Hi, my solution when brims aren’t enough is to put very thin walls around the corner of the object, I think it will help to protect the print against the cold air and it also creates a bigger brim. It’s far from a perfect solution and it’s boring to do, but it works for me
On Cura I remember there was a option to do this automatically, but I didn’t find it on Bambu Studio.
Use alcohol not soap. Soap will promote this problem. In the electronics industry it was found that using soap in a cleaners would leave a residue that were almost impossible to remove. It wasn’t much of an issue until MOS devices were invented. Also get a lint free cloth to apply the alcohol, you don’t want paper fibers getting in the way.
Make sure to have the correct build plate selected in the top left of the slicer window or it will print at a lower bed temp. When you create a new 3mf file cool plate is standard and for pla the bed temp is 35 C which doesnt work very well for the textured pei sheet.
Hi RipCityPilot. Until U find the real cause of your warping problems, maybe setting the brim object gap to 0 helps keeping the object down on the plate.
Hi Everyone.
I know it’s been a while, but the problem was the Bambu Labs hot plate. I got a new plate off Amazon and use glue. Have not had an issue in months (I also turned off the Aux fan for PLA).
Hey ! Actually I got warping as well every time I had a corner close to the aux fan. I just stopped it, add few brim and it doesn’t wrap anymore at all ! I use Sunlu PLA+. Bambu Lab filament is always sold out. Never had the chance to buy some.
I ordered an additional bundle with my X1C and AMS which included a bottle of 3D LAC, I started with the gluestick but hated the peeling and having to wash all my printed parts, I then gave the 3d LAC a go and it is like night and day, no peeling and the parts just need a wipe over with a damp cloth, the parts stick extremely well to the cool plate I am using, a bit too well. when I flex the plate an edge usually breaks free but I then have to slide a scraper underneath to release the print but they are easily removed with it, maybe this can solve the warping issue!
Hi there, in my P1S with PEI plate and nothing else never and ever have had a warp problem.
My routine and settings:
pei textures and esun PLA+
bed temperature 60
noozle temp 220 for the firs layer then 215
50mms speed for the first layer
no fan until the 3rd layer after that 100% hotend and 50% aux Chamber always 0%
After say 15 prints depend on the size I will turn the plate and use the other part, after other 15 prints I will wash just with very warm water soap and steel wool 000, then wash very well until when make a noise under my finger ( I hope you understand, same noise when plates are clean and totally degreased) then I dry out with a special cloth for drink glasses.
I print a lot of very small parts and also large and log, like some pots and never had warping…
Now to everyone - contradicting ideas on which fan to turn off.
I print PLA with the lid off and the door open, which fan should I turn off - chamber or AUX? And should I leave the door open?