Hi everyone!
I’m trying to print a lamp on my p2s but it unsticks from the plate and fails. (Every time in a different moment). It is bambu’s cool plate supertack pro and I washed it with water and soap. I also tried putting glue on it, but it also unsticks. I do bed leveling before every print and I have done flow and PA calibration. What else can i do?
Is this PETG or PLA? What bed temperature are you using?
Sorry, i forgot to specify, it’s PLA translucent from bambu, with default bed temp, i think it’s 45
I’m gonna pull this string a bit. Hot water, dish soap, scrub with a nylon brush, then dry with paper towel.
Other types of soap = potential issues due to moisturizers.
Cool water = insufficient cleaning action.
Not scrubbing = not removing deep, well adhered grease and contamination.
Not drying with paper towel or air = anything cloth that goes through laundry carries fabric softeners, essentially a lubricant.
I wouldn’t use glue. My SuperTack Pro if anything is too sticky, and has ripped pieces off the base layer of parts.
If all that is being done, then here are a few other things:
-bump bed temp 5-10 degrees
-make sure filament is very dry
-make sure your cooling fan is off for the first layer.
If none of that is working, try changing your filament to generic PLA in the slicer and force it to print using your transparent PLA.
Hi
I use 3dlac plus spray. It works always for petg, pla on al buildplates.
Hundreds of prints. Never failed.
Wait until the plate is cooled to take your object of. It glues strongly when hot.
I Spray every print a little.
It works also good to get petg off the plate. Some petg is very hard to remove without spraying before printing.
After about 10 times you can easy wash your buildplate with cold or warm water.
I tested a lot of glues but this one is great. Try it.
Before first time wash your plate with water and soap.
Good luck
Wash your buildplate with
You read my mind. I was just going to write 3DLac and you beat me too it. I like the spray can but the pump spray works too. You only need it every 5 or 10 times. It works on everything. Just spray it outside because it stinks. Im on like the second can after many years. But like everyone else says, wash it with soap and water and rinse good.
Have you tried a Brim? Brims are my friend for anything tall enough to flip off my P2S.
Soap? Tide? Palmolive? ??? Use Dawn. It’ll get crude oil off a ducks… uh, feathers.
Use whatever you have, it doesn’t matter. I use a plastic green scrubie sponge but noting harsh. No alcohol, no acetone ever!! If you need those, just buy a new build plate. Just be carful with the filaments that stick TOO well. I use glue stick with those. TPU especially.
Treat your build plate well, and it will last a long time. I think on still on my original textured PEI plate on most of my printers.
Yeah, the one your wife scrubbed the frying pan with…
What is your ambient temperature?
Printing PLA means you need to consider how hot it is inside the enclosed printer.
If the ambient is warm, consider opening the door or lid. If it is cold leave it snug and enclosed. If in between, test both.
Is the base contacting the build plate uniformly? Some models do not touch the surface snuggly. You can check this in the preview, slice it and scroll the right side layer bar down to the bottom. Does the entire circular base appear on the build plate? If not, modify the model if you made it, or lower the model 0.2mm at a time and try again.
As you are printing PKA Translucent, are you using any tweaks to increase the translucency? If so, turn them off and try again.
Remember, our hobby is still tweak, test, check, repeat.
Good point. In many places it is known as Dawn in the U.K., it is Fairy. Often it is the cheapest, unscented, no ‘extras’.
Right now mine is scratching holes in my scalp wondering why what is on the printers screen is nothing like what is being printed. 
Let’s get back to the actual topic…
Could you provide us with the 3MF file? That would be more helpful than us just guessing what the problem might be. In my opinion, this isn’t an adhesion problem; rather, it seems that your nozzle is jamming on the object, suggesting that the settings are incorrect.
As you can see in the video, the nozzle clearly pushes the object to the side when time-lapse mode is selected. Here is the exact point, with both frames overlaid. I don’t see an adhesion problem- Especially considering that you’re using the Cool Plate Supertack Pro and say you cleaned it really well. Rather, it seems your nozzle is crashing into the object.
A brim might help, and as has already been mentioned here, you should take advantage of this - but it won’t solve the core problem. The contact surface is actually large enough, though more is always better, of course.
I can think of some possibilities, but to be sure, we’d have to analyse the 3MF files more closely:
My ambient temperature is 24°C. Is it enough with the p2s exhaust fan?
Yes, it is uniformly in contact with the plate. I started with tweaks for transparency, but after the first fail, I disabled them.
here is the 3mf file:
3mf file.3mf (2.8 MB)
You are absolutely correct to mention this build plate washing procedure in detail, and every time I see it mentioned I get sad that there is still no build plate washer-dryer machine that can fit beside a printer in a regular home.
Now I’m going to try using a brim, increasing the bed temp, cleaning well the plate like @CarbonForge said and disabling fan on the first layer
I use gyroid infill, but here is the 3mf
3mf file.3mf (2.8 MB)
So, in addition to the advice that’s already been given, I’ll just post a few things I’ve noticed:
In summary: It’s not one big problem, but rather a number of small issues with the profile that add up. More specifically, you haven’t adjusted it for either the 3D object or the filament. Once you have done so, the print should go off without a hitch. 
To put it even more succinctly: Your settings make it seem like you’re trying to win a speed-printing contest rather than focusing on quality.
Perfection is an elusive beast, and generally unobtainable.
But do keep trying. 
What nozzel are you using? I found a smaller works better, often using my 0.2mm to get finer results. The drawback is it takes longer. Much longer.
