The most annoying challenge was figuring out what size of screen I wanted to use. I originally used a 1.75 inch screen, then switched to a 1.46 inch screen to allow for more airflow.
Right now I am at the stage of deciding the best way to power the unit. Its an easy USB C connection, but took some creative modifications to get everything to fit. I am either going to tie it into the USB ports on my car, or do a fuse box splint to completely hide the wires. I am running it off a power bank right now, but thats only a short term solution.
The programming side is going to be the hardest part. I have a good amount of experience with Pi based machines, but nothing with a UI. Thank god for Claude Code, I was able to get a simple clock.
I am hoping to eventually copy it over to all 3 vents, then tie it into the sensors on my car so I can display gauges for Boost, Trans temp, etc. I also have a cellular modem in the car, so maybe something like a Spotify UI, but that might be redundant with having Carplay.
I favour the fuse box or, alternatively, a breakout connector for power behind the car radio. Some car radios even have a switched power output at the back for external hardware, such as an external camera, which is also powered. Although âradioâ doesnât quite cover it anymore - letâs call it a multimedia hub.
The fuse box definitely has a switched output. For the multimedia system, youâll need to check the datasheet, but thatâs usually the case as well. Then you can turn on the screen when you start the car.
If you buy one of those plastic levers, you probably wonât even have to remove the front panels; itâs usually enough to just slip a cable in without taking anything off.
If you do decide to remove the panels, donât forget to order the brackets beforehand - theyâll break off, which is by design, and youâll have to replace them. Not all of them, but some variations of them.
Of course, I donât know if thatâs the case with your car! Some manufacturers use them, while others use reusable clips. They also look different depending on the manufacturer; hereâs an example picture.
Sadly no breakout connectors on the radio. I replaced my infotainment system with one from a 2022 a few years back, so I pretty much know the ins and outs of that system.
The reason I am debating on whether to do the USB or fuse splint is because I already have 2 splints on my fuse box powering my radar detector and dash camera. Which I need to figure out if and where I can draw more power, while with the USB route, it is guaranteed. Plus the fuse box is 12V ( ESP32 boards use 5V), so I would need to mount a buck converter somewhere in route.
Appreciate the advice on disassembly. Iâve been working on cars for longer than I have been 3d printing, so everything is handled on that front.
Good thing is that Ford uses reusable connectors almost everywhere. Of course that doesnât stop them from breaking on occassion. Funny thing, about 20 of those connectors in my interior are printed.
Curious, do you actually find the rad detector useful? Where I live in the USA the freeway in my area is posted 60 MPH. The average speed is 77 (seriously). You have to be doing something really azzine (dangerous) to draw attention, which a lot of people do.
Its nice to have. I put one in both of my cars after I got a nasty ticket a few years back. Cant say it gets used all that often, but if it saves me one ticket, it pays for itself.
The issue with driving red sports cars is that you tend to draw a little more attention than the rest of traffic.
Always so satisfying how these go together. I print the tpu brush part first, then inlay that into the handle while it is printing, pretty much making it permanent.
Those rings on the vertebrae are maybe anatomically accurate, but will probably hurt you to sit in a chair with! [Assuming youre going to rig it like the character wore them]
Reminds me of the doomslayerâs praetor armor. Even these flat ones were incredibly uncomfortable once made and affixed IRL
Itâs nice, Cincinatti, but there is a digital clock right under it. Unless you like the bigger clock face with hands. But it does add a custom touch.
I can relate. But real time octane? What are you going to do? Pull back in and demand the octane the gas station shorted you by selling you low or mid-grade at a Premium price?
(I just run regular and let my computer worry about the injectors. LOL! Some things I donât micromanage.)
My car is tuned so it is sensitive to octane. I usually run an e50 blend which requires filling up with 93, then pulling forward to another pump to fill with e85. It is usually simple.
