Does anyone have any ideas about the surface being bad?
PLA Basic Silver Speed:%50-%100. Temperature 210-220.
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I am very new to 3D printing and cannot say I know exactly what the issue is, but so far with my PLA Basic, I needed to run a little cooler, the blue shade I am running now is at 205 degrees. Second comment would be airflow for a big part like that. If you change the pattern on the top surface where you donât get the long straight runs it will likely print cleaner too. My 2 cents, for what they are worth!
Download the Orca slicer from SoftFever on GitHub: GitHub - SoftFever/OrcaSlicer: G-code generator for 3D printers (Bambu, Prusa, Voron, Creality, etc.)
then run the calibrations and their guide, it was extremely helpful for me.
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Did you try to dry the filament in a oven or with the drying function of the X1C? Filament can draw moisture from the air and it will influence quality of your prints a lot. Drying at 50-55°C for 8 hours might fix the bad surface if moisture is the culprit.
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Thanks for the information. I will try it on low temperature.
This could be the problem. Tomorrow morning I will try the same piece with the new filament. I will update. Thanks for the information.
No problem, but you can never assume filament out of the vacuum bag is actually dry. Mostly it is perfectly usable, but it is never guaranteed.
Please run a Temp Tower and check the quality!
Itâs such a good idea. Thank you.
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Hello,
I tried everything in the last week but no result. Looks like i have a infill problem. If I reduce the speed, the surface is smooth. In the second picture, the results are very different at different speeds, but still not very good.
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You could try gyroid infill. Maybe itâs the same problem like the presliced benchy and grid infill 
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If you suspect an infill problem, increase the amount of top walls.
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the issue you have here is exactly the same as i have printing the Star Ship enterprise from Gambody i have little Pin holes on the top layer like yours, im using Sunlu Silver SIlk⌠I dont think its PLA related but more of an infill issue and speed. I ran the temp tower last night and i found they all kind of looked good, but between me and the wife for Sunlu 215 seemed to work best. karasucan is yours also a Gambody model ? When ive normally printed these of old i used Cura the Gambody specific Profiles and a slow ender 3. Im starting to think for stuff like this we need to really go slow and pref for me even get Cura going âŚSorry forgot to add X1c here not P1P
Yes I am printing Gambody Star destroyer. I tried it at different temperatures and maybe 10 different options. but none of them were perfect. I tried it vertical (picture 1) and the result is perfect. You can see the difference in different styles.(Picture 2)
Is the surface of the model flat and in horizontal layer?
Enable Ironing in the slicer settings to âAll top surfacesâ in the Quality section and it should improve the surface quality a lot. If you have trouble with the infill, you can either change the infill patter, increase the infill percentage or increase the top layer count.
I tried every single infill options. Every single temperature and surface options. i make top surface 1mm but nothing change and i chance printing style. Now perfect.
Ah. Yes, the problem is that the top surface is not in the horizontal plane, so you will always see the layer lines. You would need to push the pieces up so that the top actually is horizontal, or simply print standing.
Did you calibrate your filament? And a comparision between 0.2 (vertical) and 0.4 (horizontal) always is a bit taffer. But finetuning the filament to get an almost (not perfect) final layer can help alot.
What I also recognized with the X1 (and most likely true for the P1P) is that for an acceptable top layer after infill I require 3 top shell layers instead of 2 on for example my MK3. Most likely it is a combination of a bit higher printing temp for the higher speed and the cooling power when doing slower speed printing on the first layer after infill. The second most top layer is able to fill gaps /holes of the first layer and the last (third layer) has a flat surface it can print on.
Hope this was not too confusing 