Yes I did. But a cutting knife was not necessary since I did not need to cut the silicone!
Actually a butter knife or or similar non sharp thin object (for instance a ruler if it fits into the gap between the glass and heatbed) would be sufficient.
If you heated it to 100 it becomes easy to pull it off. The silicone still sticks to the glass but no remainings on heatbed.
Cheers
I sense a possible error code in my future lol
Iām also having a friend of mine machine some aluminum plates for another bed idea Iām building and heās doing one of them 235x235 (the others are 180x180 for a different project)
Should be lighter but I got that ball rolling before reading that aluminum warps when heated
Either way if this idea doesnāt work all of the parts still coincide with my other bed project
If non of my ideas work thats ok, its fun trying 
Yep!
I didnāt think Iād have the pleasure of much tinkering with the X1C. Itās 3D printing, I should have known better, LOL!
Iām waiting for you to be a guinea pig for this Ferrous / Glass / Magnetic sandwich. I followed your link for the Amazon - Self Adhesive Rubber Steel Ferrite Ferrous Sheet, but found itās the UK site. I couldnāt find anything similar on US Amazon. I did a thorough Google search and found very little here. 
Well, there was one roll, but I thought $148 USD was a bit much for this project ā¦ My Wife wasnāt amused. Did find a single 8x11 inch (203x279mm) sheet for < $10, so thereās hope.
I have several 12x12 inch (304mm) mirror tiles that worked well on other printers so I may just try one of those with some clips to start.
EDIT:
Thatās really not an issue. Thereās a lot of āscientificā discussions that rely on ālogicā and partial understandings of tons of subjects like this. Like a lot of stuff on Social Media itās primary ingredient is often BS.
Real world, the amount of movement of the aluminum plate at these sizes and temps is minuscule. The alum/plastic interface is another issue.
Yup
Iām in Canada and had to order through Amazon UK
Couldnāt find what I was looking for in Canada or the U.S. so I did a global search
Everything that was closer is either too thick or too expensive for possible failure and Iām trying to provide a cheap sensible solution even though Iām neither sensible or cheap lol
Eh? What was that you said? (Ducks thrown shoe)
My igloo is top notch ya hoser lol
This is one very long post to read 
My bed is still level 
itās a V2 but I know it will not last has anyone done a cad drawing of the old bed yet ?
I have had Mandala Rose Works make me custom bed plates for my Raise3d printers all I did was send him my cad step file of how I wanted it made and they came out perfect.
This can be a place we can all order custom Bambu bed plates from or mod the heater pad or even mod the beds plastic frame design.
Maybe Matt has some cad drawings I seen he was looking for a warped bed from someone.
Are the beds still gold-plated or why are they so expensive?
Larger and more precise version :
https://www.printables.com/fr/model/462323-bambulab-abl-widget-v2-larger-version-graduation-1
After some back and forth with Bambu I finally received a replacement bed. The new bed was better but still had significant warp in one axis. While waiting for Bambu (or someone else) to come up with a permanent solution to these warped beds, I came up with this expedient. Itās a modification of the Goodplate solution. This is a 10" square of 1/8" thick Pyrex glass glued onto a Bambu flex-plate with the sticker removed. A new PLA cool plate sticker is then applied to the top of the glass. You can see the results in the third pic. The grey piece was printed on the glass, the black piece on the original print bed. Iāve only done a couple of prints on this solution but so far, the results are much improved. I only print PLA so I canāt comment how well this solution will work on higher temp material. The glass was procured from McMaster.com. The glue is E6000 adhesive (glue at corners and midpoints on each side). This solution only subtracts 3.1mm from the Z axis. The bed is still removable but since itās now rigid, it can be a pain to remove prints.
Hope this helps others out.
Iāve just got tracking number for my replacement bed. Took 7 weeks. Fingers crossed. 
Print an adapter ? like a flat cylinder of 6mm diameter and about 3mm thick and glue it to the metal leadscrew, no ?
You can use Bambu Studio primitives to do that, you donāt even need modelisation software :
EDIT: when I said āGlue itā I talk about a point of glue but no more
I have noticed something interesting today, about the Textured plate (did not try the others), it tends to bumb itself one side or another when you handle it on yours hands (by bending it just a little bit, it is bumbing from one side to another), but when it is warmer (I tried it at 110Ā°c) it does it a lot more.
So basically I found that my bed may be more or less warping depending on the plate I use and temperatue.
The textured plate seems to deform a lot with temperature, so no matter how the bed is flat underside if the PEI over is bending like a banana and the magnet is not enought stiff to compensate.
Are you sure it is the temp that is bending the plate? With it being freefloating on the magnetic surface, temp deformation should only be minimal and can only occure from different temps by underside and upper side. But the plate is rather thin, so the temp difference shouldnāt be huge.
Maybe it is only mine, but I got a GIANTARM one that does not do that.
Try to put the Textured plate onto the bed at 110Ā°c for 5 minutes, get it ( yes it is a little hot:) ) and try to bend it just a little from one side to another, it will bump suddently from one side to another.
Cool it under water and try again to bend one side or another, the bumping is a lot lot lower when cool.
Also I can confirm the bed levelling (ABL) give a lot more flat results with the ācool plateā or with the Textured plate at a lower temperature.
EDIT: What I want to point out is that with Textured plate at high temperature, there are some pretty strong forces that appear and try to keep it bends one side or another
Well, today I decided to look a bit further on how bed was madeā¦
First, never stick a mirror on the aluminium plate with 3M 468 MP, this is basically strong as the hell.
It took me two hours to remove the mirror, breaking it was even nearly impossible as it is stiffed by it stick to the aluminium, heating does not help too, I used bed at 110Ā°c plus a heat gun 600Ā°c and nada, nothingā¦
I ended by using thermal shocks to break it (hammer was not breaking it, just amazing !!!), using ice & water and the heat gun, I finally manage to make little pieces of few centimeters that I was able to remove one by one.
Do not use 3M 468 MP, if you plan to remove the mirror one day !
Then I decided to unmount the bed but without unassemble the back side, I did it carefully for cables.
And I was really surprised to see that by simply loosing its scrrews it become a lot more flat.
Well thatās was my today story that I wanted to shareā¦
Now I think I will try another solution, let see how it goes.
Side note : mirror was working very well, I was just unhappy with its look
Yes, I noticed that few weeks ago when I removed my original bed. It turned out to be about 0.1mm unflat after unscrewing.
Huh. Mine is 1.44mm, hadnāt even considered unscrewing it. The replacement is arriving on Friday, so Iāll give this a try then.
