Which glue/spray for ABS + Engineering plate?

Bambu Lab X1 Series
1

Hi All,

I’ve been printing ABS with 3DLAC (spray) which works well however I see white marks on black parts and they are very difficult to remove. I confirmed the marks are from the spray, not mixing with other colours so I need to find a new adhesive for ABS on the engineering plate.

I’m just trying PVA liquid (from 5L container usually used for plastering) diluted with some water and brushed on and that is warping quite badly.

Previously when the machine was new I tried the Bambu glue stick but that didn’t seem to stick too well either, also I didn’t like the inconsistent thickness when applying it.

Any suggestions what to try next that will not leave marks on black ABS (or washes off easily like PVA)?

Would a PEI plate have more grip.

What about just cleaning with IPA and no adhesive?

FWIW it is a bad shape to print (for warping) so if other people have success with the above methods it may be the shape of the model. I can add a brim but would like to avoid the post-processing, I could also investigate and additional chamber pre-heater my chamber temps are about 47C and I set the build plate to 90C (would 100 work better? )

2

I’ve gone through many different adhesives on my engineering/high temp plate including Bambu. None of them have performed as consistently and as smoothly or as cheaply as: Aquanet Hairspray. I kid you not.

3

Have you tried making some ABS slurry or juice (ABS dissolved in acetone)?
First Google search will get you the answers

4

Vision miner nano polymer. Everything else is trash.

5

The white marks are stress lines where the plastic was stretched as you were peeling it off. if you bend ABS it goes lighter on the bend. You can use a blow touch to fix that. just start far away like 100mm, the closer you are the quicker you must move it around.
I used to have to do it all the time, I now use a micrscopic layer of diluted glue on the textured PEI plate. They self release with no blooming/stress lines.

6

Where are you pointing the blow torch?

I believe you are correct it is stress on the plastic. Also I cannot use a brim since removing it from black ABS leaves white lines in the black part. Seems like I need to go back to the 3DLAC which sticks very well however I need to find a way to release the part without the plastic sticking much.

I can try leaving to cool longer and putting in the fridge or freezer? Or heat the build plate over 100 before removal? I’m not sure what the max temp is…

7

I sort of wave in over the parts that are white. Just test on a scrap part. if you use the blue flame be careful as it makes shiny spots, mine I can turn the front bit to make a big yellow flame which seems to work the best. Some say a heat gun also works but I’ve never tried it.

I don’t have easy access to 3DLAC or any of those gloop products. I found no amount of cooling gets anything to self release on the eng plate. Brims are almost permanent fixtures. This must be why they give a blade and scraper to print, I use it on all my plates and if used properly it cannot scratch the surface.

I plan to buy the bambu high plate as I’m not a fan of the patterned ones, I have the PEO plate which I use glue with as well and it releases way easier than the eng plate. I mostly use the BBL gold PEI with glue no brims unless it’s a tall small footprint part, and refresh it about once a week.

8

Duane you are a genius - just tried a heat gun on my parts and the white marks disappear like magic, nice and controllable and quick too. I may try a little test and see if it can get rid of the marks left from removing a brim too.

So I’ll set-off another print with the 3DLAC so the warping is minimal and any remaining white marks I can get rid of quickly :slight_smile: