Nozzle Temperature Incorrect (Over/Under Temp)

I get the error: Nozzle Over Temp - [0300 0200 0001 0003 1436 13]

When searching, lots of people have similar issues:

I had both under and over temp errors over the last year. The best answer I got from Bambu was to unplug and replug the connectors for the fan. It kinda helped, and for a few months it worked fine.
Then it happened again, no amount of wiggling cables helped.
I replaced the fan, and it worked for a bit.

Then I swapped hot ends, and haven’t gotten through a print since.

When this happens, the nozzle reports as 0 degrees, which shuts off the cooling fan and melts everything in the hot end, leading to cutter malfunctions after rebooting machine. That said, rebooting ALWAYS fixes the incorrectly reported temperatures, making me feel it is a malfunction (though hardware or software is hard to say)

I seem to have the issue more with high temp materials (pet/asa). They will plague me for a while, go away, then come back months later. I suspect the controller board (which I heard they upgraded post-kickstarter). I’ve swapped parts that don’t need swapping.

The printer should check for “temperature out of range” and deal with it appropriately. It shouldn’t turn off the hot end fan within a minute of the temp being 250. I think the response through firmware could be a lot better. If the temp WAS too high, turn off the heater and leave the hot end fan on for at least 10 minutes.

I generally find it has happened during one of those unnecessary purges you get from time to time, where it unloads and reloads filament randomly in the middle of the print (which I believe may have to do with the filament advancer on the back of the machine). Mostly I just want to know how to fix it.

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Ive had this issue too. The temp would gradually drop during printing until it faulted out & read 0 degrees. I think the fault out point was 10 degrees below the set temp.

Im not exactly sure what the root cause was, but I think it was due to poor contact between heating element & hot end, or thermistor & hotend. I could be wrong.

Either way, cleaning the thermistor & heating element off & reapplying thermal grease seems to have resolved the issue. I also checked the hotend wire connections.

I havent seen the printer purge & reload the same filament mid print.

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Can’t say this is your issue, I swap nozzles a lot, make sure everything is plugged in nice and tight. I say that, but usually, when a cable in the hot end is loose, I get the fan speed warning.

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Wow, that sounds like a malfunction. I’d say swap out the thermistor. They are cheap enough to keep a couple on hand. Also make sure the thermistor has thermal paste on it. Maybe there was an error in the hot-end build.

Another issue that pops up on other brand printers is when printing at very high temps, sometimes a printer will super cool the bed or hot end with the part fan (or aux fan) and as soon as the fan is off the heated bed or hot-end, the heating element continues to try and overcome the fans which can lead to an overshoot in temps and fail the print. I tend to leave a little leeway to account for a small overshoot. But if you are at the max temp, there is no leeway and any overshoot can cause a fail.

That’s interesting about the thermal-grease etc - certainly something worth looking about.

I didn’t REALLY trust the ground wire on the extruder breakout board, and when I pulled it, several of the very small components on the rear of the board were poorly soldered. I reflowed most of the suspect joints and haven’t had any issues since… But given the nature of intermittent problems it’s not enough to know if I fixed it.

I sent the logs to tech support, but we’re still dancing around my various order numbers trying to figure out if that’s the issue instead of looking into the logs to see when the temps got weird.

Blockquote Another issue that pops up on other brand printers is when printing at very high temps, sometimes a printer will super cool the bed or hot end with the part fan (or aux fan) and as soon as the fan is off the heated bed or hot-end, the heating element continues to try and overcome the fans which can lead to an overshoot in temps and fail the print.

Yeah, PID tuning could be a bit aggresive there. I sure wish I knew if it went over or under temp, for how fast or for how long. I was asked to video that happening before they send the logs to the engineer… Like watching 20 minutes of video is a better way to see when a variable hit 0 than a spreadsheet. Meh.

I’ll update if I learn anything, but so far “unplug/plug/disassemble/reassemble everything and it may/will help for a bit/while” is what I’ve learned. I get the same sense that printing near the highest temp is likely to fail and seems like it could be solved with more forgiving software limits.

I’ve been trying to figure out what’s up with my printer in general… just lots of problems. I used my fluke today to test the nozzle temp and found that it consistently reads about 15 degC hotter than it actually is… Tested my meter against every thermometer I have in the house and it looks good from what I can tell.

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Steel nozzle… the steel simply doesn’t transfer heat as efficiently as brass. So the thermistor could be experiencing the proper temp, but the nozzle edge may not.

I think the base nozzle is stainless steel and the X1C is hardened stainless steel (doesn’t seem to be very magnetic).

Maybe but my meter’s thermistor is basically in the same spot… Surprised me there was such a big difference. A couple degrees I wouldn’t even bring it up… but 15?

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Hi,

Two weeks ago the nozzle got clogged. After replacing the hotend with a new one, nothing stuck to the hotbed.
The filament seems too cold. I repleaced to other hotends (0.4, 0.6), but the problem still remains. Previously, all prints were perfect.

So it’s not a problem with one hotend, thermistor, or a heater. Looks like a hardware problem.

I sumbitted a ticket to the support, but I get answers like “clean the hotbed”, “add a brim” etc.

The higher the set temperature, the greater the difference between the set and measured temperature (measurement inaccuracy is possible, but not that great)



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For anyone following my journey: They sent me a new USB-C board (rear board), which has a “single red laser” designation on the box. I’m hoping it’s the right part, we’ll see what it helps. I did reflow and replug some stuff on the front board (under the cover) and things have been reliable since then.

@Antonow00

Just from long experience with other machines, I basically never see the tip of the nozzle to be the same temperature as the reported block temp. If you really wanted to see, you’d want to get your probe in there next to theirs. On a slightly more fundamental level, repeatability is all that really matters - if it prints well at 205, then it doesn’t matter if it’s really 210. If what you’re seeing is 10-20 degrees off, it’s enough for a little concern but I’m not sure it’s anything wrong. I wouldn’t trust anything beyond having your probe soaked in thermal grease and right behind the actual sensor. Or put them both in boiling water to compare.

The ‘clean the bed’ answers can be frustrating - it’ll at best cover up a real issue - that said, cleaning the bed often helps a lot, it’s easy to discount. From what you’re saying, you’ve had no successful prints in over a week?

I made the measurement on the heater, the temperature on the nozzle was lower by 10 degrees than on the heater. Set - 210, heater - 192, nozzle - 182

Yes, since the last clog any prints does not stick to the bed. The ticket is still open, so we’ll see what happens next.

I had a partial clog - printing sparkly/filled filament… And for weeks everything almost printed… But I’d have occasional unextruding and adhesion issues.

Not necessarily your issue, but try a couple cold pulls. That fixed me up when nothing else would, and it’s faster than tech support. Alternatively, try a different nozzle?

Did you run the calibration for the printer just incase the nozzle is just a fraction shorter?

I replaced the hotends with new ones, two others 0.4 and one 0.6. I run calibration after each replacement.

I also did a factory reset and did a calibration after that too. I described it all in the ticket. Answer from support - “clean the bed”, “increase the bed temp” :slight_smile: .

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I just had the same issues and errors like you. And it seems to corellate with an error about Fan Speed. In decided to remove the electronics in the hotend where the connectors for fan, heater and sensor are connected and I found the error instantly. It was a poor mounted contact for the fan which resulted in contact problem. I first thought I could solder it simply but due to high temps next to the hotend that is no option. I just ordered the electronics board for 10 bucks and now need to wait.

Hello! Did you manage to solve the problem? I have the same situation.
Incorrect nozzle temperature, no errors

Not entirely sure if this is the correct place to ask this, but I’m having a sort-of similar issue with an X1E that I manage, and it was working completely fine until about this morning when I swapped out the 0.6mm hotend with the 0.4mm hotend. I followed all procedures and such, but the nozzle read 0c, for a bit, then I did a power cycle and checked the connections, then it began to read 258c, while the hotend wasn’t even on. Just to check whether this was an issue with the printhead or the hotend, I refitted the 0.6 nozzle back in, and the issue persisted, reading 258c instead of the actual temp. What could cause this and how could it be resolved?

If you’re getting physically-unlikely readings, it’s almost certainly an electrical issue. If it’s reading room temp, and sometimes a bit higher, it might not be touching the hot end, but in general, extreme values means a wire is broken, a connection is dirty, etc.

Your best bet is working with support - you paid an extra $1000 for support, use it! :slight_smile: Good luck.

I am having a ton of issues with hotend temp too

Can you please give some update? I is over one year later and I am dying to know what was the finale? :slight_smile: