Enclosure ideas

The enclosure is an IKEA Plasta

PLATSA Korpus, weiß, 60x55x60 cm - IKEA Deutschland

Seams that there is no equivalent in the us

Petition · IKEA bring PLATSA to the USA · Change.org

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There is a dry box design for the AMS Lite on Makerworld. Search for “Dry Box for AMS Lite”. It would be a good starting point to create and enclosure that would include the printer below the AMS Lite.


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I´m really hapyy with my enclosure. :wink:


I have the same problem with my Ikea Lack. The cable is too short. Bambu Support does not recommend extending cables or hoses as the AMS may no longer work as expected. I will still try and buy the 4m PTFE tubes from Bambu and make 4 individual strands of 1m each.

I will extend the 4-pin data cable with another data cable from Bambu, i.e. turn two cables into one slightly longer one. For me this seems to be a cheaper option instead of making an extension myself with Molex connectors.

Does anyone see any concerns?

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What door are you using here? I haven not been able to find a glass door for Platsa?

Hi im sorry for writing here but i dont know how to create a post myself. Im thinking of buying either the p1s or the a1 and wanted to ask if i build a enclosure for the a1 can i print abs and similiar filament like nylon or nylon-cf ? otherwise i would go for the p1s since its enclosed and capabale of printing these.

The basic difference is if you want a project or a tool. Yes the A1 could probably have an enclosure built around it that would allow high tech materials to be printed but it will take a lot of work, trial and error to get it right. On the other hand the P/X series prints them out of the box. I know what I would choose, I have far to many projects as it is.


Hey ya’ll, building a dry box for my AMS Lite. Managed to get a large enough box to house the AMS Lite within, but the geometry of my desk requires I place the feeder system outside the box, preferably mounted to the side of the box. Any idea what 12-pin cables are used to connect the feeder systems to the AMS Lite mainboard?



Both were mentioned but i cant varify either.

Hey, thanks for responding. I was referring to the two 12-pin cables from the feeder system that connect to the mainboard. I can’t include links or images with my posts yet, but they’re visible in the AMS lite Body Installation tutorial where they take apart the internals. The two longer rectangular connection points at the top.

Nice!! Did you make it from scratch or bought like this?

If you’re interested, extending the cable isn’t a problem. Even the longer tubes are no problem for the AMS. This is what the result looks like. It’s an A1 but that doesn’t matter.


Do you have any more details about your AMS box? How easy is it to change a spool?
Also, just in case you haven’t seen the A1 bed cable recall issue yet, you should check your bed cable is OK as it looks like it’s got a sharp bend pushed up against the wall and is at risk of getting damaged/starting a fire.

I used this one

But this only affects the solution for the AMS. The spools run on threaded rods and ball bearings.

Changing spools is easy. But in my case it is unfortunately not perfectly airtight. I have ~25% humidity which is not really good. There may be better systems. At least it protects against dust.

I have seen the message about the cable issues. But my cable is ok. In my case it looks worse then it is. It could be better but unfortunately there is no other way. I will still print the cable protection anyway.

How does the outlet looks like from the AMS lite thru the Lack table?

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Do the dimensions of the A1 fit perfectly into the IKEA LACK or did you leave it open at the back?

Nice…How about the surface of the table where the PTFE outlets to the A1?

My enclosure is actually open at the back. It fits in, but just barely. Look at the 220v power cable. I wouldn’t bend it any more. And the heating bed cable would be compressed even more if there was another plate at the back. Due to the current problems with the heating bed cable, I would advise against using a plate at the back. You can’t push it further forward because otherwise the print bed will push open the front window.

The last photo is with heatbed full extended

Your see there is not much room

It was just a first draft. The edges could be a little more rounded. But it works without any problems.