Had this printer for 1 week and its been great but just today noticed odd unsettling noise when printing the outer walls mainly the ones that are circles. Any Ideas?
I have also noticed this. I have selected gyroid infill for most of my prints and it seems to have helped a littleā¦but at higher then normal speeds it is definitely making a grinding noise.
Following thisā¦
From my experience this sound is caused by low resolution model.
If you export a 3D drawing from your CAD software into a STL file, you can usually select a resolution like coarse, medium and fine. This setting defines the number of triangles when generating the STL file.
Here are three examples of the same (perfectly round) drawing exported to STL file with coarse:
medium:
and fine setting:
Due to the high acceleration of the X1C, you can clearly hear every single straight line of movement which causes the strange humming sound. You would not be able to hear this with a printer runngin āUsualā accelerationsā¦ 
So to get rid of this noise, simply use STL files of higher resolution.
Hope this makes sense.
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Yup thatās was the problem thanks!
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Will increasing the resolution make the print time longer?And will it overall increase the print quality and strength or is it just the reduced the printing noises?
Is STEP or 3MF files even better, or simply resolution, no matter what format?
I am still learning and have terrrible grating\grinding\rattle noises no matter what model I print, so trying to learn how to determine a āgoodā model\file from a badā¦
In general terms STEP is better than STL. STEP files capture more detailed engineering information than STL files which are a basically a series of triangles.
3MF is different as it is a āzipā file containing the model (STL or STEP), slicer settings, thumbnail image, gcode etc.
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Hmmm, I have four new X1-Cs and only one of them makes the grinding noise, when printing the same cylindrical part.
When all printers were new two months ago, I printed the benchy on each printer, and only that one printer makes the noise.
I wonder if thereās something loose in the print head assembly that is vibrating, but when I push on things, nothing seems to move.
Any ideas?
did you ever figure it out? I just got a 2nd p1s and my other one doesnt do this, but the new one doesā¦
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Theyāre sending me a replacement belt to see if that makes a difference. Iām about ready to just ask for a replacement printer. This has been going on long enough. Iām afraid to run the printer because it sounds like itās damaging something.
Clearly that noise isnāt good for it.
Okay, that was the input I needed lol. Still in my micro center return window so I am going to go ahead and take it back, thanks for the input. It seems to print flawlessly but the grinding and rattling has me a little unsettled after spending so much on it.
Following! good luck getting it fixed.
This is a brand new printer for me too. I bought it directly from Bambu. All Iāve done is run rattly test prints on it.
Iām will to do a little testing to save them some shipping cost but frankly Iām not a printer repairman. I donāt work for Bambu. They work for me (and us)
If this belt thing doesnāt fix it then itās going back because itās currently worthless to me and this is their responsibility to make right.
The solution seems to be lubricating the Y-Axis rods with the included white lithium grease.
So the rods on the sides that run front to back, can be coated with a fairly thick layer of lithium grease. (Be careful not to get grease on the belts of course) I pushed the head to the back, then globbed some of the included grease onto the guide rod, and ran the head forward and back a few times, so the bearings would spread it a bit on the rod. then with the head forward, I put more grease on the rods right behind the bearings and pushed the head backward, continuing to spread the grease on the rod.
It doesnāt spread very much. Mostly the bearings leave fine tracks in the grease. Bu then I ran the same circular test print and it was remarkably quiet. No horrible rattling or harmonic resonation.
Also note: I read that lithium grease dries out after 6 months or so. That could explain why one of my brand new printers wasnāt well lubricated. If that printer sat in a warehouse a few months longer than the others, thatād do it.
And it might also explain why some people have this issue crop up suddenly out of nowhere.
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Thanksā for sharing the update Iāll give mine a go as well and itās making this noise from new for me but it might have been in the warehouse for a while
Late replyā¦ Comparing STEP and STL is like comparing a vector to a raster file. A vector file is a more precise representation of geometry. Much like comparing a circle described as a point and a radius vs a circle described as many short line segments. Thereās a lengthy thread on this here and loads of other info online:
And the link to What Is The Difference Between STL & STEP Files? (Explained) - Loudspeaker & Acoustic Engineering Design near the top of this thread has incorrect information in the table comparing when to use STEP vs STL files - STEP files are supported by all modern slicers, can be used for 3D printing and are actually better. If you sketch a model in CAD, then rather print using the STEP file than an exported STL file - the print will be better.
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This is 100% a slicing problem. When the resolution is at default it is set to .012mm. This produces a lot of circular infill and walls to output gcode in a million G1 interpolation moves. You want G2 and G3 moves for arcs and circles if at all possible. Adjust the resolution to .024mm and all that noise will go away.
It really helps for users to educate themselves what the gcode means and you can view it for each part slice to trouble shoot things.
I own a machine shop and this is even the same on cnc machines except when you spend 100ās of thousands of dollars for a machine control it has very powerful computing power to ''Look ahead" of the gcode as it is running and smooth with acceleration and deceleration so those G1 interpolation moves feel smooth in the machine.