Sorry, apparently I saved the “thing” but did not publish it.
The link above worked in Edge, Chrome, and Firefox (no Thingiverse history or cookies), but now a search at Thingiverse for “rule support X1C” should also find it.
@Sayenah Somehow I still don’t quite understand how the plate is mounted on the original? Your aluminum plate doesn’t stick to the original magnetic foil, does it? And how is the original pei plate mounted on your aluminum plate?
Good questions. I ordered it out of curiosity, let’s see what it does.
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Just in case you havent seen this product.
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What is suppose to better on this build plate than the one that came with my printer?
This plate does not flex at all. Stays flat! You have to wait for it to cool down to get your print off of it.
The oem plates flex on the heatbed, if the heatbed is not flat neither is the flex plate.
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Is it like a glass bed?
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It’s 2mm pcb material. Fr4 material.
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The ad says 1.7mm
Pretty sure they are sold on their adhesion properties, not the fact that they wont flex on a none flat bed, because they will.
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Yeah some misleading info on the website. States 1.5mm one place. In specifications is states 1.7mm. Real world in my case 2.0mm. They mention parts pop off as it cools down, which it does do this.
Then they say this.
- 1.5mm Thick G-10 - Thick enough to stay perfectly flat, while being thin enough to flex large prints off the build plate.
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Yep! It’s perfect for laying on top of an already flat surface that has poor adhesion.
" Materials
1.5mm thick matte black G-10 and Cardboard Packaging"
Maybe they source the material from different places. Must vary depending on order or something.
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Has anyone tried this on a warped heat bed? If yes, how bad was the warp and how much did this plate help?
It states it has a magnetic base but the reviews indicate clips are required. What’s the story there?
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My bed has a swing of 0.25mm all around the bed. I used the build plate with two 100x100mm squares. The surface tension is shown in this crude video.
I do not use clips. I have not printed any project or use any filament that caused the build plate to lift off the heated bed.
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To me, The bed heats up awfully fast. I’d like to see them slow it down a bit. Heating up ANY flat metal object too quickly will cause warping. For an everyday example- even on a thick cast iron skillet. The greater the mass of the metal, and the area, the slower the rate of temperature increase needs to be.
Every metal and alloy has a maximum heat up rate it can take w/o causing issues. Did Bambu bother to check? Or did the plate manufacturer make claims to Bambu they can’t meet?
Next is heater distribution across the surface, if the heater “coils” are spaced too far apart, it will cause warping too.
So, to Bambu. How about investigating these issues and maybe giving us direct control over the heat rate in Studio in the section where we set bed temperature?
For now, I’m raising the bed temp in steps with a wait in between before starting a print job because of all the warped beds being reported. Unless they have a temperature grid measurement in the bed, they are not getting an accurate measurement of the actual temperature across the surface. Would need a 4x4 grid at a MINIMUM.
Anyone know if it’s possible to slow it down in an exported gcode file?
If that’s the cause, how do you explain all of the warped beds people reported right after unpacking their printers?
That’s a manufacturing issue, which would tend to lead to the conclusion the manufacturer (which my understanding is not Bambu, but contracted) is taking shortcuts and has QC issues which also causes the warping through use, because the plate also can’t meet the requirements for the rate of temperature increase and the density of the heating elements.
They supposedly already talked with the manufacturer about QC issues. Maybe they should look for another company.
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