On my X1 with one of the AMS units on top of it i use this riser with this LED 3 bar set. Its has the added benefit of heating up the AMS a bit to reduce humidity! LOL
On my P1s i run that Juupine strip, nothing wrong with using the plug that the stock LED plug into. If you are worried, can also use the USB port, they also have a version for that. The stock LED is pretty useless so i rather keep the USB port free for future use.
I had another convo with the supplier that sell strips on AliExpress there technical department didn’t know about the 0.3 amp that Bambu has as a limit on the main board. I sensed a printscreen from Bambu wiki. The answer was place another extra cooling on the mainboard will protect the overheating
I guess you can stick to what bambu recommends or be a bit more adventurous. I have a dual hot end heater mod at 96w with a CHT nozzle and dual AUX cooling fans and a bunch of other mods. None of those things are “recommended” by bambu.
Do you mean your running 96w heater from the built in power supply?!?!
Indeed… dual stock heater for 104w measured actually. They measured at 52w each on the multimeter. I have a spare TH board set it case something blows, but its been running fine for months printing 24/7.
I don’t know who has done this on their X1C - but - the print head is going to crash into that front LED light bar. During a Home operation the print head goes to full front right. If you are printing something full bed depth front to back then you’ll have lots of contact problems. Unless you modified the gcode to limit usable print area
I bought that same light bar but i printed a riser for the top glass, and mounted it to the front of the riser facing downward 45degrees. there is a LED hot terminal on the underside of the power button board. + and -. The X1E has a mini jst plug soldered there. search bambu labs wiki for X1E disassembly guide and look at the power button board. now look at yours and you will see the two solder pins available. solder some leads onto it, use for power to the front LED
Bamboo- I can only say how it fits on my X1C. I bought the second light bar and attempted to install in the location under the metal frame. First, to check clearances, I moved the print head to the center of X axis. then i did a -Y axis move to bring print head to very front of machine. my print head cover goes under the metal frame and stops 2mm from the front outer wall. so if I put a light bar there under the metal frame and print full Y axis depth objects, the print head is going to hit the light bar. Try it on yours, let me know if your results are different?
Fastening the light to my glass riser actually turned out better because it let me mount the light at a 45 degree angle downward.
Has anyone thought about externally powering the LED strips, but then connecting the original LED lamp port to the controller running the new LEDs? I.E. Use the built-in light switch to control the replacement LEDs, that way you still get the control from LCD Screen/Bambu Studio/Bambu Handy App, but you don’t overload the 0.3A constraint of the original LED port?
In theory you could put a Y splitter in there and run the original light bar and also send the on/off signal to the controller.
I did this and yes I have a splitter, the original led connects to the port the other side of the splitter drives the relay for the aftermarket led strips:
This would be for the X1C. That add-on board, will it work with the X1C to trigger lights on and off? Also, where would I find that?
I just bought an LED light kit for the X1C off of AliExpress because it came with LEDs, connectors, and a Y splitter so I figured the worst case is I could cannibalize it for $5.
