Heating speed should not have much impact to warping. After a couple of minutes everything has the same temp anyways, no matter if heated fast or slow.
If you worry about it, just let the bed soak the heat a couple extra minutes before you start printing.
I was thinking dT/dt
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I had finally put the tronxy glass on mine I posted a month or two ago. Magnetic Sticker on top and then build plate (with my new brackets). I seem to randomly get a calibration error. I took the glass back off and put a new generic magnetic sticker on the factory bed. But, I cut it to the size of the aluminum plate. Using a dial indicator Iām with .001 between the triangular mount points. But Iām up to .008" on the unsupported at the back corners. Not horrible but wish I could get it a little better. Seeing how easy I can push those 2 unsupported corners up and down there is no way Iām getting better.
I didnāt do a dial indicator on the hot bed yet. That will be later this week.
The plastic structure around the aluminum plate definitely lifts the build sticker and Iām sure even more when heated. I suggest cutting a magnetic sticker to the build plate size with a paper cutter like I did.
Iām real interested to see how people aluminum beds to replace the whole structure do. And if they throw errors like a glass plate will.
Now if you adhered the glass plate to the aluminum bed and then clipped the build plate to it, I think you could get it to work. Or print right on the Tronxy glass lattice structure. The magnetic sticker weighs close to as much as the tronxy glass and I think that causes issues randomly. I just donāt want to deal with clips.
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I had been experiencing an uneven bottom layer on a few PLA prints, saw a huge gap under a straight edge placed across my build plate when cold, was certain my bed was warped as well. Then last night I printed some replacement spools for some polyterra I have, in PC, and after letting it cool on the engineering plate found that they were absolutely flat and straight. In polycarbonate of all thingsā¦
Looking closer, I think itās my build plate thatās slightly bowed, concave on the cool side convex on the engineering side, and the magnets + thermal expansion result in flatness when using the engineering plate heated to 110C, pulling the middle down, but banana when using the cold side at <=45C and failing to pull the outer edges down quite as securely. I also noticed the cold plate sticker lifting off the metal plate when printing something that goes edge to edge which probably contributed more to my failed prints and I wish I saw that earlier.
In summary, my heatbed is fine, my built plate is not, and multiple quirks conspired to give the impression of a warped bed. Maybe this will give others some idea of additional tests to run before concluding the bed is at fault.
Still going to get the bed levelling data when I have time to set up nodered etc, or if Bambu finally share it as requested so I donāt have to go to the troubleā¦
Also, wtf I can print PC perfectly now 
ā¦ this polymax-pc has been sitting on the shelf for 4 years because the prusa just couldnāt do it for anything large and I had no enclosure.
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Why not print directly on glass? With the exception of exotics that covers most use-cases
I think it may be fine with the lattice glass especially. But you need a nozzle wipe area. Iād have to make some sort of bracket to hold a tab of build sheet there maybe.
Hello All,
I am also struggling with the warped heatbed issue.
Has anyone disassembled their heatbed to see exactly how that magnetic sticker overlaps onto the plastic border?
Taking a close look it appears that the sticker actually sits on top of the plastic near the edges. In my case the worst deviation is also coincidentally near the edges. All of the edges of my heat bed are raised higher than the rest of the heat bed. The inner portions appear to be relatively flat.
Putting all of that togetherā¦ I am wondering if most of this concave warp is caused by the aluminum portion of the bed sitting lower than the plastic edge, causing the sticker to lift higher at the edges.
If this is all the case, it makes one wonder (theoretically of course 
) if you could simply peel this magnetic sticker off and apply a uniform layer of alu-tape to bring the surfaces flush, and then reapply the magnetic sticker after wards.
OR
Depending on how significant the overhang onto the plastic border is, simply just cut away the overlapping portion of the magnetic sticker very carefully.
With all of that said, I am not sure if there is a good reason for this overlap. Vibration mitigation for the plastic maybeā¦?
Interested to hear the thoughts of the community on these points.
Thanks!
I was posting about this a few posts up. It overlaps maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch onto the plastic. You definitely can peel it off and cut it to the size of the aluminum. May help to warm up the bed to peel it off if youāve been using it and itās not new. It doesnāt come up super easily unless itās new. That for the most part made my bed good enough. Iāll wait for them to make another revision or someone to make an aluminum bed and swap to that later to fix the two back corners being .008" higher
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Thanks for the response Monkeyman!
So you have had some success with this approach?
Does the build sheet still heat evenly to the edges?
My bed seems to be out by about 0.3 - 0.4 mm from edge to center along the X and Y axis. It doesnt seem like alot, but man it sure does add a visible warp to large parts.
Such a bummer for an otherwise excellent printer!
I vaguely remember stumbling upon a post where someone had actually started machining a custom aluminum bed. Does anyone have any details on the state of that project? It sure does sound like the premium solution to this problem. I would be tempted to do the same but the integration of a heater, thermocouple, and piezo sensors (atleast thats what they look like) seems like a potential headache. Nonetheless, certainly interested in any feedback on this.
Yo mates,
Hows it goin, is the warped bed issue fixed now?
I was thinking if I order a second printer, would it arrive with a straight perfect bed?
May the force be with you mates!
/Silverbullit
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In the same boat, was about to pull the trigger after watching countless videos on youtube but then started digging deeper in FB, Telegram and reddit and got quiet concerned about the way BL handles the warped bed issue. Especially the fact that they remained quiet in a 1000+ reply thread. Keeping specs secret when reading board curvage.
Did read about people using glass beds but that got them error readings, atleast some of them etc.
Was there actually a change in the beds from v2 to v3?
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And most (all?) of them arenāt using 3mm borosilicate glass. Just using any old glass available at the local hardware store wonāt always result in a great experience.
Iāll hold off with my order until thereās clear signs that the warped bed issue has been resolved. dishing out that amount of money on an entirely proprietary system Iām not inclined to toy around with workarounds.
Just got my x1c delivered. will have to check it out this evening to see if the bed is okā¦ got me worried nowā¦ not gonna be happy if a brand new one is warpedā¦
I checked my bed last night for my x1c and using a ruler side to side, up and down and diagonally, i dont see any major issuesā¦ I did it with the light test. I do notice if the ruler extends over the edge of the bed there will be a slight raising of the ruler at the edgesā¦ IE hairline crack cant even get paper under itā¦ when using one that fits the bed, i do not have any significant dips when testing. This was before first use. I did benchy last night and have the bento box printing in petg-cfā¦ will check it after this project to compare any changes. crossing fingers this remains this way
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Thought Iād share my experience.
I tried goodplate and it really provides a flat bed experience. However, I lost the ability to use the guides for the plates. Moreover, the printer was throwing some Z-homing errors and some sensor overload errors everynow and then ; it got really really sensibleā¦
Got a replacement heatbed yesterday. Visually, a slight bow of 0,5 mm in the middle ; same valley from left to right. Thought Iād replace the whole heatbed just to see (I had a bubble on mine).
First of all, my goodplate was secured using silicone. Removing it was very easy, just slide a utility blade or really anything metallic in between the glass and the magnetic sheet and cut away. You can lift the goodplate afterwards and cleaning both the glass and the heatbed was really easy. I got back a āokayā heatbed just in case !
Now, the ugly : replacing heatbeds is a chore. It took the better part of 2 hours, with at least 40 screws and honestly, way, wayyy to much screws than really needed.
Not really ādifficultā, but more tedious. I know of the āshorcutā way someone posted here but I wanted to follow exactly what Bambu told us to do.
It is worth it ? If you have a bowed bed, yeah, itās 2 hours and then youāre done forever. But the odds of getting a bowed replacement bed are not zero.
If you donāt feel lucky, get some glass and get your bed flat in mere minutes. Or buy a premade kit.
This isnt the most accurate way of measuring bed flatness. Many other factors may have contributed to a warped part.
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Did you heat the bed before testing?
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I checked it immediately after opening it to see if it was warped from factory. everything seemed good. Now I have printed a few things including a PETG-CF bento box on a wham bam plateā¦ I call that out as yes i have heated the bed, done about a day and a half of printing worth now with a heated then cooled bed multiple timesā¦
Right now all measures the same as when I opened it. Crossing fingers it stays this way. I plan on checking it regularly after prints to monitor for any warping. right now using the heated bed for a print 65c temp for 5 hoursā¦ once done i will check again. If anything changes, i will post an update here.
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Anyone see/hear the interview with BL CEO? Apparently acknowledged the bed issues and says theyāve been resolved on printers shipped in this month
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