It sounds like we’re doomed either way then. According to you, even flat build plates are going to warp since you somehow determined they are being heated too quickly.
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Barry thanks for sharing that link & video. Im interested in this as it sounds like it may address the bed warp issue. Would you mind sharing what filaments youve printed using it?
Of course! 
I have used ABS and silk PLA with OEM printer profile, generic filament profile for both of them. This is an X1C with just less than 1500 hrs. All original parts except a little filing on the filament sensor last month.
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No, I said it appears to be heating up too quickly. The fact they are warping tends to lend that some credence, but there could be other issues also.
It just occurred to me there is also the possibility that only having 3 z axis rods may allow this to happen, where most beds have at least 4 points of support. So in the Bambu, you have 2 unattached corners tha can flex at different rates. You’d need a very high quality build plate to counter that.
It is interesting that the Prusa XL, because of it’s large plate size is using a 16 piece plate with 16 heating zones to allow for expansion and even localized temperature changes. My bet is you’ll see that in more large volume printers in the future. Elegoo went with 6 mounting points (all adjusting knobs with springs) on their large format printer as their solution.
What are the two 100x100mm squares used for?
Nothing i just quickly built them in fusion360 to have two plates to print on this new build surface. Basically to see how the surfaces mate to each other. Which in my case they did good.
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This thread is pretty lengthy. If you scroll up and start from the top, you’ll find most things you are mentioning have already been exhausted.
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how did you get heat map of your bed?
Are you using Octoprint?
Octoprint? I believe does not work with BL stuff as needs USB port
For those who have a warp outside the current bed leveling test area (184 x 205 mm) there may be some relief in sight. See Bambu Support email below.
support@service.bambulab.com
2023-07-26 19:43:15
Hello,
Can you please explain why you are unable to print beyond 200mm?
We can offer you a one-time exception and send a replacement heatbed if you wish to replace it.
As I have mentioned, we will have a new firmware available very soon that further improves the leveling data.
Looking forward to your answer
Thanks
Bambu Lab
Let’s hope it will be available via mqtt as well. Bed leveling data was removed from mqtt in the latest firmware.
Firmware can’t make a bed flatter. It can only compensate so you can print on a surface regardless of flatness.
Exactly. Bed leveling does not fix a curved bed; it ensures that the first layer and subsequent layers printed on the curved bed are as uniform as possible. A really nice first layer on a curved surface is better than nothing, but I need to start with a flat surface, not a curved one.
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Depends on if you bend the plate down, or bend it up, that will determine if the middle is higher or the edges… 
Using a bendable plate isn’t conducive to a flat bed.
I’m sorry to say but if you need a bed that is flatter than one that is off by .001", just use glass.
I’ve been using a glass bed for years, but I’m quite enjoying the extra ability to flex the bed to get stuff off vs hammering away with the sharp butterknife.
Hey folks,
So I’ve purchased both the Goodplate and the Lightyear plate.
HUGE bonus on the lightyear plate. No errors, works right away. The goodplate had ‘complicated’ install, and had constant issues with z-homing, etc. The downside of the lightyear plate is you can’t switch out your buildplates for things like PEI, coolplate, etc.
Now, I think some issues for the goodplate may have been because I was using “buildplate stop extenders”. These seem to mess things up for no apparent reason. However, I was getting the “force sensor” error before I put those on, but the homing errors might be because of stops?
When using the goodplate, you also need to print out a little “riser” for the lidar calibration sticker so the lidar gets calibrated correctly. I haven’t seen any issue on this front with the lightyear plate.
Looking at both plates, it seems that what you need to create a custom buildplate is this: 1) A layer of something that is ferrous (is attracted to magnets). 2) A layer of something that is rigid, flat, and conducts heat well without deforming. 3) A layer of something that is magnetic.
Ideally you could combine 1&2 into a single layer with some sort of magenetic layer on top to hold the plates. I might try and source some stuff from amazon and let people know how it goes.
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I would call it “Glossy”. not quite mirrored but definitely shiny and smooth provided you have flow properly calibrated.
Adhesion is pretty good. I had my first print fall off, but I bumped the heat up to ~55 and it’s been doing great since then even with very small-footprint prints. I haven’t tried to do a print with a large footprint, but I do notice some 1/4-1/2mm corner curling on sharp corners. I suspect a bit more careful calibration on my part would stop that.
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Thanks for the info. i have both as well but havent used either. I went through a phase and grabbed many different build plates and styles… Still working through them… Interested in the lightyear one.
A feature request on github that bambu studio should show the bedmesh information. All that are interested should vote for this on github. This would help all customers to figure out how flat the bed is.
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