This how the bambu spring steel plate look like without the coolplate coating
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You mean engineering plate coating? Cool plate is just a sticker which you can peel off.
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No. Coolplate. The Creality sticker I use, dont stick on the coolplate coating when it get hot. So I sanded the coating down to the steel. The Engineering side is on the back side.
BTW - the sticker on the cool plate does not stick very well too. You can remove it without any damage 
LOL, Engineering plate has the same grey coating on both sides and cool plate is just a sticker you can peel off. Hot plate for example is the same Engineering plate but with different sticker. You destroyed one side of Engineering plate and wasted time and effort for nothing.
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It doesnt matter which side I sanded. I dont need the stupid sticker which only work with gluestick.
Should I use a steel plate with the stickers on both sides? LOL to you my dude. And if you want use your own sticker, like I do, it wont stick on higher temps on the stock bambu coating - simple as it is.
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Cool plate works perfectly without glue. At least for me printing pla. 50c first layer, next layer 45c. Aux fan off. Standard speed. Never used glue stick, never got warping or other defects. Easy to remove after cooldown.
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Also you made a stupid effort of cutting out sticker on nozzle wipe area which must remain uncovered.
What? Do mean the wipe are at the back? It doesnât matter. PEI sheet has the coating at that area and the nozzle will wipe it down over time. And besides, the nozzle would be in the air because a Z measurement is made before wiping.
It will rip the sticker apart after some time and you will have dangling mess. Also it probably prevents proper nozzle wiping before bed leveling. Look on original cool plate sticker, it does not extend to that area.
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I know. But the original cool plate sticker is much much thinner than the Creality one 
Iâm not new to 3D printing. I know what I do 
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My generic gold pei plate extends over to the nozzle wipe area. It wore through it pretty quick. I wouldnât worry about it.
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Powder coating is different from a sticker. Original engineering plate wears through the powder coating too.
Are there some news about the measurements of the bed and/or aluminium plate?
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Thanks for the answer.
I am still learning to use CAD myself and so I would be happy if you could possibly provide the guides when they are ready. I donât know where and how to start to create them myself 
Would it be impertinent to ask if it would then be possible to get a guide of the same size for the standard bambulab print surfaces and not only for the 260 mm version?
I finally got around to trying a borosilicate glass sheet I got from McMaster-Carr:
It was a quick test with very little prep beyond cleaning the glass with IPA and adding some Elmerâs glue stick, and then putting 4 âblobsâ of the glue stick on the corners of my Bambu Engineering plate and resting the glass sheet in place. I heated the bed to 60C and let it sit for about 30 mins, and the the plate seemed pretty securely set in place. I printed the top section of the Hovalin violin body in Bambu black PLA, and it came out perfectly. You can see of the corner glue stick blobs in this photo.
Iâm not saying this is anything new, but itâs another way to get a flat print without a lot of extra effort. And the piece of borosilicate glass from McMaster at 10" x 10" x 3/16" thick fits perfectly on the existing bed or build sheet.
My replacement head bed just got here yesterday, so once I get back from vacation Iâm gonna break that out and see how it looks. I may try integrating a 1/4" thick piece of ALI14 cast aluminum tool plate into that bed to see how it works out.
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The part has arrived, itâs the same curve as whatâs in it, why canât a normal part be produced?.. I still canât print a normal part with it, which wonât be banana-shaped, but straight!The one I repaired with underlay is straighter than this!
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I am waiting for my second replacement Heatbed. If that is also bent I will ask Bambu for a new magnetic Sticker and will repair it myself.
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Also received the beds today⌠Both are more than 1mm bent. Iâm so annoyed that I donât even want to make pictures and get in contact with the supportâŚ.
I will take one apart and replace the buildplate with an 8mm aluminium plate. Magnet sheets I habe laying around anyway.
Iâm glad I ordered two MK4âs Kits. 
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Previously I also had a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and was quite satisfied. Had in the meantime also considered going back to the MK4.
But since I got my heating bed now carefully in many small steps almost flat (0.05mm tolerance, feeler gauge), I would first wait what Prusa brings out in the next 1-2 years (or Bambu Lab).
With the Prusa MK4 I feel light years behind compared to now - despite its possible advantages. The MK4 seems to me like a printer that was introduced less because of innovation, but rather out of necessity 
Because actually I am still a Prusa fan.
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Ich would like to have the original Bambu Lab magnetic Sticker.