I have started a print with a print time over 2 days. Then I will look at it again, then calibrate Lidar and see what happens. The printer always reported Lidar errors until i moved the plate a little to the left. Maybe coincidence, maybe not.
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Ok, ich konnte es nicht bestätigen. Lidar Kalibrierung hat nicht funktioniert.
How much does this plate weight? do you have to change any settings in the printer?
I think he answered this already: Warped bed :( seems like a common QC issue - #1540 by AndiS
Does anyone know what Bambu Labs considers ‘‘acceptable’’ in respect to flatness of the heatbed?
just use the riser stl someone developed for this specific purpose and made available on printables.
Works like a charm with my 5mm thick rigid plate.
https://www.printables.com/model/501376-bambulab-sticker-holder
That’s the one and it was made by @DzzD
I did. But there’s something wrong with the label. I don’t know what, we haven’t found out yet. But it’s somehow not important either. There are other plates on which you can’t calibrate. The Wiki has a solution for this and as far as I know it’s the same as the one I use. I calibrate the filament and everything else on a cool plate or engineering plate. And I replace the plate before printing. This means that the sticker holder is not needed. Although there are error messages with the lidar (or not), I can ignore them because the print still works afterwards.
metel expands so that could be the issue
I got a replacement Bed V3 which is flat - still have not measured how much , but V2 on my old one was Curved causing warping in large prints , and the local distributor , did measured a new replacement V2 and was warped. Then they measured V3 and was ok according to them and was replaced with V3
Happy that i got the printer from the Local distributor mindkits for NZ ,as they did replace it for me under warranty and much quicker then waiting for replacement. But first was confirmed the issue by Bambu via logging a support ticket
No printer bed is perfectly flat. And as for your glass fix this is an old solution, they have been running glass beds for years for that issue.
I’m not sure where your comment is coming from, but it looks like you’re replying to a post of mine from eight(!) months ago. This thread is now more than 1500 posts long and as such you’re about a year late to the party we’ve all been having…with our severely warped beds. You might want to start at the beginning, and you’ll see what we’ve all been through. The surface deviation is a lot worse than you think or should ever expect from a printer manufacturer–especially for the price we paid. My old Creality CR-6 SE had a significantly flatter bed. Lots of people here tried lots of solutions, many of which involved borosilicate glass or mirror glass. Some earlier than mine, some later. I don’t know why you singled mine out and called it “old,” but you’re right, it wasn’t a novel solution for any of us who tried it and none of us claimed that it was. We knew it would work because it’s been used for years, as you say. I’ve had my solution in place for most of the year and it’s been exactly what I needed for my projects.
Sorry ya i think i am. I didn’t pay attention to the date
If I am reading it correctly, the bed heater they use does not integrate with the stock electronics. If that’s the case, it’s a real shame.
The heater from Princore integrates with the electronics as does the thermistor.
Here is a video (audio is german) from them installing it:
Change Printbed
Hi, after a long long time I realized the same thing. The problem is not only with the bed but also with the gantry.
For a long time I made useless measurements with a precision gauge attached to the extruder. If the bed is flat, the gauge indicates 3 points perfectly at zero but the fourth is not (-0.5 mm in my case) then it is the gantry that is crooked. Did Bambulab told you if it is possible to correct this problem? Thanks
It’s disheartening to hear about the frustration and lack of transparency experienced when dealing with Bamabu Labs’ customer support. Many users, myself included, share your sentiment regarding the arduous process of submitting a ticket and navigating through a series of tests designed to deflect from the printer’s well-known issues.
Test #1, with its 40mm square cubes printed precisely at each bed leveling checkpoint, and Test #2, labeled the “sweep test,” may appear to address concerns about bed flatness. However, these tests fall short of providing meaningful data or solutions. Instead, they serve as mere illusions, creating the illusion of assistance while failing to address the root cause of the problem.
The elusive nature of Bamabu Labs’ acceptable specifications further compounds the frustration. Without clear guidelines, users are left in the dark about what constitutes a satisfactory result. Beds with significant runout measurements are inexplicably deemed acceptable, leaving users with unresolved issues and a sense of disillusionment.
Bamabu Labs must reevaluate its approach to customer support and product quality assurance. Transparency and accountability are essential for fostering trust and satisfaction among users. Until meaningful changes are made, many users will continue to feel disenchanted with the company’s practices.
I’ve asked Bamabu Labs this exact question, and unfortunately, they refuse to disclose what they consider ‘acceptable’ in terms of heated bed flatness. Despite measuring a runout of over 2mm on my bed, they insist it falls within their mysterious ‘specification.’
Their tests are carefully crafted to sidestep any accountability and create the illusion of a flawless bed or printer. Take, for instance, the test involving printing a series of small 40mm cubes precisely at each bed leveling checkpoint. This test yields no meaningful or actionable data.
When I requested a test print of a 100mm square (which would undoubtedly reveal the issue), my request was blatantly ignored.
Has anyone found a way to level the bed with shims or any other technique?
Have the same issue and don’t want to pay £112 for a new bed.
Considering going back to Ender due to the bed warp and replacememt costs.
For special cases where I notice warping that I don’t need (this has to do with the print bed and flexible print plate), I built a rigid print plate by gluing a sandwich with a glass plate (other users have similar solutions ). This means that any unevenness in the print bed no longer plays a role. I didn’t want to go to the trouble of replacing the heated bed, especially since it’s uncertain whether the problems will be reduced or even eliminated after doing so.
Try with support they did replace my Bed for free to V3 using the local distributor, see other comments . New V2 off the shelve was also curved and i asked the distributor to measured before install . I had around 0.3-0.5mm curve depending on temperature
But any thing bellow 0.1 warping is caused by other factors
also this helps in some cases : Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Or use the original solution from this thread glass and etc …
Manual tramming will make the bed as level (parallel to the x-y plane of the head) as possible, but it cannot do anything to make it flat. If you are still in warranty, Bambu will replace a bed warped out of spec, whatever their standard is. In my case, a 0.8 mm central dip qualified.