You should open a ticket with them and providing those pics and the project file.
This is something they need to fix asap.
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I am also having z layer issues, havenāt had a single print that Iāve been satisfied with after 250h compared to my x1c. I saw what Sergiu_I wrote aobut higher z prints becoming good and wonder if it is related to the z lead screws? On the x1c the z lead screws are supported on both ends by bearings, but on the H2D, the top of the lead screws are not supposed by anything and they can wobble aroundā¦ strange design choice.
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Not really tho, I have a long and deep background in 3D printing, Iāve worked on FDM printers for more then 8 years now, and as a profession Iāve worked as an engineer on WAAM metal 3D printers and now currently on Binder jetting 3D printers for ceramics.
My point is: A Bambu machine should work out of the box with Bambu fillament and a Bambu profile for that filament, for basic shapes this should it. Now of course of you are pushing the limits in terms of geometry or material that will most likely involve some tuning for the best result. But these Z banding issues should just not exist with: New Dry Filament in a New Calibrated machine, both from the same manufacturer. Thats my point, I bought this because I DONT want to create custom material profilesā¦
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If you do everything by the book and you have Z banding like this: In my opinion you are allowed to complain. Nevertheless here we are. Also never had any issues with my X1C and other printers for that matter
Which wall generator are you using? I once had some weird artefacts and when I changed from classic to Arachne, the artefacts were gone!
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Im going to give this a try! thanks for the suggestion
Ive now put my AMS2 next to the machine, but also changed a lot of other things tho (look at my other post of this morning). I have the feeling it helped a bit
I had to go to the machine and check what you saidā¦ I really cannot believe BL has saved 2$ on three ball bearings on their top line machine and turned the print quality for high Z inline with my 7 years old Anycubic. But I am wrong, a couple of months after I bought that Anycubic I have installed top bearings and it prints now beautifully at any Zā¦
Alright, i did a small test print after i upgraded to the newest beta firmware.
Also before that i did a bed tramming (H2D Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki)
The tramming was just because i am very dumb and while trying to make sure that every screw is tight i loosened one.
Thats undried (i live in a 60%+ Humidity Region) Bambu pla matte, standard 0.2mm profile.
One was printed with standard speed (200mm/s) and on with 80mm/s outer wall speed.
Can someone guess which is which? because i cant anymore.
Also there is virtualy no z banding anymore, i got way worst banding before on simliar easy shapes.
Gonna to some more test prints tomorrow but for now the new firmware seems to be promising.
The lead screws arenāt what keeps the bed and Z axis motion centered though, thatās what the Z axis guide rods do. Allowing the top of the lead screw to float mitigates any irregularities in the screw itself from transferring to the motion system and therefor the print.
So, the Prusa and BL have been just wasting bearings in all their models until April 2025?
Iām not here to question your experience and you donāt have to whip out your engineer card lol.
I agree, the thing should absolutely just work and it should work well with their own filaments and profiles. But that isnāt always a reality and we have to be ready to use our past experience and knowledge to correct the issues.
I gave you an example of just how bambuās own filaments donāt always work well with their profiles, and theirs many more examples just like that with other Bambu filaments. It is what it is and Bambu has provided the tools to correct it if we need to.
As for this whole Z banding thing, yes it should be a thing. I totally agree. Itās not for me and it shouldnāt be for you. The only difference Iām seeing right now between us is that I calibrate my filaments and my print profiles and you donāt. If you donāt try, youāll never know. If it doesnāt work out or get you any closer to the goal, then so be it. At least you tried and have ruled something out.
My point is, just try. Use your engineering super brain and years of experience to diagnose the problem.
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I think I am wrong here. The difference with the H2D is that it has an additional guide rail so thats 3 points of contact and should be sufficient. Still, I wonder if 6 points would have added more stability?
Take a closer look at BL bearings on x1/p1 machines. The only thing making them touch the rod is a silicone rod cap or spacer. Theyāre not hard mounted. The only BL printers that had solid mounted Z screws were the first batch of x1-cās and they quickly realized the problems it was causing.
I donāt own any prusa machines, but Iām almost positive their upper lead screws are not constrained either.
Thats correct. The lead screws on the prusa xl are just inside a 3d printed part thats even made to wobble. They are not fixed.
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Points taken, and I am trying as hard as I can to use my super brain to work this out but I also have a print job I took on to finish in a time frame thats about the same time it would take to print everything, so I can only change things between jobs and I need to be fairly certain they are going to improve and not worsen the result.
That being said this is the picture of this morning:
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I do not know, in 2010 this print would have been great 
But on a 2.5k machine in 2025 this print is simply NOK.
Just for comparison - a modded 0,25k machine printing Z400mm before 2020:
I took a closer look and indeed, there is no hard mounting. But I have never mentioned hard mounting - what we need is a (free) rod end displacement limitation system, in order to avoid any resonance phenomena in the long Z-screws. On all decent machines I know, the free rod end can displace in Ć0,5mm or less. On BL H2D the free rod end can displace in Ć5mm or more and I am pretty sure the vibrations coming from the motors match a few times on a full Z length the natural frequencies of the rod = nasty resonance = Z-bandingā¦
Can you post the speed, flow, and layer time previews for this print? Also, is that ācornerā right in front the seam area?
The combination of the latest beta firmware, arranging the PTFE tubes to reduce friction and sticking to the belt tensioning procedure finally solved it on my machine.
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