I think I earned myself a spot in the warped bed community. Seeing all the troubles you guys have getting your warped bed replaced, I’d like to ask a few questions if you’re kind enough to reply to those.
From left to right, and considering leads screws have a 8mm pitch, I can see the ABL trying to compensate around 1/8 of a turn very close to the edges. I can infer this translates to roughly 1 mm. Moreover, I can see that my prints are warped ; I’m going to print with ASA and this will cause an issue.
Should I try to open a ticket and get a replacement bed, or is the game not worth the candle as I may get a warped bed as well, and it will only get here in a few weeks? I have a V3 heatbed.
In the meantime, I’d like to go the “tape” way. Has anyone wrote a gcode to facilitate putting down tape and checking the results quickly? Do you have advices on this procedure? Any brands someone would like to recommend?
Any other alternatives?
I’d like to avoid goodplate as it’s causing the heatbed sensors to “overload” as some people have experienced.
We all know you are just here for further hating and griping, but do not use to blunt lies. Many people have resonably straight beds, me included. My replacement one was below 0.05mm warped.
Is it the bed, or your print warped when it cooled down?
Large prints of certain materials will certainly warp and pull up in the corners. Only way to verify is a straight edge and feeler gauges (or coins if that is the case) with the bed at operating temp to tell if it’s warped.
One wonders how many people have warped / heat shrinkage prints and think it’s the bed.
That looks far more like a part warping off during printing rather than a bed that’s so significantly warped. Especially as the ABL routine is not very large, so you’d only have a couple of points within that area and if the deviation was so significant it would seem unlikely that it would be able to account for it.
Presuming you’ve sent Bambu the logs for them to state that, they’ll be able to see the offset recorded by the ABL routine and based on other people getting new beds for much smaller deviations, one presumes yours is also small.
The best way to determine your bed warp is with a steel rule across it.
I actually trammed the bed prior to this, and to my understanding, it doesn’t make the bed flat per say, but rather parallel to the gantry right? It’s the whole 3 points define a plane geometry thingy, no?
If you purchased a new Ford and it chucked a rod out after a week how would you feel if Ford sent you a new rod and said, sorry about that.
Here you go.
In Bambu’s case they aren’t even saying sorry but doubling down with “it’s within spec” and still running people through a BananaBed lottery. Yet the simps can’t wait to bend over to defend them.
Now it’s upon the consumer to sort out this design shortcoming.
One thing I noticed in some of these posts is that there is curling in the corners of their print. Please make sure that you monitor your print as it is going. I have been printing with ASA and tried to make a very big full plate print 1cm x 20 cm x 20 cm and the material started contracting while stuck to the build plate, curling the build plate. The plate is not warped for me, as much as the print was.
I think this is part of the problem on everyone’s side. Bambu, and others may assume, its a curling print and owners will assume its a warped bed (especially with how vocal this thread is). It makes the whole situation a little bit more difficult, I know for myself, I thought for a lot of prints, it was warping, tried everything, but when any other printer I own prints it ‘fine’ I know it has to be a bed issue, personally.
Yes, but the only two reliable ways to measure the warp of the bed do not have anything to do with printing.
First one would be bed leveling data (from the lidar), but we cannot access that. It would also be the most precise method.
The second one is a firm steel ruler and a feeler gauge. It is the only halfway reliable way to measure the warp of the bed, not some tramming issues or other movements done by the printer.
Taking printed objects and saying it is a warped bed is never going to work, as there are plenty of other sources that will influence the outcome, most of them more heavily then a warped bed.
The second issue is that some people here expect perfectly flat beds reading this thread. Perfectly flat beds won’t be possible with a printer in this price range and the bed alone would cost at least half the price of the printer, if not more. So some deviation from perfectly flat has to be accepted and my personal opinion is that anything around 0.1mm is easily acceptable, even 0.2mm shouldn’t be a huge issue.
Bambu have the actual log data to say whether or not the bed is flat - they don’t need to make assumptions. If they’re saying the bed is within tolerance, ask them for the information from your machine’s log files that tell them that.
They should easily be able to tell you how far out it actually is.
That’s correct, but if the tramming is not correct then you can end up with the bed moving up and down while the layer go down, which can look the same as what would happen with a bed which is perfectly tram, but not very flat.
oh for sure, Im not saying its a valid reason, It just seems like that is a reason. Just based on alot of the interactions that seemingly happen, along with my own interactions seem like they don’t actually look at the logs without providing a ‘solution’
Is your print bed actually 1.7mm off? And did Bambu Lab actually tell you that a bed that is 1.7mm off is “within spec?” If that’s what happened, Bambu Lab needs to be called out on it. But I don’t think that’s what happened.
Can a man not call you out on your ridiculous blanket statements without getting called a simp?
Now, that’s funny.
Totally. And there are a million variables on those other sources. Different materials shrink/warp at different rates. Different infill amounts will change shrink rates. Different ambient temps will change shrink rates. Could be any number of things or a combination of multiple things. A warped bed won’t help with flatness, but just because a finished part isn’t straight/flat, doesn’t mean the bed is the issue.
