But keep in mind. If you “flaten” the bed with resin, you will never be able again to remove the bed from the printer. Because you cant unscrew the bed from the carrier arm (or how the construction under the bed is called)
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How about thermal conductivity of Resin?
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Can’t beat an ergo.
Always wanted one of those.
In theory that might work. An issue I see is that usually in order to get the tool cast resin to a 150C temp resistance, you have to post cure it in an oven, which could cause the original part to warp. Additionally, resin tends to shrink a certain percentage as it off gasses and cures, so it’s not always 100% flat just from self leveling. How much it shrinks will depend on the type.
Depends on the type. There are some aluminum filled ones that have good thermal conductivity. I used to use it for making molds with built in heating elements and it worked very well.
Just had replacement bed delivered.
It looks visibly warped along the front edge and is a V2.
Am sure my printer has a V3 fitted.
Printer was delivered mid Feb.
Grrrrrr.
Haven’t you heard? “It’s within spec” 
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Can anybody tell me what they say they would deliver? Some tangible specs for the flatness?
They keep their mesh data secret. They lied to everyone that they are “working on QC” and continued to send the same Banana Beds.
The strategy is simple: reset market expectations and gaslight customers who are aware of this issue. “Look! We fixed it! Come onnn… just trust me, bro!”
Well my original bed is a V2 after all so that’s something.
Time to make the GoodPlate a permanent fixture and keep the new bed as a spare.
TBH I have not taken the GoodPlate out of the printer for the last 20 odd prints.
Think what I am going to do is put a layer of thin grease proof paper in the centre area of the heatbed. A splodge of white exhaust paste on top of that then another layer of paper then GoodPlate.
That white exhaust paste can be watered down to make it quite runny.
I find the side clips incredibly annoying; in my case, despite being made out of ABS and reasonably tight, the plate still slips. Also now that the bed is raised above the guiding clips, putting the plate on is such a trial and error pain.
Have you figured out a solution to these issues? Or have you encountered them yourself?
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I’m waiting for my glass to come in. But my idea was to model up and print some guides that adhere to the edge of the current bed as new guides. I dunno if I’ll screw them down or use adhesive or velcro yet. My plan is to keep the magnetic layer off the bambu bed and put the glass right on it with maybe a dab of some adhesive at the outer edge in a few places.
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Printed some cf nylon ones that have upper faces tapered towards the middle of the bed. Only encroach about 3mm onto the PEI sheet. Only use 2 clips, one each side. Takes seconds to take off and on. Do some experimenting.
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Here you go.
These are upside down just to confuse you. These are to use with the GoodPlate.
Never had the sheet wander about yet.
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Well, today I bought a mirror at a local store 250mmx250mm and 3mm thickness, put it onto the top of the magnetic sticker and perform a full bed test print of one layer, the bed is perfectly flat.
The ABL is still used (I can see the ABL widget move)but only because all Z lead screw are all linked together and I need to a to manual adjustment : Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Temperature of the printed layer was homogeneous at 54°C +/- 2°C (with a bed temperature set to 60°C).
I think that if you want to avoid you headheach just go to buy à 5$ mirror (cut to size at the store, cut included in price)
I have ordered a new magnetic sticker that I should receive tomorrow and I will try :
- Magnetic Sticker sticked to mirror
- Mirror sticked to original aluminium (maybe with some high temp silicone mastic, not yet sure of what I am gonna use)
EDIT: for more informations :
- original Sticker weight : 390g
- mirror weight : 420g
so the only weight added will be the new sticker on the top of the mirror
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Yeah that’s a nice option.
But one question to BambuLab here, why not cnc a new aluminium plate with 3mm step to cover the whole plastic. It’s a good way and a easy solution?
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The aluminum plate bolts to the steel triangle at 2 points with the plastic thinly between. The plastic is just a cover to protect the electronics underneath. Either way it needs some cover to protect from electrical shocks/sparks whatever.
After having adjusted the three points of the bed manually with the Bambulab process (well using a paper as always, doing it only with eyes is pretty hard on a mirror), the ABL widget is now nearly not moving more than 1mm (approx 100µm) all over the bed.
Even when going from one side to another, ABL widget not moving, the worst seems to be the back right corner wich seems to be 100µm higher than the three other corners, this cannot be fixed by the manual bed levelling process, but at some point, not sure it have any interrest to try getting something better.
Will give some more information, pictures, details, etc… tomorrow when I will have finished and tested everything
Could you not magnetise the mirror to the original bed? Not sure why everyone seems to be preferring to use blobs of silicone which will be a chunky insulating layer and a pain to remove, when the bed is already designed to be magnetic…