I didn’t think I’d have the pleasure of much tinkering with the X1C. It’s 3D printing, I should have known better, LOL!
I’m waiting for you to be a guinea pig for this Ferrous / Glass / Magnetic sandwich. I followed your link for the Amazon - Self Adhesive Rubber Steel Ferrite Ferrous Sheet, but found it’s the UK site. I couldn’t find anything similar on US Amazon. I did a thorough Google search and found very little here.
Well, there was one roll, but I thought $148 USD was a bit much for this project … My Wife wasn’t amused. Did find a single 8x11 inch (203x279mm) sheet for < $10, so there’s hope.
I have several 12x12 inch (304mm) mirror tiles that worked well on other printers so I may just try one of those with some clips to start.
EDIT:
That’s really not an issue. There’s a lot of “scientific” discussions that rely on “logic” and partial understandings of tons of subjects like this. Like a lot of stuff on Social Media it’s primary ingredient is often BS.
Real world, the amount of movement of the aluminum plate at these sizes and temps is minuscule. The alum/plastic interface is another issue.
Couldn’t find what I was looking for in Canada or the U.S. so I did a global search
Everything that was closer is either too thick or too expensive for possible failure and I’m trying to provide a cheap sensible solution even though I’m neither sensible or cheap lol
My bed is still level it’s a V2 but I know it will not last has anyone done a cad drawing of the old bed yet ?
I have had Mandala Rose Works make me custom bed plates for my Raise3d printers all I did was send him my cad step file of how I wanted it made and they came out perfect.
This can be a place we can all order custom Bambu bed plates from or mod the heater pad or even mod the beds plastic frame design.
After some back and forth with Bambu I finally received a replacement bed. The new bed was better but still had significant warp in one axis. While waiting for Bambu (or someone else) to come up with a permanent solution to these warped beds, I came up with this expedient. It’s a modification of the Goodplate solution. This is a 10" square of 1/8" thick Pyrex glass glued onto a Bambu flex-plate with the sticker removed. A new PLA cool plate sticker is then applied to the top of the glass. You can see the results in the third pic. The grey piece was printed on the glass, the black piece on the original print bed. I’ve only done a couple of prints on this solution but so far, the results are much improved. I only print PLA so I can’t comment how well this solution will work on higher temp material. The glass was procured from McMaster.com. The glue is E6000 adhesive (glue at corners and midpoints on each side). This solution only subtracts 3.1mm from the Z axis. The bed is still removable but since it’s now rigid, it can be a pain to remove prints.
I have noticed something interesting today, about the Textured plate (did not try the others), it tends to bumb itself one side or another when you handle it on yours hands (by bending it just a little bit, it is bumbing from one side to another), but when it is warmer (I tried it at 110°c) it does it a lot more.
So basically I found that my bed may be more or less warping depending on the plate I use and temperatue.
The textured plate seems to deform a lot with temperature, so no matter how the bed is flat underside if the PEI over is bending like a banana and the magnet is not enought stiff to compensate.
Are you sure it is the temp that is bending the plate? With it being freefloating on the magnetic surface, temp deformation should only be minimal and can only occure from different temps by underside and upper side. But the plate is rather thin, so the temp difference shouldn’t be huge.
Maybe it is only mine, but I got a GIANTARM one that does not do that.
Try to put the Textured plate onto the bed at 110°c for 5 minutes, get it ( yes it is a little hot:) ) and try to bend it just a little from one side to another, it will bump suddently from one side to another.
Cool it under water and try again to bend one side or another, the bumping is a lot lot lower when cool.
Also I can confirm the bed levelling (ABL) give a lot more flat results with the “cool plate” or with the Textured plate at a lower temperature.
EDIT: What I want to point out is that with Textured plate at high temperature, there are some pretty strong forces that appear and try to keep it bends one side or another
Well, today I decided to look a bit further on how bed was made…
First, never stick a mirror on the aluminium plate with 3M 468 MP, this is basically strong as the hell.
It took me two hours to remove the mirror, breaking it was even nearly impossible as it is stiffed by it stick to the aluminium, heating does not help too, I used bed at 110°c plus a heat gun 600°c and nada, nothing…
I ended by using thermal shocks to break it (hammer was not breaking it, just amazing !!!), using ice & water and the heat gun, I finally manage to make little pieces of few centimeters that I was able to remove one by one.
Do not use 3M 468 MP, if you plan to remove the mirror one day !
Then I decided to unmount the bed but without unassemble the back side, I did it carefully for cables.
And I was really surprised to see that by simply loosing its scrrews it become a lot more flat.
Well that’s was my today story that I wanted to share…
Now I think I will try another solution, let see how it goes.
Side note : mirror was working very well, I was just unhappy with its look
So I’ve been trying a bunch of different solutions for my bed, attempting to eliminate the potential-ness of a warped bed. Especially if it ‘levels out’ while heated.
I originally printed with PETG, but to confirm that it was the bed, I switched to PLA Pro (Polymaker) and did a bunch of larger prints (10-15 or so, two rolls worth) with varying bed adhesion and ‘band-aid’ solutions. I took one of my larger prints that has been warped before, cut it down to 20mm (so 100 layers), to test these solutions futher. Every single one of them bowed exactly the same.
I then realized that every single print I’ve either run over night, or waited until the bed completely cooled. Today I took the same 100 layer object, and within seconds of the printer ‘finishing’ I carefully removed the magnetic bed, and ‘popped’ the print off, and immediately measured its flatness with the same straight edge ruler. It was ‘perfectly’ flat in every axis, and thus my realization earlier today came to fruition. If my bed is warped while cooled, and I let the printer cool down completely, (running over night generally, or preoccupied when it finishes) the bow is being added AFTER the fact its completed the print. In fact, I’ve never paid much attention to it, but while the printer was cooling tonight after this test, I heard the bed ‘creak’ almost as if it was ‘re-bowing’
While this isn’t conclusive, I plan on running a longer print tomorrow evening, and testing it again immediately after printer, and see if I get the same results, at which time I’ll update with my findings.
This also doesn’t make it any better that the bed is still warped.
That right there may be the ticket if you can access the screws without removing the OEM BL sticker on the aluminum. Shim between the aluminum and the base at the screws, or just remove the screws, add some thread sealant (or blue locktite) to the screw and then insert the screw and tighten until the deviation starts. IIRC there is another bed - Voron maybe that this is the procedure for getting the bed flat by adjusting the mounting screws.
I know there are pictures in this mile long thread of the build plate but I don’t have time in the mornings to research it.
it’s a V2 but I know it will not last has anyone done a cad drawing of the old bed yet ?
