You need to enable the advanced option toggle and in the settings panel possibly as well if the toggle won’t go green.
But more on topic.
Silk Failed.
Just failed or my kid only caught it now lucky. It was air printing 34 layers up. Something happened.
I’m checking this now.
From what I can tell there shouldn’t be a problem with the model I already got one success. It might however be the silk itself and the bulk small print.
Typing from cell 1 min I will edit to explain. Fixing printer.
Sorry dbl post cell button edit won’t work.
Here is a good game for people hehehe.
Find what went wrong to make this poor mini jam and air print for 34 layers by just looking at this picture. 
And yes. I’m fixing the poor boy now.
I’ll post back on computer later and see if you figured out the problem, for both the image above and the spinner silk issue you are having to begin with printing them. 
I quit. I moved on from fidget spinners and was trying to print a clock as a retirement gift for a coworker.
I also tried to run 2 separate prints with 3 separate fidgets each in 3 different colors printed by object… out of 6 possible fidgets, I got 2 of decent quality. One print failed because it wouldn’t feed filament after the first spinner and the second print ended in spaghetti, also on the 2nd one…
Have you checked these 4 screws by any chance?
When I as having issue with the nozzle dragging on my A1, this was the culprit. I kept having prints get snagged and knocked over as well so it’s worth a look. Seems pretty common that these things come out. My A1 Mini never had the issue, but my A1 needed these to be tightened around 300hrs.
Yes, I made sure I checked the screws were right when I installed the new heating element a few days ago
You “broke the wires to the hot end,” repaired it, now you’re having problems.
Take a step back:
Take a picture of the exposed hot end. Many angles. Take it out, and take another round of pictures. I bet that thing is jacked up.
Well there is a lot of crossing info in this thread now.
So I’ll break out the parts that I can solve here:
Silk - this spinner - trash. As you can see form my above photo’s in a large batch there will be issues due to the size and the “overhangs” by the time it works on another wheel the silk expands and fuses making the spinners a solid brick.
Silk will probably work if you enlarge them slightly AND tune it a bit to have more cooling but this is getting irritating for me to go further - they are nice spinners but meh I don’t need any haha. I suggest dropping the silk if you make them and just use stuff that will hold the edge and detail while printing like the petg or pla+
This, by the way, is model dependent, as well as multiple dependent, plus environment.
Taking the time to print one model only the nozzle has the speed to swing around keeping everything on the model (the circle part) hot and layered without it moving away to another spinner and doing that one, then the next etc… this on certain models when you do multiple or large batches makes the edge curl up or cool off weirdly on the first ones causing warping or expanding. Using Silk which is nuts to print with properly anyways, just compounds the problem.
I bet a 9x full plate pla+ or petg would print correctly, and regular pla full pate would fail like this silk or come out a terrible print due to some edge warping as well.
Anyways - silk on this is a bit of a lost cause, NEXT.
Your clock picture tells me a lot. you are using AMS i never caught that in my tired state. If you run the print single color NO ams (just unplug it) does it fail? If not this might be it but for the wrong reason.
If the color swap is causing the print to fail then there has to be something in the prime tower travel maybe, the color swap maybe the process there you know? Removing the AMS and driving it straight with the single boden tube will see if it skips a beat and fails as well.
Also I see it in that clock picture circling inside? did it fail drawing the inner line or the number faces? This is it failing but not kicking it off the plate…an important detail (for temps)
Silly question…are you…trying to print or ams layer petg+ pla ?? cuz…they will never stick fyi. they repel each other like water and oil…
So print fidgets in silk (if I do) one or two at a time.
Best part about the clock, I restarted the print again, changing nothing and it printed perfectly fine.
I don’t like this whole intermittent issue thing. Like why can’t things fail constantly or not fail at all.
Ran another print of different clock parts it failed because of terrible bed adhesion…restarted the print. Finished beautifully no issues.
I was having issues before the hot end replacement, which obviously caused the situation in which the hot ended needed to be replaced.
Also, I have already gone over every screw, belt, idler, clasp, and partridge in a pear tree.
Hey back: As ypu and others have advised too, on replacing the hotend sensor my problems arose.
My prints have become inconsistent, sometime working and sometimes losing calibration, odd struggling noises and dysfunctional prints.
What has occurred is the back sliding bar on the x axis arm has become black with carbon residue but the tensioner ( back screw) for x axis makes no diffference to this. Then I noticed that the toolhead in general has a small tilt on it leaving it tilting backwards onto that back slider in effect the tool head is on a tilt rubbing (friction). The toolhead is causing drag messing with smooth action / calibration of the printing. Its struggling to be consistent as it moves back and forth.
The tensioner ( back screw) as the side (3) screws do not impact this axis of the toolhead
I unscrewed the replacent hotend sensor i put in and ‘eureka’ the back slider on the arm lifted off the the arm. Tighten ( even gently) and the toolhead tilts again onto the back slider and causes undue friction.
Photos below - a little hard to make the issue obvious- but it IS an issue with printer and printing. Anyone else? Also photos on the prints IF they complete.
What to do? Any tension on the sensor screws jams up the x axis arm? The choice of which screws tightened first no difference. Manually holding the toohead made no difference??
I cannot see a size dif in the replacement sensor?
R
soooo somewhat seriously somewhat jokingly…how important is it to have a nozzle that ISNT bent/twisted?
Looks like a third party nozzle. Get a real Bambu lab one unless that’s an old nozzle and I haven’t seen the old design. Because it is bent,I’d recommend you get a new nozzle.
I assure you it’s a bambu nozzle. It’s the same design as all my other Bambu nozzles, it’s the hardened nozzle not the stainless nozzle.
I have in fact changed nozzles to an identical (but obviously new) nozzle and have far fewer issues…
Other than sometimes this happening.
Why are only some of the parts messing up?
I’ve run the print probably two dozen times. Changing nothing. I’ve had it come out perfect, or a few messed up, but it’s not always the same one/ones that are messed up
Sorry didn’t read all the posts so apologies if someone mentioned it.
When printing PETG raise your Z by .03. PETG is super sticky, thus super viscous, thus stronger in relation to transmitting movements from the nozzle to the print. Giving the “bends of filament” during application a longer section results in less transmittance of these movements. Raising Z also prevents general blobs from wisp accumulation.
Also a gigantic brim helps with taller objects to further distribute any lateral movements.
i also did not read all of the posts, so i do not know if this was said.
the solution to stop the dragging during travel.
in printer config, make sure z hop is enabled. i set my hop height to .6
in global settings for the layer height section, infill etc.
go to others > g code output > uncheck reduce retractions during infill. as long as the screws behind the nozzle are tight, this will 100% stop the dragging.
i fought the dragging for 2 months and finally found a thread that had the solution.
there is a bug in orca and bambu studio that skips z hops during travel. it was reported in jan 2024.
What how dare you not go through and read every post! I’m offended!!
But no, seriously thanks for the help. I will definitely change things around.
Do you have the link to the bug reported in jan by chance?
I do see it’s set to ‘auto’ vs normal, spiral, slope. Interesting…tyvm
here is a link to the original thread that i found with solutions toward the bottom. the op is the person that discovered the issues and reported them.
i set my z hop to spiral to eliminate stringing, but i dont see much with any type of z hop. i also tested the settings with the taboo grid infill and had no issues with dragging either.
