Just an update on the “Bambu Lab P1P/X1C Warped Bed Correction Plate” I’ve been making for my farm machines. I received a second prototype of the design that further refines the final mass, thickness, and magnet positions. With the changes, I was able to do more testing, this time across the X1C’s. I made several full sheet first layer prints, both with and without bed leveling applied - the results are encouraging. Attached is a shot of the new plate, removed from the machine, holding a generic textured pei sheet. What follows is a comparison of first layer prints exposing problem areas on the uncorrected bed (print on left) and with the correction bed installed (print on right). Again the Bambu ABL does a pretty good job of making a solid first layer, but the print is of course warped regardless. What is interesting is turning off ABL for the prints you can quickly identify the cratered areas of the OE bed and see the results of actually having a flat build surface (using the aluminum correction plate). Again… these full sheet prints were made with the bed properly trammed and ABL turned off, just to highlight the corrective action of the aluminum plate. You’ll notice on the uncorrected bed, any craters in the OE bed, show up as separations in the first layer sheet. Any significant hills show up as scuffing/snagging. The difference is as expected.
That was never a problem:
i have asked support , they won’t ship only the sticker. they refuse, so you need to buy another one
Has anyone measured the resistance of the bed heater when they’ve had the plate removed? I’m just curious as to what the power rating of the heat bed is. I’m not being lazy, I’m out of town and cannot measure mine 
You have now put an additional aluminum plate on the original bed? If yes, how thick is this plate?
Send one so I can machine a new bed and send you back a replacement super flat machined bed.
This is not a good way to measure the gap, and you can clearly see as much in these photos.
The gap is only at the light source. You’ve got light bouncing and reflecting off the print bed (as evidenced here).
Because of this light refraction, the gap appears above the ruler’s edge and in the ruler’s markings…
So either the ruler isn’t straight to begin with (which doesn’t appear to be the case) or the refracted light is causing the gap to appear much, much larger than it actually is. Not to mention, you’re doing this on a cold, uninstalled bed, which isn’t going to yield accurate results either.
Only way to tell if the bed is truly flat or not is with a straight edge and feeler gauges or a dial indicator on an installed bed at minimum heat (until Bambu Lab lets us have the bed mesh data and who knows if they ever will).
Hey @Jrock ! What was the items you ordered? Care to post a link, he asked nicely … 
You, Sir, are committed. I love it!
My Wife and I have a thing we say to each other at times - DWAB (pronounced ‘dwwaaabbb’) - Dog With A Bone, whenever one of us latches onto a problem and insists on wrestling it the ground no matter how long a fight!
So, said with affection, you are a DWAB! 
I’ll post up the links after work
My office isn’t as clean as most and my jobs just keep stacking up
Give me a bit and I’ll hook you up
LOL! And I certainly have no plans to show my office!! 
Thanks Bud! I’m in no hurry. Have a good day!
Please let us know when these plates will be available for purchase.
That is not really a good way to measure it. Even a tiny imperfection on one side will make it look completely off along the entire length if you put the fit on the far edge. Print two pieces at the same place and put the middle (or edges if it is bent the other way around) against each other.
Hey friends!
Quick update: I needed to “unglue” the silicone glued GoodPlate to test a new glass supplier. I heated the bed to 100°C (and waited 20 minutes) and could easily remove the plate with a card board cutter knive even without damaging the glass.
Just to let you know … if you did not glue your glass bed because “it is permanent”. It is not permanent and can be undone if needed very easily.
Best Regards
Works as expected. 
Here’s the links to the magnetic sheets and ferrous sheets I have on route
I went with 255x255 for the magnetic sheet and will trim the ferrous sheet to size
Top plate will just be glass with another magnetic sheet on top so I can just remove my regular flexible build plate
I’m not sure how strong the magnetism will be or if heat will affect its strength in the long run but there’s only one way to find out lol
C$ 2.10 54%OFF | 3D Printer Magnetic Base 1.2mm Thickness Magnetic Sticker Magnetic Build Plate Tape For 3D Printer Platform Bed Ender 3 KP3S
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msk5sNE
Check this out!
Self Adhesive Rubber Steel Ferrite Ferrous Sheet 0.5mm/Roll Magnetic Movement Tray (1 x Roll (620 x 420mm)) https://amzn.eu/d/4k4nJwr
I keep editing this response because my brain is trying to do 4 things at once lol
Sorry about that, all the info from what I ordered is correct and I fixed all my spelling errors
I’m 100% a Grammar Nazi lol
Thank you for the links.
How do you build the plate?
Maybe this?
Aliexpress magnetic sheet
————
Glass
————
Amazon ferrite sheet
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Heatbed
Thank you
Did you slide the knife between the GoodPlate and the HeatedBed surface?
Was it difficult to remove the silicone from the surface of the heatedbed?
Thanks
I’m still waiting for everything to arrive
As for the installation there is absolutely nothing to remove
All I’m doing is taking a glass plate and applying the 2 different decals to each side
The glass plate will stick to the original print bed magnetically as one side has the ferrous decal which is basically iron imbeded in the decal making it attract to the original magnet on the bed
The other side of the glass plate will have a magnetic sheet stick to it which will attract the original removable/flexible build plate
So essentially everything will be held in place using the magnetic sheets
I guess once everything arrives it will be easier to explain with pictures but the idea is to not modify any of the original parts on the printer, just a flat surface that is held in place via magnetism, nothing permanent or messy and completely easily removable with no tools or mess
FYI
I had a new thinner magnetic sticker on the heatbed, then a thin spring steel plate on the mirror (to remove the mirror). On top of the mirror another magnetic sticker to hold the stock print plate. Warped bed :( seems like a common QC issue - #992 by cl33
This combination was too heavy and the printer throw some errors when he home Z. (Error Code 0300 0A000 0001 0001 "The sensitivity of heatbed force sensor 1/2/3 is to high)
Heavy bed is certainly not good for mechanics. However if you’re somewhat proficient in electronics, sensor sensitivity can be easily reduced by changing a single SMT resistor in LM321 op amp feedback loop on 3 sensor boards which are located under the bed.