In the slicer go to Printer setting → Machine G-code → Machine start G-Code
In there scroll down to bed leveling.
Look for:
G29 A X{first_layer_print_min[0]} Y{first_layer_print_min[1]} I{first_layer_print_size[0]} J{first_layer_print_size[1]}
Remove the ‘A’.
Was somewhere here in the forum, that someone asked and Bambu answered.
Without the ‘A’ the printer will directly go to 36-point mesh bed leveling.
3 Likes
May i ask you if you have the hooks to align the Build plate as printable stl from somewhere, or do you create them your self? I have the same problem and getting some Z Home errors due to misalignment.
Hello, not yet, I did not design them, but they will be really simple and will have to be glue, they would require PACF to resist heat of the bed, I will do that probably this next WE.
Note: I want them to also enable 260x260 beds
1 Like
You mean engineering plate coating? Cool plate is just a sticker which you can peel off.
1 Like
No. Coolplate. The Creality sticker I use, dont stick on the coolplate coating when it get hot. So I sanded the coating down to the steel. The Engineering side is on the back side.
BTW - the sticker on the cool plate does not stick very well too. You can remove it without any damage 
LOL, Engineering plate has the same grey coating on both sides and cool plate is just a sticker you can peel off. Hot plate for example is the same Engineering plate but with different sticker. You destroyed one side of Engineering plate and wasted time and effort for nothing.
2 Likes
It doesnt matter which side I sanded. I dont need the stupid sticker which only work with gluestick.
Should I use a steel plate with the stickers on both sides? LOL to you my dude. And if you want use your own sticker, like I do, it wont stick on higher temps on the stock bambu coating - simple as it is.
1 Like
Cool plate works perfectly without glue. At least for me printing pla. 50c first layer, next layer 45c. Aux fan off. Standard speed. Never used glue stick, never got warping or other defects. Easy to remove after cooldown.
1 Like
Also you made a stupid effort of cutting out sticker on nozzle wipe area which must remain uncovered.
What? Do mean the wipe are at the back? It doesn’t matter. PEI sheet has the coating at that area and the nozzle will wipe it down over time. And besides, the nozzle would be in the air because a Z measurement is made before wiping.
It will rip the sticker apart after some time and you will have dangling mess. Also it probably prevents proper nozzle wiping before bed leveling. Look on original cool plate sticker, it does not extend to that area.
1 Like
I know. But the original cool plate sticker is much much thinner than the Creality one 
I’m not new to 3D printing. I know what I do 
1 Like
My generic gold pei plate extends over to the nozzle wipe area. It wore through it pretty quick. I wouldn’t worry about it.
1 Like
Powder coating is different from a sticker. Original engineering plate wears through the powder coating too.
Are there some news about the measurements of the bed and/or aluminium plate?
1 Like
Thanks for the answer.
I am still learning to use CAD myself and so I would be happy if you could possibly provide the guides when they are ready. I don’t know where and how to start to create them myself 
Would it be impertinent to ask if it would then be possible to get a guide of the same size for the standard bambulab print surfaces and not only for the 260 mm version?
I finally got around to trying a borosilicate glass sheet I got from McMaster-Carr:
It was a quick test with very little prep beyond cleaning the glass with IPA and adding some Elmer’s glue stick, and then putting 4 “blobs” of the glue stick on the corners of my Bambu Engineering plate and resting the glass sheet in place. I heated the bed to 60C and let it sit for about 30 mins, and the the plate seemed pretty securely set in place. I printed the top section of the Hovalin violin body in Bambu black PLA, and it came out perfectly. You can see of the corner glue stick blobs in this photo.
I’m not saying this is anything new, but it’s another way to get a flat print without a lot of extra effort. And the piece of borosilicate glass from McMaster at 10" x 10" x 3/16" thick fits perfectly on the existing bed or build sheet.
My replacement head bed just got here yesterday, so once I get back from vacation I’m gonna break that out and see how it looks. I may try integrating a 1/4" thick piece of ALI14 cast aluminum tool plate into that bed to see how it works out.
3 Likes
The part has arrived, it’s the same curve as what’s in it, why can’t a normal part be produced?.. I still can’t print a normal part with it, which won’t be banana-shaped, but straight!The one I repaired with underlay is straighter than this!
2 Likes
I am waiting for my second replacement Heatbed. If that is also bent I will ask Bambu for a new magnetic Sticker and will repair it myself.
1 Like