I just got some Sainsmart PETG-HF (High Flow) that is supposed to be great for high speed printing.
So far it definitely seems to be able to print faster than PETG I’ve tried from other brands. But, it’s so much more brittle. I don’t just mean along the layer lines. When I tried to flex a print not along layer lines it broke quite easily.
If that is just part of how this filament is, than I don’t think it’s probably a good choice. You would be better off just using a PLA + unless you just use PETG for the heat resistance. But I use it for being less brittle, and the heat resistance.
I’m hoping I just need to figure out better settings, but I would think if it’s not layer adhesion related, there may not be any settings that make it less brittle.
I have not tested the Sainsmart petg hf but increase the nozzle temperature if you are using 255c it’s too low for high speed petg printing and you will get bad layer bonding.
Go to 270c or 280c and test it out on a big test part on infill not a temp tower you want your speed high when testing.
Also set your part fan lower this is what I use for big parts and high speed but I will adjust for the part min print speeds sometimes or off.
PETG is designed to be printed hot and its bonding is dependant on it. Speed is not its friend. the faster you print the colder the extrusion is since it has not had time to fully soak. This is also why you should not use fans with PETG since that also messes its quality bond.
Your real best bet is get the High Flow ObXidian or the new Revo for Bambu which also have high flow nozzles so you can properly heat the filament and then gain the speed properly vs a watered down PETG that is not fully PETG since they had to tweak the formula Thats my opinion if you are trying to go faster but to me quality always wins out over speed and speed does not equil quality especially in PETG or higher end filaments.
I’ve been curious about the CHT nozzle. Were you able to get one on your X1 that is the same length as the original? I had heard about issues with it being too long.
Have you had any negative issues with the CHT set up? Also, which kind did you go with?
So i have Revo’s on my other printers creality and Prusas and have two on the way for my two x1c’s and the best part is i can share nozzels across all my printers. These are my first fast printers but again i dont print fast since i want the best quality. I can come back and give feedback once they arive but the flow on the Revos are 2x to 3x from what the stock nozzles are so speed printing with the proper soak should not be your issue with these.
Also with how bambu returns the filament back to the AMS the nozzle is always ready to be changed and would only take a few seconds.
Click on the high flow tab to see the flow values.
Also you asked if there is a diffrence. No they are the exact length both the new ObXidian and the revos. Also the PID are the same so no special tuning or tweaks. there will be no retro fitting its plug and play on the printer side
Also not suggesting you to buy them just giving you options if you are truly chasing speed. I personally if the option is out there will always use these nozzles never had a single issue and again i get to shre them across all my machines makes life so much easier
I only print in PETG, ASA, ePA-CF just if you wonder what filaments i use.
In that photo of nozzles there are three types the brass with no ring are normal flow, the one with 1 rings are High Flow, and the Black ones are ObXidian Also waiting on my new diamondback revos
If you run the bondtech cht nozzle you have to mod the hot end on version 1 the version 2 hot end is Not the best one for the bondtech nozzle mod.
If you run the aftermarket cht clone steel nozzle for the version 1 or 2 hot end you don’t have to modify anything and it works better than the stock hot end.
Also the cht nozzle will need more cleaning to get the old filament out if you are switching filament types.
I also want to test the BIQU panda hot end for the cht nozzles but it is not out yet.
@masc2279 I’m not “chasing speed”. Rather, I don’t like how much slower regular PETG prints compared to other materials. Both from a time perspective, and the VFA caused by the slow speeds. I noticed the High Flow version of PETG, so I figured I would try it in the hopes that it would be closer to PLA speeds, but with the flex/toughness/heat resistance of PETG.
@3DTech What do you mean by version 1 and 2 hot end? Do you mean that Bambu has put out 2 different types of hot ends for the x1? I’ve been printing for over 15 years, but just got the Bambu about a month ago. So I assume I have the latest hot end. Are you saying that the after market one should work fine on the x1 with no mods other than swapping out the original hot end for the new one?
There is another issue that i am thinking will happen but wont know more till it arives is its going to need allot more purge to clear the color from the system since there are three paths on the HF nozzles and there is no guarantee that your going to get it all out at the normal rate since the path can flow thru 1,2 or all three paths at diffrent times due to pressure and build up but will see
Single color prints not issues but i am guessing that there will be with lots of AMS color changes
Yes the cht nozzles do take longer to clear out filament so depending on what color or filament types you are mixing you might choose a single hole nozzle.
The best solution is when you can swap nozzles types
This is true raise heat and push speeds … but watch out for any part of your print that slows way down then PETG at really high temps 280ish can be the down fall and clog. LOL
None of this is relating to my question though. The point is that Sainsmart (and I assume others do or will make it) has a PETG that is rated as high flow. It does not matter that you can crank up the heat on regular PETG. I’m trying to find other people that have used the HF stuff to find out if it was brittle for them as well.
When I turn up the heat on regular PETG it gets stringy. When I try to print it fast enough to not cause VFA on the side walls, but not crack up the heat, it can’t melt fast enough to keep up with even 200mms.
When I use the new HF PETG, it doesn’t have those issues with not melting fast enough, nor stringing at slightly higher temps (though it did when I got over 270). But the problem (as I mentioned in the original post) is that the plastic seems brittle like PLA, though not quite as much. I’m assuming that what ever they mixed into the PETG to make it work better when printing faster, is also hurting it’s toughness. That is what I’m trying to find out.
Well there has been a few of these new High speed PETG. You can look up Elegoo Rapid PETG as well. And yes looking at the reviews for all these high flow PETG’s they do have the same issue. They do not give the same way as pure PETG and are brittle.
It would have to have issues, they are mixing things into it to make it high flow which changes the characteristics of the true PETG
Also looking thru Reddit they are claiming 20 to 30% loss in strength from real PETG. Granted its from multiple sources and cannot be verified but you are clealy not alone.
