X2D PLA Print flow rate isn't isn't fine - or some other issue?

Dear Bambu Community.
I did all the calibration Bambu is offering. I dried the Filament (over 8 hours) . I have tried to print several pieces and still I am struggling with the top and bottom surface. Since I see there holes which should not be there. holes between the lines and also small dots.
I had A1 mini before so I know it can be completely without these signs.
Printer firmware is updated and printer is standing on the floor so no vibrations.

Any advices what I can do ?

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Does this happen with other filaments? I’m having this issue on many of my Bambu PLA Matte spools. I measured them and they are all under-size. One even measured at 1.69mm on one axis. And it varies as you use the spool - you tune it, looks good, then on another part it looks bad because the filament is thinner at a different part of the spool.

I am having this same issue on everything I print. Filament is also dried 8hrs+ and stored in ams with desiccants. Ironing looks like garbage and is a bandaid for whatever is causing this problem.

Filaments:

  • bambu silk+ gold (pretty bad)
  • Bambu pla black, red, orange
  • bambu matte pla charcoal (worst printing)
  • inland matt pla (probably best printing but still as good as my old p1s)
  • bambu petg trans orange

I tried calibrations for flow dynamics and flow rate and there’s some slight improvement but I keep getting under extrusion through out the part and a cross hatch pattern on the top surface.

I also tried re-seating all the ptfe tubes, switching to print mainly from the ams1 vs my ams2 and turning off auto flow dynamics calibration. I’m wondering if it is a lack of enough power or something since I saw another thread saying the fans eat up almost an extra 100 watts.

I recommend using Develop mode and the top-line manual calibrations menu. (Not the Calibration tab next to Project.) The calibrations menu has a link to the Wiki tutorials for these tests.

In the first picture, the holes on the bottom surface occur where the nozzle changes direction; that’s a sign of incorrect pressure advance (aka flow dynamics). They are very small, so PA is very close, but not perfect. You don’t see individual filament lines, partly because of the texture, but mostly because the flow rate is good.

The top surface of the scraper shows underextrusion gaps between the filament lines, so the flow rate for that filament needs to be calibrated.

The flow rate samples can be difficult to judge in person and even more difficult to evaluate from a picture. Ignore the edges, look for the smoothest center. In the middle picture, these first-pass top and bottom rows are clearly bad; +5 is slightly overextruded, 0 appears to be the smoothest, and -5 is underextruded. Use the next value higher than the smoothest sample for the second-pass flow rate calculation. In this case, using +5 will create 10 second-pass samples between +5 and -5 to fine-tune the flow rate.
For example:

I usually calibrate every brand, type, and color of filament. Different colors are made using different ingredients, so even if they are the same brand and type, they often behave slightly differently.


Rename to remove the .3mf extension. Change the yellow fields as needed, top to bottom.
Flow calibration calculator.xlsx.3mf (7.4 KB)

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I find that I have to calibrate every spool, even if the same brand, type and colour (well, I just send the print and see what it looks like, then stop and eyeball a new flow ratio)

I have 2 spools of Bambu PLA Matte Desert Tan which are obviously from different batches (because of the slight colour difference), one measured at around 1.73mm diameter and one at 1.69mm :confused:

This is usually only an issue with the cheaper filaments like Bambu PLA’s and PETG’s and none of their more expensive ones like Bambu ABS-GF and Prusament.

OK so I did additional tests and it seems Z axis is to high, I lower it by 0,014 and first print is fine

Literally came here to say the same thing…

Just setup my new X2D and resliced a part I print all the time on my X1C. The ironing quality is awful, it just leaves a crosshatch effect. On the X1C it was like glass.

Really don’t have good first impressions of this printer. Starting to think the price was way lower than the X1C for a reason..

You’re not the first. Many more people are experiencing same issues with X2D, noticing that quality is subpar compared to previous models, even the most basic one’s (like A1 Mini). For now, we have to wait for firmware update, in hope that Bambu is aware of this.

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It’s mad how they can release a product like this and we have to be the beta testers. I gave them the benefit of the doubt when the X1C launched because they were new to the game. The X2D should be the same or better out of the box. Really not happy so far.

The flow issue or whatever it is is so annoying. Still haven’t fixed it. Either I get under extrusions or crosshatches. Gave up and filled some prints with bondo but not a long term solution. I noticed the aux nozzle prints better quality and that is WILD after all the scaremongering on its supposed bad quality.

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The new firmware update had something about nozzle offset or first layer optimisations but I don’t see any difference :confused:

I know there is a manual offset tuning option but I hadn’t had to do that since my Ender days. It was fine on my P1S, A1 mini, P2S and H2D, why is it so off on the X2D I wonder.

Did you ever figure this out? I’m on the same boat, trying to purposefully overextrude and even then I get crosshatches

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Same experience with mine.

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I’m having the exact same issues with X2D. Gaps between the lines on top layer. Can be helped with dynamic flow calibration to some degree. My good old P1S prints perfectly with the same filament.

Still working through troubleshooting with support. Right now they are having me manually level the heat bed. Going to calibration and then manual first layer calibration, setting it to -.02 helped some.

Where can this be done?

Any before and after pics? My first layer smoothness is fine, at least smooth as my a1 mini for sure

On your x2d, from the touchscreen menu, tap the gear, then calibration, then look for first layer calibration under the manual calibration section.

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Matte Grey before

orange after changing the first layer calibration to -.02

first layer orange before

red first layer after

Example of the cross hatched texture printed before troubleshooting in silk+ gold

I’ll try but I think I have a different issue. According to the calibration in the slicer these 2 have the exact same flow multiplier. (Below chip 5 at 1.05 flow, above the pass 0 of the second pass where I choosed the chip 5) Should be the same and the below one is way more overextruded