Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I finally got the filament out. I removed the extruder and it was stuck. Unfortunately, the P2S is still showing the error "The filament cutter sensor is not working correctly." I've ordered a new one now because I'm sure it's seated correctly. I'll keep you posted ;-)
I’m reading now that putting 3, 3m .5mm thickness washers on the tension screw by PTFE tube on the top-side of the extruder (I showed before in this thread) is the sweet spot to fix this error for good. Fingers crossed.
Edit - Yes, 3 washers is the sweet spot. Too much tension, “extruder is overloaded” too little “extruder is behaving abnormally”.
Hi,
I've now replaced the filament sensor and also removed and reinstalled the extruder. Unfortunately, there's no change; I'm still getting the error message: "The filament cutter sensor is not working correctly." I'm really desperate.
I posted earlier this week. After almost throwing my printer out the window! I fond a post talking about a QC issue with the tension spring placement. I dug into my machine and got the spring out. I inspected the hole and rei stalled it. Checking for smoth movment with a tiny flat head screw driver, before replacing the screw. Im several prints in and no more problems. I had gotten to the point that that could not even start a new print at all. But all good to go so far. Fingers crossed. And hope this might help someone.
Do you have a link to this source that you are referring to?
I don’t know if this will help anyone but I’ve owned the P2S since late last year. I started having many of the same problems people have talked about in this thread but my issue seemed to be linked exclusively to the .2 hotend. After doing some research and taking most of the machine apart and putting it back together I think I might have narrowed down the issue. It’s a combination of heat creep and the PTFE tube at the top of the toolhead not being better aligned with the hole at the top of the toolhead.
I mostly print with PLA and I think the enclosed system of the P2S with the AMS 2 causes the filament to soften to the point of rendering the extruder ineffective. Note that your environment could also be contributing to excessive heat within the filament.
With respect to the alignment of the PTFE tube at the top of the toolhead, I had performed a cold pull and initially had issues getting the PLA to feed by hand. On a second attempt I forced the PLA at a more vertical angle and it fed fine.
Here’s the good news…if you just remove the glass on top it should mitigate both these issues. Your letting more heat escape and allowing the PTFE tube to sit a little higher above the toolhead.
I’ve since completed 2 .2 prints lasting over 15 hours each without any issues.
If that was to me, no I do not. I cleared my browser tabs after several successful prints. I am confident enough that I have started a 21 hour print on my P2S.
I have, maybe, solved my problem.
I can say it isn’t heat creep. Has the problem with a new nozzle and with either PLA or PETg, with the lid off and the door open.
You would either have an overload error on 1st load or after a few in the AMS.
Filament gets up to the top of the extruder, you see the extruder gear move up (trying to load the filament) and then it would pull it back and try again, several times.
It works fine if it is a single color on the side spool
I changed
Filament Sensor
Nozzle (.4)
filaments PETg and PLA, even bought Bambu PLA
PTFE tubing
AMS2 AMS
New extruder parts were not available.
Cleaned filament buffer and nozzle and setup the AMS with the more friction less path possible.
Would feed filament through by hand feeling for any friction at junction points and if any, would try to resolve each rough spot. Also tried it with the lid off or on, and with the filament tension screw a few turns out.
Lastly, I changed the buffer, that worked 1st time.
I ran several two color prints with different filaments and they all worked. I then swapped to the old buffer and it it failed on the first filament change.
I went back to the new buffer and then did more prints with generic PETg, all with the door closed and the lid on and didn’t have any problems.
After all this testing to make sure that was the proper fix, I added this to my support ticket and asked for them to replace my bad buffer.
The response on the ticket is
”Thank you very much for your feedback. The technician who previously assisted you has left the company, but we will continue to provide you with support.
*After reviewing the service ticket and reanalyzing the log data, we have confirmed that the issue is due to an abnormal filament buffer signal, which is preventing the filament from being extruded”
And now, a new buffer is on it’s way,
Anyone figure this out yet? I didn’t have any problems for the first 200 hours, then the issue hit. So far my only fix is two keep swapping out nozzles and that solves it for a little bit.
I a F-ing losing my mind with this thing.
This started happening to me about 1 month ago when I was about 1 week into usage and ~10 hours of operation grand total when this first happened to me.
After it happened, I got it working again after:
- nozzle needle cleaner
- cold pull
- filament drying over night
- cold pull
Started working again.
I got about another ~10 hr of operations before it happened again.
So I did another cold pull. Started working again.
I didn’t even get 1 hour of operation before it failed again.
I tried a cold pull. No joy.
I tried swapping nozzles. No joy.
I tried
Things I have tried:
- cold pull
- switching print heads
- cold pull
None of those things seem to work. Also, now it’s been making spaghetti all over now instead of making a print half way and then failing.
Right now I’m running a filament drying run over night.
I’d be OK if I hit this issue once and then got over it, but I’m not even 100 hours into this. Barely over 20 hours. I feel like I got a lemon.
I had the same issue on a different, old filament that was in a sealed drying box for over a year. I tossed that filament out (not much left) and replaced with a brand new sealed one… printed just fine.
So, I tried another filament from the drying box… same issue. I tried the built-in AMS 2 Pro dryer for 12 hours.. errored out after about an hour of printing.
I threw it in a dryer last night for 6 hours at 60C and so far…. it’s printing OK… getting close to 3 hours printing without issues (some minor stringing).
My hope is this issue is because the filaments were just too “wet.”
Well, that failed about 1/2 way through the print. Sitting in the same boat as the rest of you. 
Read my responses in this thread. I did fix it.
I dried out the filament overnight. Then it started printing again.
I got 18 hours more this time before it hit the same extruder overloaded error.
That was this morning. I haven’t had time to debug since this.
The humidity in my AMS is relatively low at 20%. I’m just having a hard time believing that all of this could be over filament being wet.
It feels like I’d have to dry my filament for 1 hour for every 2 hours of operation at this point. Which feels insane.
Yeah but for some reason this printer is really very particular about wet filament. Printed on slightly wet ASA - errors out after 1 to 2 hours. Dried for a few hours and reprinted and all is fine…
I switched filament from this silk rainbow I had.. worked fine ever since… suspect some filament just isn’t as good with this one.
Esun (from the sound of it, they make a LOT of the Bambu-branded filaments) and Polymaker are flawless in this printer so far.
I had the same issue even though my tube was long and used the one that came with AMS2 pro
Our team has published a troubleshooting guide related to the Extruder Overload issue.
It should help find out the root cause of the problem, and solving it.
I had this exact problem the week I got my p2s combo.
The Extrusion motor overload is because of a design flaw where the PTFE tube sits at too sharp of an angle to get the first couple of meters of filament through.
The only fix I found for it was to print any top glass riser. This stops the tube pressing against the glass and the error will go away. I recommend taking the top glass of to print the riser if you encounter the error during printing.
You need to unscrew the filament extruder tension screw and put three, 3M(3 millimetre) washers on the tension screw and tension it back up so it fits firm but not too tight. Unfortunately Bambu let the customers down here by shipping improperly built printers out. If you read through my comments on this thread you will find the fix, it was a learning curve but I fixed this problem permanently (and its got nothing to do with the filament type you are printing with).