Yes you have to uunstick the original LIDAR sticker and use it, I was never able to print a Sticker with enought quality to make it work with my own own lazer printer, for now I only manage to make it working with the original sticker
Here is a discussion I opened a while ago talking about this difficulty :
EDIT: It will work fine with the original sticker, just be carefull when unsticking it, not difficult but take your time
Interesting. I have already thought something similar. But I only have one sticker, and I wanted to leave it where it is so that I can print and calibrate with other plates.
Maybe the color of the paper plays a role. I have only used recycled paper here for the time being. I will try a little more. Maybe weâll get lucky.
Please give us some feedbacks if you succeed on the other thread if you find a suitable way, my side I have not yet teste all kind of paper, I have to try with glossy & another transparent paper
An idea: Maybe you could unstick the original sticker, put it in a thin printed plastic support (0.1mm) that fit its size, then you will be able to use it on both without the risk of damaging it
Iâm not sure about that. but what do we do if it breaks? BambuLab can provide stickers, but I donât think itâs all that important. I calibrate the printer and filament with a normal build plate, where these processes are sure to work. The filament calibration can then be disabled when the self-print-plate is placed. The bed leveling does work. Or what do you think?
For all with an uneven bed where Bambulab doent care to provide a new flat one, and who are located in Europe i found a cast alluminium bed for P1P and another for P1P/X1 printer.
Take a look here: Cast Aluminium Plate P1P
and here: Cast Alluminium Plate P1P/P1S/X1C
I have a P1P and got the second one. But I think, if you have a X1C and dont care about the Lidar, you can even use the first one on an X1C if you want to go cheaper.
Pictures:
Very interesting, I think that 45⏠is a reasonable price compared to the 260⏠some scam companies on some posts above have tried to sell theirs replacements beds.
But I still think that not taking away the original magnetic sheet is an error/not optimized
Would it be possible, pls, to have some close pictures on how it fit in place once mounted ? I have some difficulties understanding what is stock and what is not and also how much thicker the bed get etcâŠ
The bed gets 5mm thicker, so you should adjust that in the slicer.
Here some closeups of the installed bed:
Because this version is magnetic attached and you can remove it easy, the stock magnetic sticker is needed.
The other version is fixed with screws and with it you could remove the stock magnetic sticker. That version is also delivered with a new magnetic sheet.
What I donât understand is: What are you printing on, the metal plate?
There are two problems you are struggling with:
Of course, the same question applies to the offer advertised by another user.
Thought: I need a rigid plate that can be printed on. It is practical to apply a sticker to this printing plate. However, it would perhaps be better to coat the rigid plate, which holds magnetically on the print bed, so that print objects can be detached from it more easily.
In the last picture you can see the flexible PEI coated steelplate on top of the aluminium plate. I have other steelplates with PEO/PET surfaces, so i can swap. But you are right: it only holds magnetically, so if you print objects from material with great shrinkage and lot of surface you risk that the corners of the steelsheet will lift from the magnic base, in this case the aluminium plate. But that even goes for the stock printer.
And you are right too, that you can place a print surface sticker directly on the aluminium plate, if you need a sturdy flat print plate, that will not bend in any case.
I had a goodplate on the printer, but sadly the printer decided after initiating a vibration calibration to slam the bed into the nozzle and the goodplate got a crack. Bad luck.
Iâm not affiliated with kis-3d. I was in search of a solution and with some luck found the offer that I think is not overpriced.
Thatâs looking mighty tempting, how thick is it though? Seems pretty thin but might just be the perspective.
Feels like a real balance game. Not to thin to start warping when it gets heated and cooled down, but also not to thick it takes 2h to heat up the bed.
Any reviews from long term users?
The magnetic aluminium plate is 5mm thick and the weight is ~900grams. I heat the printbed for a minimum of 5min prior to printing. The printer needs another 5 mins to make the mesh bed leveling.
I dont know the thickness of the other plate (with the screws). Maybe write a email to the company.
As a sidenote: My printer has no problems with the bed probe sensors.
How does it work with the BL plates? It seems to be some plate included but does the aluminum bed work with the original plates as well?
I have the more expensive one:
There is no print plate included. The top is milled aluminium.
See at the second picture I posted. There are magnets embedded on the backside. They 1) hold the aluminium plate on the original magnetic sticker and 2) are strong enough to hold a flexible steelplate on the top side.
I bought some golden textured PEI flexible steelplates from AliExpress prior to BL have them in the shop, which you can see in the last picture (very thin) and some PEO/PET plates. So I assume, the BL plates will hold the same.
I only have the black PEI plate from BL that came with the printer, but havent used it since I got the golden ones which are superior IMHO.
The cheaper plate has a magnetic sheet with it delivered which you apply after screwing it to the bed. New screws are provided, take a look at the shop. I dont have it, so I cant say more about it.
Was thinking about the expensive one, but seems like a couple of downsides, like lidar and calibration etc. How much hassle is it to run with this? Have you measured the flatness, is it worth it?
Hi, here is a good and high quality solution 
A complete replacement heat-bed?? Too bad itâs only for 220V.
I have noticed something strange. No elevation for the lidar sticker next to the print bed. I moved my rigid print plate, which is about 4mm higher, further to the left on the heating bed (0.5mmâŠ?). No more error message when scanning the sticker. Do higher printing plates impair the lidarâs field of vision?
dont know (maybe didnât understand all what you explain too, english is not my natural language), maybe when LIDAR completely fail, it does not show any message ?
