
But what i found is the carved bed. In the first week it wasnāt like itās today. I havenāt measured it yet but when iām at home from business trip at the weekend i will.
Till last week the printer was fun but itās starting to be uncomfortable because i read in the other threads that this problem is not easy to solve by Bambulab and there is a lot of discussion to do.
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Seriously, it is super easy to see in this video that there is one z-hop (the fast and large movement). All the other movement is ABL and it is a LOT with such a coarse leadscrew and such a tiny print.
Bambu is sending me a new bed. Will report back.
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I could not properly measure yet because my ruler was not long enough, but I certainly also have a warped bed. If I see that some have a gap of >1mm, mine is probably not too bad.
I will not ask for a spare part now. I will wait until they got a quality control right. Is there any official statement what is acceptable for Bambulab?
From an engineering perspective I would say that the error must be certainly lower than the typical layer height, which would be 0.1mm!
Donāt know how the plate is manufactured. To have it perfectly flat (lets say within 0.02mm) you would probably need make it slightly thicker and then mill it!
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Apparently, you have to accept the slightly curved printing plates. After all, this is a (good-looking) consumer machine at a reasonable price considering the performance and features, and not a professional machine. I suspect that professional machines, where everything is correct and prints are true to size, cost many times more than the Bambu for a reason 
Nevertheless, I can understand the disappointment, since the purchase of such a device costs a (for private individuals) bar of money.
I donāt think anyone here is willing to accept a defect like this. We are waiting for a proper solution though.
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Oh my God. So this is why my prints keep detaching from the edges and causing layer shifts. I use this for business, to make a living, and it was a big investment. This is unacceptable for something of this price. X1C model.
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Possibly. But, prints can easily peel up when printing on a completely flat bed too.
Okay but if people are following manufacturer advice and using default slicer settings with manufacturer approved material and within operating conditions like room temp and humidity then itās not supposed to fail every time you print something large. Peeled off prints and layer shift are failures. I even use the Bambu Lab glue! I even bought the new liquid glue from Bambu Lab! I even use the Bambu Lab dessicant in the AMS and my filaments are always in the AMS.
So there is no user error. My bed surface is good and clean. I run all the calibrations for every print. I had to open a support ticket because after the latest firmware I got a message telling me to clean the rods. While doing the cleaning per the official Wiki page I noticed that my printer was missing screws at the back. Closer look revealed that the right aluminium cover (looking from the front) screws were not fully in. Then I noticed that the cover doesnāt get level like the left side one. So it seems that my printer frame itself is welded incorrectly as itās not square. Now I wonder if this + the warped bed is causing the issues. Thatās not why I spent a whole lot more money for this device.
I have an Anycubic Vyper that I tuned, modded and replaced firmware with Klipper. Itās definitely not fast like the X1C and canāt print hot materials like PA-CF but what it does print is good. So yes, I definitely expect perfection from the X1C as it has cost me 7x more and itās closed source so Bambu Lab can do all the optimizations themselves.
Thereās simply no excuse about user error when the printer is managed by Bambu Lab and all instructions followed. I want a working replacement, of the whole printer not just the bed, as the frame is not welded square. I filmed the whole issue and sent it with my support ticket, no response yet and itās been a week. I am also a YouTuber with 38k subscribers as Iām no longer that active and trust me, unlike all the others Iāll tell the truth about the printer and the service as Iāll definitely make a video to level all the positives. Itās inexcusable for prints to fail like that. My prints always start detaching when theyāre like halfway done wasting all the plastic. I donāt grow money on trees!
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Unfortunately, thatās not how 3D printing works. There are endless combinations of temperatures, slicer settings, filaments, models, etc. that could never result in a happy ending for everyone. Youāll need to tune everything for each model you print until you achieve the desired result. At that point, you should be able to see consistent results for that specific model and filament. However, if you switch to a different filament or make changes to your model (for example), then you might need to do some additional tuning/testing until you achieve the desired result again.
The fact that a print fails does not instantly mean you have a defective machine. Your machine could be defective though.
If you need help with a specific model, try creating a new thread with very detailed information about the issues youāre facing with that model. Iām sure others here will be able to offer some helpful suggestions.
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Thatās patronizing and defensive.
Actually in a controlled environment you donāt get failures for flat objects like youāre implying happens all the time.
If youāre going to print a simple cube thatās 100x100x100 and it keeps peeling then the printer is the problem.
Iām not a novice, I know what Iām doing.
The printer is the issue, itās warped. In my case not only the bed but the frame itself.
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I didnāt mean to imply that happens all of the time. However, I did say it can happen on non-defective machines.
You sound like a novice. The amount of money you spend on a printer does not guarantee a great result every time. You always have to put in the work.
That definitely does not mean the printer is the problem. It could be the problem ā as could also many other things.
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The poster above is indeed patronizing and making assumptions that you have no idea what it is that you are doing.
The cognitive dissonance is mindblowing here; a bent bed means that your prints will never be straight. There is no magical 3D printing expertise or ABL or software update that will save your print from being bent and out of shape. Ergo, there is a huge probability that your bent bed may be the cause of your prints not sticking to the edges.
I started this thread and Bambu has agreed to send me a second bed. The issue now is that even the replacement beds people are receiving are bent.
Peter, definitely do a video on this. Check out the FB forums as well. The banana bed issue is not being publicly acknowledged by BL and they are sending out the same defective beds as replacements. (Full disclosure: I have not received my replacement bed yet but every post regarding the replacements I have seen says that the replacements are bent as well.
If you need anything from me, let me know. Happy to work with you, as long as I can remain anonymous.
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Hereās a fact: I have hands-on time with my printer, you donāt. You also donāt know anything about my level of knowledge.
If I sound like a novice then you sound like a shill.
You havenāt mentioned what the numerous kinds of problem it could be.
Not going to engage further with you. Itās the printer, I know better about my device than a stranger that doesnāt have their hands on it. While spending money doesnāt guarantee quality, under UK law the more costly the device the longer itās supposed to last, to conform to the description of āfit for purposeā, for up to 6 years, regardless of manufacturer warranty periods. Itās also unprofessional of BL to take over a week to even acknowledge the support ticket.
Go shill sāmore, looks like you have fun doing it.
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