I had the same issue, and some of the suggestions worked well for me.
Turning AUX fan off helped to avoid warping. Some PLA went well related to sticking at the bed during printing, but some went loose.
Updating the bed to aliexpress item 1005004847413858 and the feet to aliexpress item 1005006054403476 (sorry I can’t add links, search for the item numbers at the aliexpress site) helped me to print well at high speed with materials that went loose before.
i also have the same problem, it turns out it was the filament, try drying out your filament or change the brand of the filament, mine warpped with elegoo WHITE pla, i dont know why but the BLACK elegoo pla is perfect yet the white one warps, try using sunlu PLA +, esun PLA+, bambu Basic pla. i havent tried anything else but those are the ones i use, and they dont warp as easily as elegoo
I had the same warping problem with PLA. Dry filament, different rolls, and both textured and cold plates, cleaned, ipa, with and without glue stick. When new these plates worked perfectly. A few months of inactivity when I moved and then parts began unsticking. 3x3” square base + brim would print a perfect first layer, but by the time I had 1/8” thickness down, it would lift at the corners and unstick completely.
I wondered if the chemical composition of the surface or the free energy had changed. I sanded the whole surface of the cold plate with 320 grit sandpaper until fogged, cleaned it, and now it’s printing the same part perfectly. I will update this post if it begins failing, but it looks like sanding down the surface with fine sandpaper may have exposed a fresh PEI surface, which is now sticking.
In addition, if the object to be printed is simple and without overhangs or long bridges, and if your layer times are long enough, you can turn-off the part-cooling fan for the entire duration of the print. The default slicer settings for PLA are the exact opposite: they have the part-cooling fan set to 100% for the entire duration of the print.
I bought a P1P 14 months ago and have had excellent results using the textured plate with no adhesive. Prints won’t usually release until the bed has cooled down. Up until last week that is. Now I have prints falling off the bed and warping, with 2 different reels of PLA and 2 of PLA+ (both new). In desperation I’ve ordered a smooth plate to try, but have to ask the question ‘Does the textured plate wear out?’. Is this my problem?
There may be filament deposits that you cannot see directly and that will affect adhesion during the next prints. Perhaps the filament is damp or the nozzle is dirty. Yesterday I also had a problem with my Cool Plate. The prints wouldn’t stick in some places. And although I used glue stick. Filament has clearly pulled threads even though it is in the AMS with desiccant. Filament comes off the plate and forms lumps on the nozzle. I then cleaned the cool plate with baby wipes and rubbed it with alcohol pads, just to be on the safe side. I applied new glue stick and put the filament in the dryer during this time. Rinsed the nozzle with cleaning filament and then cleaned the outside. All in all, it worked. But don’t ask me why the prints suddenly stopped sticking, the Cool Plate seemed to be really slippery in some places. As if there was grease on it, I couldn’t figure it out.
The short answer is: yes. If you ask Bambu, they’ll tell you it’s a consumable. It’s not warrantied against normal wear and tear.
There are ways to revive it and extend it’s life, but some of the more aggressive methods will add to the wear and hasten its inevitable demise. Mabey not immediately, but some day.
Some people take very good care of their plate, and still have the original factory issued one from 2 years ago. That still doesn’t mean it won’t wear out eventually.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve just tried the new smooth PEI plate and everything is good, and the PLA is sticking like glue to it until it’s cooled down even with nothing added to the surface. The textured plate I was using was cleaned with IPA
…but this made no difference, so I tried very hot soapy water. Again, no success. I’ve now tried Acetone to see if this works and will give it a go once the latest test print has gone through. This problem started last week when I first used some new PLA+ filament and I’m wondering if the oils from it are the root cause. I will update this thread after I’ve done some further testing.
Cleaning the textured PEI plate with acetone worked perfectly and it’s now performing just as it did 12 months ago.
While searching on the internet for solutions I came across a comment from a PRUSA engineer, who reported that they cleaned their bed plates every day to achieve best performance. I will certainly start to clean mine with acetone on a regular basis although monthly should suffice
Having same issues, stating out of no where when trying to print a large 250mm x 150mm flat plate and warped bad when only a 5mm high into print. Since then been printing 100 x 50 x 10mm high test prints and still getting the warping. Had the printer a few months and been fine up until now.
Filament is dried
Bed temp 60c
Nozzle 220c
Esun pla ss
Aux fan off
Lid off and door open
Textured pei plate
No cooling for 1st 3 layers
It’s driving me mad.
Even the surface finish seems to have got worse all of a sudden. I thought I had everything dialled in well and was printing very nicely just seems to have gone down hill.
Even printing with rectilinear infil doesn’t seem right, leaving blobs and scratching sound as if crossing over when I thought rectilinear didn’t do this.
Reluctant to by another plate just yet as hardly been used, maybe try some bambu filament IDK.
It (along with PETG, ABS, ASA, ABS CF, PLA Glass Fiber, etc… everything except PCTG) warps and falls off when I do flow rate calibration (or really any print). It’s common regardless of filament manufacturer… honestly, cheaper brands seem to do better than premium. Kingroon is the one I have the best success with.
What I’ve tried:
Thoroughly cleaning with HOT water and Dawn dish soap.
Made 100% sure the AUX fan was off
Glue Stick (Magigoo designed for the materials I’m printing - works about 30% of the time when I do this)
Increasing bed temps (I’ve tried everything from cold to 90C)
Replacing the build plate
Printing slower
Printing faster
Printing thinner lines
Printing thicker lines
Moving to a different part of the bed
I’ve used a thermal probe to verify that the bed is evenly heating
The ONLY thing that’s consistently worked is using my old Creality machines (Ender 3, CR-10S Pro V2). But they’re slow.
If I could have got Bambu to respond to my customer service requests and requests to return the product I would have replaced it a long time ago. I truly think I just got a bad one. Unfortunately, I’ve sent dozens of requests and have never ever heard back from them.
So, now I’m turning to you, the community, for help. What am I overlooking?
Can you take a picture of the bottom surface of a print? I am interested in macro picture, not blurry fisheye picture.
Picture will tell a tale better than words.
From my experience, bed adhesion problem only because of:
Gap too high, filament was not squeezed hard enough on the bed
Bad bed surface, contaminated or just non-compatible material for bed
Normally, bed adhesion achieved by vacuum suction rather than chemical bond. Only PETG + PEI or PETG + Glass will have trong chemical bond so that glue stick in this case is used as release agent instead of bond agent.
Alcohol is also not a good degreaser for build plates. It allows a slow buildup.
Go to the cleaning gold textured plate thread.
Quick recommendations here.
Dawn DOES work w/o leaving a residue but you use the hottest water you can get out of your tap.
These methods were ok’d by BL support.
Simple Green mixed at the grease cutting ratio. Rinse in really hot water.
Dishwasher- no non spotting detergents. In fact, the cheap dry detergent with NO additives works best.
You forgot to mention that the filament is dry and include some pictures of problems if possible, multiple angles as warping can sometimes be based on the way walls meet bottom surfaces etc…
I am having the same issue with my P1S and is driving me nuts too.
My PLA prints are always warping on the left side when looking at the printer. I am using textured plate that came with it and have tried all kinds of settings. Iam using Overture PLA i have tried sunlu with same results. I never had these issues with my other printers KINGROON’S and CREALITY’S and i have printed many of things. I always use an alcohol prep pad after every print ive tried the smooth and textured bed plate with same results i have turned AUX fan off put bed to 60c and print with top off and door open. I do print alot with TPU 95a and 98a and never have 1 issue with adhesion they stick great but for some reason with PLA it seems to lift on the same corner over and over. I know i had glass beds on my other printers but with the bambu when it was new it was fine and also i have a friend with the P1P and has no issues whatsoever using factory textured bed with cheap PLA and never has a problem with warping i even sent my files that i designed thinking maybe something was designed wrong but nope they print great on his and not on mine. I dont get it either but its really annoying with a printer at this price and cant even print simple PLA without a problem.
I notice there are a larger number of people, who has experienced with creality and all, come to the forum for help with PLA than the number of people who has almost zero experience of 3D printing before.
I thought PLA was easiest to print and almost fool proof.
Do you know, IPA leaves residue that you can never see with naked eye? And generally, IPA just smears the grease, if there is, not remove it.
Even you don’t see it, but there is residue of TPU left on the plate. TPU does stick very well to PEI, even forming chemical bond to PEI surface. Some people reported that they had to sand the plate, wet sanding 800grit, to get the plate back to work.
You should use a dedicated plate for each plastic and don’t mix them up. I believe a build plate now is cheaper than 1 roll of PLA. It’s even cheaper if you consider aliexpress alternatives.
