I’m trying to print a simple part in white Bambu ABS using the P2S with the spool thingy on the top.
I’ve set a 20mm brim to try to retain the flat base of the object on the plate.
I’ve tried different plates even.
However, the print is unsuccessful, dislodging from the plate as the base curls after about 70% of the print.
What would you suggest I try next please?
I can’t see how to add a picture here.
Rgds …Pete M
Model Name Wall Mount Bracket for Foldable Drying Rack Rods
I’ve got a similar issue with my P2S and ABS. My part peeled up at the corners on the underside, maybe 1-2mm up from the build plate. Part is 1-1/4” thick. Top side above those same corners looks scorched too. Similar parts ran flawlessly on my P1S, and I went back to printing them there.
I tried to attach a picture but it told me I wasn’t allowed to insert media. Maybe because this is my first post?
The chamber fan might be the cause. In your Gcode you can adjust the fan speed to 0 or something - see my previous posts in the thread disabling p2s aux fan
EricU, yep that’s my issue with any ABS print and not just this one. Strangely I still get perfect prints with ABS using my original A1. I only bought the P2S as it had enclosure and wasn’t a bed slinger…..
You should be heating the chamber before beginning the print. Set the heat bed to maximum, run the auxilliary fan at 30-50% to circulate the air, wait until the chamber temperature is at least 45° C, but warmer is better.
That ease of use might be possible with OrcaSlicer, but you would have to accept the restrictions of LAN-only/Developer mode.
With a bit of extra Machine Start gcode, OrcaSlicer uses my X1C chamber temperature sensor to automatically delay the print until the target chamber temperature is reached. My shop is usually 15°C in winter, too cold for reliable printing. I can set a minimum 25°C temperature for all prints, and I can set a higher heat soak temperature (40-45°C) in the filament presets which need it. I can just send a print without manually preheating and then waiting to send the print. I do not know if anyone has tried this g-code with a P2S.
Studio only allows this use of the chamber temperature sensor for printers that come with a chamber heater (X1E, H2D, etc.)
Getting a little off-topic, but I have seen non-zero gaps work well, which made no sense to me - the brim is clearly attached, there is no actual gap. I’ve concluded that Brim-object gap should probably be called Brim-object offset. It controls how well the nearest line of the brim squishes into the object. (similar to how z-offset controls squish on the plate, but horizontally)
Zero offset spaces the line the same as any other line on the bottom surface of the model.
Increasing offset (“gap”) moves the nozzle a bit further away from the object, causing less squish between object and brim, and a weaker bond. Easier removal but less holding power.
The only time there is an actual gap between object and brim is when the offset exceeds half the line width, though the holding power of the brim is probably ineffective long before that point.
I only decrease Brim-object gap if a brim breaks loose from the object while printing. I sometimes experiment with increased gap to make removal easier, with less scarring. Unless I’m printing multiples, it is not normally worth adjusting.
lkraus, this is way over my head and I’m not brave enough to modify the gcode.
I have just conducted a test print with no brim or support, using a 90-degree vent deflector as suggested elsewhere, with the most failing ABS I own (Bambu Grey). I heated the enclosure for 15 minutes before sending the print.
Voila, a perfect print
Many thanks all, for the advice and guidance all.
Rgds …Pete M
