I have a thread where another member suggested some upgrades to my printer. I decided to create this thread because it differed from the original content and intent of my previous thread.
I’ve been looking at the Bambu Lab store. I think it might be time to upgrade my printer… what are some good things to buy? I know I want some sort of smooth plate, and likely a smaller nozzle for prints that require more precision… any thoughts?
Line the inside with aluminum tape.
Another AMS.
Chamber heater.
Advanced filtration system.
Another AMS.
AMS HT.
Boom Matt for sound insulation.
Engineering plate.
Another AMS.
Diamond Back nozzle.
High flow nozzles.
Then and only then, you can add another AMS.
I am starting to get the feeling you like having a few AMS’s 
What would you recommend for the first upgrades? I am not looking for anything too extreme or hands-on, my budget is pretty small as well.
If you print a lot of TPU, you could get the new TPU feed assist module. 
A 2nd identical build plate would be my first upgrade - for faster swaps between prints - avoiding the need to wait for cooldown.
A 3rd different type of build plate next.
Then more AMSs
Bambulab Liquid Glue, plus a spare complete hot end in case of failures.
Then to double print speed - a 2nd printer… 
I’ve come to appreciate having lots of build plate options. Sometimes your bottom matters a lot. Textured PEI is kinda a safe default, that pebble you know and love
The Biqu Glacier is a nice satin, mild shine
The classic smooth PEI plate is tactile smooth
The little holographic ones are kinda cheezy but do have their uses. Real eye catching from the rainbow effect.
Theres a carbon fiber weave fake-o pattern thats pretty sweet too. It ironically struggles to transfer to actual filaments with high carbon fiber lol
Duplicate Build Plates
More AMS Units
Make several Core Weights for nearly empty Filament Spools
The X1C is fine as it is.
Outside of build plates or nozzles, all the “cheap” upgrades either do nothing or are a waste of filament.
A second or third AMS is the first thing I would get.
The best upgrade to my X1C was adding an A1-mini + AMS and dedicating it to 0.2 nozzle service.
The second best upgrade was adding an A1-mini no AMS 0.4 nozzle for fast iteration prior to committing to the X1C.
The third best upgrade was adding a small laser table to cut paper templates for test fitting prior to moving to plastic.
Those were additions, not upgrades .
By offloading hours from the X to the A, the service life of the X is longer and my time is more productive.
I consider that an upgrade.
I agree with @drakko , it is a good addition. And a good idea considering you can get an A1 mini combo for the price of an AMS2.
But in all fairness, the service life of the X series is so long that I would not use that as a point.
Fair enough. I include in ‘service life’ the potential/ actual damage from swapping from 0.4 → 0.2 hot ends and back; the connection scheme is ‘version 1’.
The X is @ 3124 hours.
Wait for the X2, which should be coming soon, fingers crossed.
X1C is fine as is. My X1Cs have been running great with whatever that came with the printers. Never need to add or replace anything, except for taking out one clogged nozzle which was caused by my own error a long time ago.
get some biqu panda upgrades, or a different build plate
I so wish I could get another printer. I print a lot of things for school. I attend a massive school, so as you can imagine, the numbers of what I need to produce are up there! I think the H2C is one of the coolest machines I have ever seen. I have an X1C, which is a super reliable workhorse… but it takes a while on multicolor prints.
Thank you, @Bullocks, for taking the time to describe all of your build plates. I really appreciate this. As a person who has been in the hobby for a while (but is still new enough to only have one build plate) I really appreciate this practical use guide.
I just ordered the smooth PEI a few days ago. I have switched between plate types over the 5-ish years I have been printing. My first printer had the good ol’ glass plate… it was great until it got scratched. My second printer had a flexible PEI plate that was semi-rough, but not nearly as rough as the Bambu plate. I find it funny that I am in the market again for a smooth plate.
Just printed a riser for my X1 as I’m doing more PLA instead of ABS.Allose for extra air flow.
A chamber heater would be nice
Not an upgrade but a better choice:
Get an E3D nozzle, diamondback if affordable.
If you need more light print a sensible riser than stop printing plastic to add on to the printer. Just the riser and stop. Wait, print a side spool holder too. Then stop.
Buy a 4 way splitter so you can print from the spool holder without removing any PTFE tubes.
The build plates are a nice add on too.
Ignore any “improved prints” or the like on MW that do mostly nothing more than provide the placebo affect and imagined gains.
Read the wiki.
Read the wiki.
Don’t go looking for problems. Don’t “fix” something that isn’t broken because someone online swears it needs to be fixed.
Print. Just print. If a problem arises then go to the wiki first. Do the troubleshooting and document it as it’s done. If you can’t solve it you might want to ask here, but put in a ticket before you do. Trust me, will save a lot of headaches.
Like he said 
Read the WIKI! Thoroughly!!! Then read it again until you’re sure you’ve got it right.
Read it, then save it (the entire Wiki thing) as a PDF, someplace safe on your PC/Mac. One never knows when the WIKI might become unavailable, or even simply disappear (especially for a printer that’s discontinued).