I have been trying to print in the last few days and and I keep warping.
I tried increasing the bed temperature, tried slowing down . The machine is in a room at 21 to 24C.
And this time I used glue to have adhesion.
It looked fine at the start but a few layer and it warps.
I am confused at what to do.
Label socket full Hex.3mf (2.3 MB)
The room is too cold and the air currents are causing a different temp in spots on the print causing warping is my guess. I loaded your file and the tags are quite small.
I’m in canada in winter so I understand the issue, it’s -20 outside and about 22 in my living room. You might need a tent setup as well to prevent air temp issues.
I posed a quick setup here if you are in cold temperatures.
IMPORTANT: the A series printers are not quite made for tents from what I’ve been hearing and overheat the boards, you must be careful and monitor to be sure. I have a velcro top hole that is opened in the picture I put to passively allow some air exchange (but no fan inside the tent as that will cause the same warping issues when it blows the air around)
Also as your pieces are quite thin you might want to clean the build plate with soap and water to be sure things stick and see if that helps
Ahh yes! you got it built hmm. (how’s the wobble? did you get it secured down?)
temp inside that cabinet? for my tent it’s about 28-30C inside when running as an fyi, if the plate temp drops below 30ish from the 65 heating on mine the PEI will kick off the print by itself, the plate temp is that sensitive. So air currents can affect the parts and warping hence my line of thought on this.
If the temp is ok and not a air draft problem, I would lean towards dirty plate, cooling fan maybe…there are no overhangs so it shouldn’t be peeling away. Hmm. Filament? pla? petg?
EDIT: ya sorry now I see the thermo lol 
21 is too cold in that thing if I was at a poker table betting.
I am in the process of gaining a slab of granite countertop, so tbd. But adding an aluminum nose L section helped in the vertical axis.
The air “inside” (no doors yet to control) is the 21 to 24 of today. no air draft I am pretty sure.
the plate was clean just before (said failed adhesion)
Bambulab pla white and black
so increase room temp, while I don’t have a door. Will try.
About what I can think of here, maybe some others members can chime in.
as a quick test clamp a thin-ish comforter bed cover or something over the front so the air deflects back in heating the box.
Heating the room too sure…maybe not to 30 but to a good 25 and see if that helps. Maybe not test with a full print either, see if 4-5 will stick before going all in checking this,
EDIT: essentially even in a 25 room if you get drafts blowing over the plate it will/might/could affect it. Being 21 now it’s struggling I’m thinking and right at the edge of adhesion so if someone walks by to check the print it’s enough to cause a problem
I was experiencing warping on a large print with pla and the solution for me was to mix about a 1:1 of elmers glue and water, smear it on the buildplate, and heat the buildplate up until it evaporates. If you get it nice and even, the bottom of the print actually turns out really smooth. Or you could just buy supertack. 
He’s on the PEI plate. Dawn dishsoap + scrubber brush is all it needs.
At 65-70 nothing comes off it, soon as the temps drop it auto-unsticks.
To the point where if the nozzle clips a very tall print and the bed is cooler it will knock everything off.
PEI powa!
Well increasing temperature in the room seemed to have helped (tho my electricity bill will suffer 
)
I had warping on large prints a few times but I found there were 3 things I could do to help.
There is something else I tried which was to stop the fan for the first 5-6 layers and run the auxillary fan at half speed, but I don’t know for sure if it made a difference. You’re trying to find the sweet spot of helping the layers to stick to each other while avoiding temperature differences which can cause warping.
