I received my fysetc CryoNix plate today. In short, it’s not a cold sticky plate. It’s just a different colored Biqu glacier plate. Same exact thermoset coating, just a different color.
The good:
it looks better than the glacier. I’m not a huge fan of the blue.
the coating looks good. Nice and even. Mild texture.
I expect this one to work just as good as the glacier for nylon and tpu.
It’s not the sticky cold plate I was expecting. For some reason I thought it was going to be a plate like the frostbite/DM ice/sliceworx dipped plates. It’s not.
Thanks for letting us know, was about to pull the trigger on it as well. Its weird its not a frostbite type as they list PLA/PETG on it and compare it to the frostbite in the marketing photos. I actually like the bright blue color as you can clearly see filament leftovers on it.
Not yet, but it’s definitely not a sticky plate. If you ever get the chance to feel or use a polyurea plate like the frostbite, you’ll immediately know what I mean.
How are you guys using such 3rd party build plates? Maybe I’m blind but I can’t find a way to select a custom build plate. The only way that worked so far is to e.g. select the textured PEI plate and then create a new filament profile, setting the temperatures for the textured PEI plate to the desired values. But that has the drawbacks that I can’t really select that from Bambu Handy and am forced to use Bambu Studio paying lots of attention on selected filament profiles, as well as producing the “Build plate marker not found” warning which I have to skip manually for every print. Is there a better way to do this?
A lot of the build plates have a QR code/pattern sort of. The QR code will line up with a smooth or textured plate. You can either use those settings or just modify the temps for certain prints. I haven’t tried any personally that don’t have a QR code, but I did use the glacier with textured (QR code on plate is smooth)and it said the build plate was different than the sliced file. All I had to do is Click ignore.
Turning off the build plate detection entirely isnt an option for me as this saved me from e.g. printing TPU on the super track on the X1C a couple of times already. On the H2D I gave the geco one a try now and that one can also be damaged with wrong materials.
Thanks for the hint on how to select the cool plate for the H2D. Sadly the geco plate also doest have a QR code on it… I guess i’ll print a sticker with a cool plate code for it myself then.
Yes I ripped my Geco with PLA silk. Its a crappy plate unfortunately, just a sticker on a metal plate. I guess we have to wait for Frostbite or Supertack for a proper cool plate for Silk and PETG.
I guess it’s just proportions. Pure polyurea might not be suitable for high temp? Supertack is also polyurea but it’s not as sticky as the frost bite (at least not on the same feel on hand)
I believe the supertack is actually polyurethane. Similar, but different.
I’ve used my polyurea plates up to 80°c without issue. Shouldn’t need more than that.
Polyurea at 65° with the chamber heat also at 65° might actually be the perfect combo for stuff like abs and nylon. Keeps everything the same temp so warping would essentially be eliminated, in theory. I don’t print abs and I haven’t tried nylon on a polyurea plate yet.
RIP the ripped Geco. I ripped the fist side with Silk, the other side is ripped too but now with regular Creality/Soylin black PLA, this plate is a POS. Was used with no heating before anyone asks.
But perhaps that one will already perform very similar to the Frostbite?