The problem with your PLA part is that it warping up off of the bed and this results in the poor bottom surface finish and distorted part.
How are you cleaning your bed(s)? Contaminants such as oils from your hands are the most probable cause for adhesion loss. There are lots of detailed threads here on cleaning your bed. Dishsoap and hot water.
Have you tried printing the PLA part on the textured PEI bed? The supertack bed seems to work great for some, and not so great for others.
Hello,
Yes, I have a dehumidifier in the printing area so that the humidity does not rise above 55%.
I store the filaments in cereal boxes with silica gel and I have the drying device in the AMS lite.
I didn’t believe humidity was the issue in the room or the filament.
The A series (which I own) doesn’t have the enclosures that the P and X series (which I also own).
This means larger surface area prints are more susceptible to losing adhesion at the outer edges as the heater unit isn’t designed to extend all the way to the edges outer edges of the build plate.
Because of this any changes in the temperature, like draughts can cause delamination.
(by the way. to get the prints off easy. they fall off by themselves if you let the plate cool off 5 minutes below 30ish degrees from its 65 heated bed temps)
So to make sure you understand the problem, the bed is heating up fine and when air currents in the room blow over the bed it cools it so much in certain spots that the plastic “warps” upwards and does that.
Literally the part you find hard to get off the plate? it’s doing the opposite and release itself which is why you let the plate cool 5 minutes haha. The air draft is doing it for you (which you don’t want)
The A series is supposed to have issues with tents but in cold regions you need them there is no other way. I’m in canada and it’s -20 outside, inside i try to keep it 22-25ish C…to not cook to death with the family running around. Inside my tent it’s about 28-30ish C…as if it was a hot summer day and I have a vent at the top but NO FAN inside the tent. The only fans are on the printer doing their thing and the air flap open at the top.
I can print perfectly like this no warping. Hope that helps!
Haven’t already, clean your bed. Dish soap and a scrub daddy works fine for me. Scrub it and make sure that the oil is scared and runs away. Let it air dry or use a microfiber cloth or if you really don’t want to wait for an air dry and don’t have a microfiber, use a hair dryer.
Next: check if you have secured the buckle on the printer correctly. Send a picture of the nozzle after taking off the cover and the silicon sock. None of that works, try @MalcTheOracle ’s advice. I’m also pretty much a newbie, not as much as you, but I post here from time to time. And as @Unique_Letterhead said, it’s too cold where you are. Probably. I don’t know how that works.
Always select “textured pei” when using the supertack plate. Selecting “textured pei” will keep the bed at 50-55c and will help prevent warping, unless as others have mentioned its too cold in the printer room.
Hello,
My difficulty in removing parts is with the cool tak plate, the textured plate comes off easily when it cools down.
I will definitely look into those kind of tents.
Now I am running some test with a textured plate, textured plate with 3DLAK i just bought and PETG (I ordered the same PETG for those first good prints). I will send pictures shortly.
Hello,
I always spray 99% isopropanol between prints. Do I need to wash it with soap occasionally?
As for the Nozzel, I’ve never removed it, but I’ll post a picture soon.
Isopropyl alcohol won’t remove oil or grease, it just spreads it more across your plate. Recommendation as stated here before is to regularly wash your plate using warm water and dish soap.
If you are spraying it with only isopropyl, you are just not gonna get good prints.
Bambu seems to not like the a1 series and as a result, they mount the nozzle incorrectly with the buckle. Happened to me. I didn’t realize until I found the first layer guide and realized that they mounted the buckle incorrectly.
Not an awesome idea. You can just change the temperature of the print bed in the print bed settings. If the printer thinks it’s a textured pei, calibration will fail on you. It will either dig too deep or be too high on the print bed. Not worth it.
The top one with textured plate and the bottom one with textured plate + 3DLAC. A slight improvement in both compared to “Cool Tack”.
In the two photos below, the test after downloading the model again! (I can’t explain what happened). I’ve never used the handyapp to start a print.
