I have been using the gallon ziplock freezer bags, and they are much thicker than the regular bags.
I also use them for food as they don’t get freezer burn quickly. I use them for crockpot and instapot meals as they don’t leak.
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If this can actually hit 190f (88c)…. It would be great for nylons. Perfect size, just turn it on its side, print a spool holder, make a hole for ptfe tube. Done!
After watching this vid, it’s pretty clear that for nylons, 70c isn’t real practical.
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I wasn’t name-checked, so, I missed this one.
I did, the Sunlu S4. I bought mine three weeks ago, but it wasn’t in a sale, although it had an Amazon discount. I got it for £99, currently £125.
I might switch it on this weekend. I am not sure why I bought it, possibly because of the high-end filaments I purchased recently which all say "Dry Me First’.
Possibly peer-pressure!
I also store my filament in zip-lock 1-gallon bags with a silica bag in each one.
I think this helps me not have to dry everything as everyone else seems to need to. I imagine the “Dry Me First” filaments might ruin my track record though.
I have only ever dried filaments twice, once because it was brittle and I was experimenting, the first time I used it was because I had just purchased my original dryer.
@movingimage Thank you for posting that! That was by far the most informative youtube video that I’ve yet seen on this topic. Finally some real science! Well presented and useful to know. 
Most of everything else on youtube is little more than handwaving, with little to nothing to back it up.
What he unfortunately didn’t explore was how long it would take equally moist PLA, PETG, TPU, etc. to dry equally as dry (0.2% to 0.6% percent moisture by his reckoning). Or, for that matter, are the optimal dryness targets different for different types of filament? There’s quite a lot of unknowns remaining that has yet to be elucidated.
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Agreed. I found it interesting how the drying temp to length of time required was logarithmic. So, even getting a dryer that could do 80c instead of 70c would make a big difference.
I’m new to all of this and I am looking for a good working filament dryer that I can actually use. Do any of you have a recommendation?
Start from the top of this thread. You’ll find lots of recommendations.
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Here’s an AI generated summary for you that summarizes the recommendations as discussed across the entire Bambu Lab forum:
In analyzing the Bambu Lab forum discussions about filament dryers, it’s evident that users share a variety of recommendations and experiences across different dryer models and methods, including innovative approaches to managing air humidity using desiccants. Here’s a comprehensive summary including the detailed points on desiccant usage in air drying:
- Sunlu S2 and S4 Dryers:
- Sunlu S4: Highly praised for its automatic humidity control, which reactivates as needed, making it efficient for users managing multiple filaments or extensive printing tasks
.
- Sunlu S2: Known for good performance, with recommendations to manually vent the unit during cycles to optimize moisture control, which could potentially be enhanced with desiccant use within the system
.
2. Print Dry Pro 3:
- Recognized for reaching temperatures up to 85°C, suitable for a variety of filaments. Some users suggest calibration for accurate temperature readings and discuss potentially integrating desiccant systems to maintain optimal humidity levels inside the dryer
.
3. EIBOS 3D Series X: Easdry:
- Favored for its non-direct heating design that prevents overheating, with a suggestion that supplementing this system with a desiccant could help maintain even lower humidity levels for sensitive materials
.
4. Homemade and DIY Solutions:
- Users explore homemade solutions including modified ovens or custom-built systems with advanced temperature and airflow control, where integrating desiccant systems is often discussed to enhance drying effectiveness, especially for very hygroscopic materials
.
5. Desiccant Use and Air Drying Techniques:
- Discussions include using desiccant packs directly in the dryer or storage containers, and advanced setups where desiccated air is pumped into the dryer to create a dry, positive pressure environment. This technique helps in replacing any moist air with dry air, significantly boosting the drying process. Users emphasize the importance of choosing the right type of desiccant and regularly regenerating it to maintain effectiveness
.
6. Quality and Safety Concerns in Budget Models:
- Concerns are expressed regarding the build quality and safety features of budget models like Sovol and Comgrow. Users discuss the importance of robust safety features, suggesting that integrating desiccant systems might mitigate some risks by maintaining lower operational humidity
.
7. Experimental and Innovative Approaches:
- Some users are experimenting with vacuum solutions to reduce drying time and improve efficiency. The potential integration of desiccant systems in such experimental setups is discussed to control the drying environment more effectively
.
These insights show a proactive community engaging in optimizing filament drying techniques using both commercial products and custom modifications. The integration of desiccant systems to control and improve air quality within dryers emerges as a significant theme, pointing to the community’s deep technical engagement and innovative approaches to 3D printing preparation.
I live in Salt lake city Utah it’s fairly dry in the summer but er use a swamp cooler which keeps the humidity in the house quite high in the summer.
I couldn’t figure out how to add the pictures to the post, so here is the write up.
The first print from the spool that was left on the shelf unprotected for 10yo
finished with out incident, (I credit the Bambu A1 for that.) but it was a train wreck, brittle and full of errors.
I set the A1 to reprint and the second print was pristine. Not brittle and no flaws. So once the outer layer was cleared off by the first print the spool was fine, I printed the entire spool with out problems and all 4 of the spool halves I printed came out clean with no issues. I did run out of the weathered filament shortly into the last spool half. I simply connected the other old role and finished the print.
When I get some higher temperature filament I will most likely print a new batch of spools without the open sides, as I think the success of these roles can in part be attributed to the solid sides of their spools not letting the environment get to the filament.
I’ve always just used my old toaster oven on the keep warm function and I haven’t had any issues with it yet.