Recived my A1 yesterday did initial calibration and printed benchy all fine.
Tried swatch holder that comes pre sliced on the machine and it scrapes on all infill layers like crazy, there was no curling or lifting.
Yes, all files that come with the SD Card have the Z-hop a little⌠aggressive. 
I donât know, maybe BBL prioritizes velocity over quality or reliability in these examples. Do you notice that in each print, during the sequence of starting the print, the extruder tries to extrude the filament before the filament reaches the fusion temperature? It sounds like a cracking or something similar.
Sorry Iâm a bit confused but shouldnât Z-hope prevent this scenario? What I observed is that nozzle was actually scraping infill when moving to other location creating loud noise.
I havenât noticed cracking sound on extrusion but I will pay more attention next time.
Prints knocked off
A1 1.01.01.00
Worked fine for the first month
You must not be aware that when you use the Bambu Lab default 0.08 layer height setting, the default setting for the first layer is 0.2
Go look at the profiles.
Had ZERO problems at 0.08 with the textured plate. Print all the time on the P1S at that height too.
0.08 mm as the first layer on a textured plate? 
I think you misunderstood. He is saying first layer is 0.2 by default on 0.08 profile.
Hmm. I believe there might be a misunderstanding regarding the second paragraph of @Quietmanâs comment. What Iâm trying to convey is that achieving a first layer height of 0.08mm on a textured PEI plate seems very challenging. I agree that setting the first layer at 0.2mm and the rest at 0.08mm should pose ZERO issues with the textured PEI plate, and there shouldnât be any problems with any other plate type, as the plate type shouldnât affect the other layers.
I donât think @Quietman is trying to do 0.08 first layer but I may be wrong.
Also I saw on a facebook group that someone was having first layer nozzle dragging issues and it ended up being the four screws on the backside of the hotend heating assembly were loose
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Just to make sure, its mostly in the infill section rightâŚthe main walls and supports donât drag?
Donât use the default rectilinear infill, by default it makes your nozzle crash into every cross section already printed and it adds up.
Use Gyroid, no crossing, no extra build up and no nozzle crashing.
There may be other hardware issues or prints warping but in general if everything is as it should this is the fix.
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This pretty much fixed my issue. Stringing is worse but Iâd rather have that than prints being knocked off once they get any measure of height.
Thanks!
Nope, youâre not wrong. I leave the first layer at 0.2
Was unable to try the taller print with the old firmware. I went to do one and the printer parked the extruder off the left side of the build plate with the nozzle below the top of the bed and would not move without a factory reset.
After that happened I did the A1 firmware update.
Hi all,
New to 3D printing, using A1 with AMS. I was also having issues with
parts getting knocked over. After some trial and error, and following the
many suggestions from helpful folks, I was able to print
a fairly complex item with lots of overhangs. I cleaned the plate with dish soap
(was using alcohol). Printed at normal speed, basic PLA, .04 nozzle, 0.12
high quality. I used the following settings:
The above increased the print time quite a bit, but I was happy
to get a clean part. It makes me wonder about the Bambu Studio
default settings though. I may try Gyroid in the next print as
sugested in an earlier post. Anyway, still learning!
CheersâŚ
2 Likes
What kind of plate do you use that it had 35°C as default value? Even the newer 55°C is lower than the default value of 65°C, using the default textured plate that comes with A1. If you have a cool plate itâs probably fine, but if you have only the default textured plate that comes with A1, make sure you selected the proper textured plate in the settings.
Anyway, I solved my issue in the end. I had a problem with multiple objects and the nozzle dragging on some of the prints and ruining some objects or the nearby ones, most likely on the standard infill that intersects. This is when I had multiple objects all over the plate. It worked fine with one object in the middle. I tried all the maintenance things from the wiki. It turns out the bed level was uneven. Using the instructions on the wiki for manual bed leveling (tramming) I discovered that using their custom gcode with no plate, the nozzle was pushing into the bed on one side and there was quite a gap on other side. After using paper and manual calibration, things got fixed.
So, in my case, dragging on the default infill (the one that intersects) was most likely caused by the uneven bed on a side, but worked fine in the middle with one object, most likely because automatic bed leveling was compensating just fine on such low surface, and it wasnât on the side/margin. Now, even the default infill works fine.
This might be a solution for just my case. Other printers, other problems. I guess it makes sense. After delivery (transportation), things might have been moving inside. I had to go through all the maintenance steps, like belts tension, oiling and greasing, and manual bed leveling to discover my own issue.
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Good catch!..I had the wrong plate selectedâŚwhat a noob! 
ThanksâŚ
Mine is doing the same thing. If Iâm doing larger prints, you hear it hit all the time the smaller ones I canât complete itâll knock something off of the print tray and then starting over.
I am the owner of a brand new A1 and got exactly same issues. After updating the software to latest version. My previous print on older version was beautiful, no problems. I have opened Ticket No: US240127776002 and waiting for their customer support to finally respond! I am closer to return this printer back and buy another printer from different manufacturer. I donât have a time for support. I am not able to print anything as of now. Not able to downgrade the software.
Could be a few things
- Clean PEI plate with warm soapy water
- Remove hotend, remove 3 screws holding hotend heating assembly to extruder, tighten the 4 screws on the back of the heating assembly that are holding the front metal part on and do a calibration
- Follow Wiki instructions to tram the bed
- Print flow test in orca slicer to check for overextrusion
- Print a first layer that takes up full plate to check for issues
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I did every thing that you list here and still happens. The nozzle stratch every single print, especially at the internal solid infill, and internal bridges.