Just tried to set up and calibrate my H2d. When the bed tries to move up it makes a lot of noise and calibration fails. When I look at where the rear screw comes up to the top I see just a hole with the screw flopping around. It seems like there should be a bearing there. I have put in a ticket but wanted to see if I’m on the right track. Thanks
Look under the plate you’ll see where the rod is supposed to go.
No Bearing
Thanks so much! Got things torn apart and put back together properly. I would have thought that would be caught in qc but apparently not.
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You’re welcome! Be sure to hang on to your shipping box, just in case you need it later.
How did you get it back in place? I have the same issue and would like to try and correct it instead of sending it back.
He likely released the torsion spring of the Z tensioner from the belt and either lowered the Z rod by loosening the three Z rod screws or moved the tensioner housing downward to position the rod correctly.
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Use the link that 3DTech posted. Release the tensioner and then remove the screws holding the plate to the bottom of the printer. DO NOT remove the four screws holding the motor to the plate. I think this will let you drop down the screw down far enough so you can get it in the circle at the top. I took out the screws holding the motor and then had to take the back off to get the motor reattached to the plate. There is another tutorial on how to take off the back and replace the motor.
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Thank you both for the link and additional information. I am going to give it a try this evening.
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Well, I do appreciate the help, but releasing the tensioner and removing the screws that hold the plate to the bottom of the printer did not provide and slack at all. Do you think removing the back cover and taking the screws out of the Z motor would help?
You may need to partially or fully loosen the Z motor screws to allow it to drop down, especially if the Z gear sprocket and shaft fit into a small hole in the bottom base. Please inform everyone if this is the case.
OK, that was the ticket! I removed two of the screws (opposite corners), then loosened the other two. That gave me just the amount of slack I needed to get it back in its “race”. The printer is just now finishing the calibration process. I cannot thank you both enough for this information. The thought of boxing it up, then waiting for a return label, Bambu to inspect, then ship another unit was not appealing at all. Thanks again!!
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I was able to fix this as well on my new H2D. I removed the tensioner, and all but the leftmost two screws on that plate. I turned those leftmost screws 2.5 turns, and that was just enough to get the Z axis screw back in.
Thanks for the help everyone!
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Yea! Hopefully this will help someone else. I was hoping that you could get the z screw in it’s place without taking off the back. It wasn’t hard just tedious.
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Did you only remove the tensioner and two rightmost screws in the photo and loosen the two leftmost screws in step 4 the replace-z-axis-tensioner wiki page?
Edit: I was able to finally upload the image, so hopefully that helps.
In the same “plate” at the bottom of the printer, you first remove the tensioner, then the belt. There are ten total screws in that plate, I removed eight, and the leftmost two screws (which are connected to the motor) I only unscrewed about 2.5 turns.
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I am confused, are y’all saying we should have bearings in these spots?
I don’t have any bearings on there…
No bearings on the front Z rods or the rear Z rod they are freely floating in cups.
Is that rear z rod your printer if so its out of cup
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Oh I see so they are supposed to freely floating in the cups?
My Z rod is not like in the image above, it is correctly seated in its cup.
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Yes free floating on the rod tops and inside the ring cups
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