You can’t. The hotend is one unit with heat brake, melting zone and nozzle being a single unit which in my opinion is a great design choice.
If you want exchangeable nozzles, there are 3rd party replacements for standard M6 nozzles.
I bought all nozzle sizes, but 0.6mm and 0.8mm are gathering dust. At 0.4mm, the mechanics already outperform the heater, so I see little use in the bigger sizes. Maybe 0.6mm for CF or similar filled filament. If you want more throughput, I would take a look at the E3D Obxidian nozzle. This one makes most sense as 0.6mm to me.
0.2mm is funny for really intricate stuff.
Don’t forget PC in your material lineup, I learned about it just recently and I’m surprised it didn’t cross my way before because it has so many nice properties.
For me, a second AMS is absolutely set, but I wait for black Friday sale. I really hate when I have to open it for exchanging a spool and the molecular sieve has to take up all the new moisture and I have to repackage the spool I have taken out.
I live 20 minutes away from Zurich, so just a stone’s throw away.
At first I thought I had to have 2 AMS, but I gave up on that idea. One is enough, if you want a second one based on your experience, you can always buy one more. AMS are nice but not every role fits e.g. 1.1 kg of Extrudr PETG, you have to unroll the first layers of the role sometimes and let them draw in loosely because they really pack the roll full. TPU is the silver bullet anyway (mechanical properties, chemical resistance, splintering behavior, UV resistanceand and 58D is no longer really soft but rather hard and so on) and there are huge drawbacks when it comes to TPU and AMS. You even have to bypass Bambulab’s specifications for TPU so that you can get TPU into the AMS since it can jame in the AMS if you do something role so they block it. Than you will go with TPU via the external non-AMS feed anyway…
May Dynamic price change, leave the page a few more times Strangely enough, for me the price continued continuously over the first 14 days, when it was up again I just came back in 5 min. later until the price was permanently down. Sometimes it’s also get up again, just reload the page and get 200-300 euros less…
Owning your own home is a good reason to spend more, but hello Inventor and Solidworks - reason enough to go all in… do you want to draw and design or just spend 1 hour on the printer more? Worry more about the printer 1 min. is 1 min. to much - These thing is there to spit out the stuff we need and not to tinker with it.
Most of those who comment on this on YouTube measure with calipers, I’m more of a micrometer type. So lidar, as accurate as 3D printing can be, but certainly more precise and recalibrated more often than without. 8 years of field engineering also for German companies in China…
Only save for an P1S if you absolutely have to save - if you just want to save to save (which we all like to do, but germans sometimes a littel more) spend more money.
Hehe, almost same for me in all points, only I’m working as systems engineer, not mechanical.
Regarding calibration: I think flow and PA are not that easy to calibrate manually and the Lidar does an excellent job at that. It wasn’t useful at all a year ago but it has come q long way since. I think manual calibration is even a bit faster but it requires a lot of eye balling and qualitative evaluation. No measurement tools needed. With a little bit of experimentation you come quite close and it is certainly good enough for most uses.
PA and dimensional calibration I do only once per material and repeat flow for each new roll.
What is really nice with the lidar: For materials that I use online rarely (e.g. different brand of PETG, effects PLA), I don’t bother about creating a profile but just use a similar profile and enable the inline calibration so that I benefit from correct PA value. Without Lidar I’d probably use the PA value from the borrowed profile and be close.
So again my summary: I think X1C provides additional convenience but exactly the same results. Both printers are great and I have hardly heard regrets from owners of one of both.
Black friday is a very good Idea!!!
Okay nice to know i would Buy .2 .4 and .6 (Details Standard CfGf)
PC wasnt in my list because of the uv Résistance otherwise ITS insane!
Ja wenn das so ist wir haben einige Verwandte in der Schweiz kannst du einen guten Arbeitgeber empfehlen?
TPU is Always the Special of Special. But itbfan be very usefull, 1 time i printet IT Directly in PETG as a sealing IT worked
Thats accurate xD
Okay to add on, i learned to be an mechanical engineer, but now in R&D Iam everything… Software, Hardware (Electonic Design) and also mechanical. Its a small company
Does the Lidar also do measurement calibration?
Inline calibration?
So an Auto calibration during the Print??? Without an extra process???
No, it doesn’t unfortunately. I print a test object inspired by the CaliFlower from Vector3D and use OrcaSlicer instead of BambuStudio, because only that allows to compensate shrinking in the filament profile.
Not during but at the beginning of each print. That one takes just one or two extra minutes.
Alternatively you can do a separate calibration once that takes longer ( i think around 20 minutes) and store that value un the material profile.
You ask a simple question 'How happy are you with P1S X1C"
I make probably 90% functional parts in PETG or ABS on my P1S and it has been extremely good to date.
I’ve never used Bambu filament, mostly I’m happy with generic filaments which the printer manages very well.
I didn’t get the AMS, I might but I’m still undecided as for me it would just be a place to hold a few reels.
I think for the ‘exotic’ materials the X1 series would be a better bet.
If the specs match your requirements and you’re happy with the closed eco system then they’ll do what you need them to without any fuss or hassle.
In comparison to a few ‘mainstream’ printers say am Ender 3 series (had two) it is much better and needs little tuning to work well. I admit that I love delta’s and spent months of frustration tuning an FLSUN before it got to a ‘fire and forget’ device. I would still like a V400 just for the build height.
Exactly and that may be the small drop, which is why he may want parts rather than getting one system to the same status as the other - But we can’t answer him whether that’s the case; he has to know it by himself
Which is certainly the case with both machines, he will be in tears when he opens them for the first time. I always will close it very quickly and think to myself - well, until I like it, I can’t pay for it anymore
My final thought when making my purchase was:
if I buy a P1S and find out it was wrong - I’ll be upset about it every day and I’ll never buy another X1C.
If I buy the X1C and find out it was wrong, I shrug my shoulders and just think, it won’t be the last time Spending $500 wrong. If you don’t risk anything…
@DrachirS But remember, in 30 minutes I’ll be at Zurich main station by car from my own house - not because it’s Zurich, even it’s Zurich, a few price points higher than Munich. If someone asks what my job is: Industry super bitch
Chamber heater is almost a must for those “engineering” filaments like PA6 or ABS or ASA… If you can find a printer with chamber heater built-in then it is more than great. Printing ABS is impossible in Australia winter without any mean of chamber temperature controlling, or as you know active chamber heater / good insulated enclosure.
This is my setup for p1s. I find it good enough for ABS without active chamber heater. Chamber temp gets upto 60 degree centigrade after a few hour print. But stil ABS does banana on the bottom surface if I print something long and tall.
Yeah, for me the price difference of X1C and P1S for me is just to reconcile for the better camera to be honest, and $500 is not worth for just better camera.
I find no need for flow calibration and such. I print ABS for bike stuffs, most of them are prototype of mechanical part (to fit test mostly) that goes inside the crankcase of motorbike. I never print benchy or calibration cube and all. Mostly the top surface usually over extrusion or under extrusion a bit, I just shrug it off like nothing bad happens. You know, the filament itself is 1.75 +/-0.05 or 5.7% tolerance. This filament diameter tolerance factor affects the flow ratio already and you have no control over. Like, what if you calibrate on the part of filament that has diameter of 1.70mm at the beginning of the print thinking it was perfectly 1.75mm but at the end of the print the filament diameter is 1.80mm? It is exactly what flow dynamic calibration does at the beginning of the print and I find it useless.
It prints flow calibration lines first, then use lidar to measure thickness of each segment and lock on to one value of flow ratio of the segment that it thinks best, then purging line and then the actual print
It is fool-proof actually. Like, natural colour ABS should be 0.95 but black ABS should be 0.93 for example, but usually user just uses default ABS profile without changing this flow ratio to fit the filament he uses. I think that is the reason users report x1c prints better than p1s.
You can replace nozzle with 3rd party hotend assembly, not with stock bambu hotend. I agree it is better than v5 or v6 e3d hotend design, fix some problem like leaky risk due to nozzle coming loose but it is over price and has bad cooling performance. Bad cooling usually leads to heat creep and extruder clog.
This is my collection of P1S / X1C hotend assemblies and bunch of brass, hardened steel nozzles (not in picture) for those 3rd party hotends
I actually use brass nozzle 0.2mm (3rd one from the left) quite a lot to print description tags and glue to the main part which printed using 0.4 nozzle.
@Hank
Yeah, printing TPU seal is like godsend. Imagine a special seal that no one makes anymore, and silicone pour could take days or weeks to make just one seal and now you can just print one in less than an hour from cad drawing to print finish.
Actually many filaments have tighter tolerance than that, e.g. Bambulab has ±0,02 on PLA and ±0,03 on PETG. And that is absolute deviation. I believe (cant prove it) that most spools are far more consistent within the spool.
5% usually is quite visible on surfaces. I would have noticed such a deviation.
Ok, I’m generally not contradicting anyone here, everything is actually understandable.
However, I somehow have a question mark - what would be the next development step for the P1S? Or should the X1C simply become cheaper - I admit it, it’s amazing how long the X1C stays at that price. I would actually have been expecting it become cheaper a long time ago, or at least the P1S is pimped up a bit so that it remains outstanding attractive. e.G. Spagetti detection was promised to the P1S for a long time, but it hasn’t arrived yet…
So out of curiosity: What would be the next development step for the P1S from the perspective of a P1S user?
May I`m wrong: ABS has somthing like shore 58 – 68D, ASA somthing like 75D, I mostenly print TPU of 58D. I dont know how many ASA parts I reprint with TPU after 6 month since you can trow it on a wall and it still works - the ASA part somehow geting hited or fell down. TPU and threaded parts can sometimes get a little triky.
TPU seal is like godsend - as TPU alone is godsend as well Even as a mold for silicone made of TPU 95A - if it has to be so soft that you can’t get it through the printer anymore
Yes, you are correct. There is Australian brand Aurora making filament with 1.75 +/- 0.03mm. It gets better definitely.
Maybe I still got used to the old days of 3D printing with bad filament. As I print mostly with the cheapest ABS I can get, AU$14 / 1kg roll (or EU$8.5) included shipping! I bought like 10kg a time of the same roll. The print normally came out quite okay. Bambu PLA (came with the printer) isn’t any better for comparision.
@Hank
I don’t think there will be any more improvement for p1s.
Put it this way:
x1c = RAMPS + Raspberry pi (equivalent) + linux
p1s = RAMPS + ESP32
RPi + linux = you can pretty much do anything like you can do with RPi. Only problem is close source that deters hacker community to play with it.
ESP32 is a mircocontroller with native wifi support that cost only $5. To convert it to ethernet, it will cost more than $50. Eventhough ESP32 is quite fast 240MHz dualcore, it is barely enough to run just only a webcam at 720p@5FPS without any encoding. Yeah, the processing power is very limited to do anything more.
This is why they can cut EU$500 from x1c to p1s and still make huge profit.
I am already amazed by how bambu can squeeze everything into that ESP32 and run webcam at 0.2FPS comfortably without instability issue. The only disappointing for me is not be able to add a chamber temperature sensor into the ap board, although it is like 5 lines of arduino code to add such a feature.
Thanks a Lot Guys it seems Like everyone with the X1C loves it and wont Miss the Features. While everyone with the P1S loves it and dont Miss any Features (without the camera)
I think i will listen to black friday and my Bankaccount. For the time of Buying. But it would be the X1C Combo.
AMS is Just Genius also for big prints in the Same Material and i think that the x1C with the stronger Hardware (Software) got more space for Updates in the Future.
Also i think a New series would bring more Updates for the x1C than the p1s because the p1s is allready an Upgraded p1p
I have a similar history with 3D printing as you. Started in 2016 with printers like the Anycubic i3 Mega and have spent days with screwing and bed leveling over the years.
Two months ago I bought a Bambu P1S with AMS. And what can I say, I’m blown away. It took 15-30 minutes to set up and connect the printer. I mainly print PETG. I filled the AMS with 4 rolls of Jayo (Sunlu) PETG and I started printing with the Generic profiles from Bambu. The results were flawless. I have never had such good 3d prints. Not a single misprint so far. Although that’s not entirely true. Yesterday it printed spaghetti. I had forgotten to insert the PEI printing plate. Shame on me, it was my mistake
I run the printer in Lan-Only mode because I don’t want it to phone home. For slicing I use the Orca Slicer. Previously I had the Simplify3D Slicer, but Orca works well, has more features and above all a LAN/WLAN connection to the printer.
In the meantime, I have printed PLA and TPU (SUNLU 95A from an external roll) and I have created profiles for my filaments. This also worked perfectly.
I am completely satisfied with the printer.
As we say im Saarland/Germany: De beschde 3D-Drucker denne ich jemols hodd
Take your time. Both types of prints do not run away.
“more effort of youre earnings” oh yes, i see the news that my opinion doesn’t necessarily have to fit. Compared to regular working hours, you already have 6 - 8 hours more a week
If you switch off the plate monitoring on the X1C, you can also insert the wrong plate without the printer warning you. I only print on PEI textured, but I have already sliced onto an other plate. If the printing plate is then recognized, there is of course also a warning that the file is not designed for the plate.
There may could be something up - check again in 3 to 4 months QIDI PLUS4
If this getting confirmed, then Bambulab can be happy if they can sell there X1C to persons how like getting a lidar. If there are now problem news will show up, then the P1S will become definitely history…
As far as changing filaments is concerned, let’s take a look at it in German, although time is always an extremely relative term in 3D printing world.
I am very happy* with my P1S but my experience was not without some initial bumps but that said, I am going to buy another one but may upgrade to an X1C. In my world, the question “Knowing now, would you buy another one?” is a definite yes.
I did have a bumpy start and my current P1S is a replacement for my original which died about two small prints in.
While that was a less than perfect start, Bambu Lab tech support was right there. They shipped me a bunch of boards to swap out which did not resolve the problem. They then said they felt like my original Bambu P1S was a DOA (Dead On Arrival) and the wanted to get the original printer and they would send me a new one as a replacement. Good luck with any of the other manufacturers doing a replacement. Prusa may but I have zero experience with Prusa tech support.
This replacement P1S has done every print I’ve thrown at it. My experience has been with Creality Ender’s, this P1S has been like a dream come true.
Would I recommend one to a friend? 100% YES
Would I buy one, knowing now what I didn’t know then? Again 100% YES
If you are coming back from not having printed for some time, you are in for a surprise. P1S is an awful lot easier than any of your older printers - less setup, simpler maintenance (nowadays fusing the heatbreak and heatsink to the nozzle is the norm for many other manufacturers also). The models with enclosures built in are great.
TPU (I print mainly medium to hard TPU from A95 to A98) prints just fine for me. My first couple of ABS efforts worked out just great also - far fewer issues than I had with other printers on it. ASA I assume is similar. PETG no issues either.
I came from the background of having 2 Creality printers and a Prusa mk3 that has been my workhorse since 2018 - I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised that you’ll get to spend far more time on printing and designing if that if your thing than carrying out repairs and modifications.
Note there
Strangely enough, for me the price continued continuously over the first 14 days, when it was up again I just came back in 5 min. later until the price was permanently down. Sometimes it’s also get up again, just reload the page and get 200-300 euros less…
uhhhh ich brauche 25 Zeichen für diesen Smiley