In this thread you can request things for people with H2Ds to look at/test! If you have something that might warrant a longer discussion, create a separate thread and put a link to it here. People with H2Ds (lucky), test and reply to whatever interests you :)
Can someone try a print with max speed (1k mm/s) and max acceleration?
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Not like I would ever have a use for any of them but who is going to try printing some of the higher temp filaments like PEKK or PEI I would love to see whole video just on what the printer is capable of running it at it’s max So far is seems like people are barely using it for what it’s capable of.
Would love to see PLA basic benchy with HF nozzles on ludicrous mode.
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I can knock that out tomorrow. Just got the printer all setup and calibrated with the new HF nozzle.
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I don’t mind Ludicrous speed prints, but I don’t feel like clear out jams trying to print at max travel speed.
Not sure you can do the pre-sliced benchy to compare to other pre-sliced Bambu benchies. When I try to run it with the HF nozzle, there a restriction saying the nozzle doesn’t match the profile. So effectively, the software won’t let you run a file sliced in a different configuration.
We can do a regular benchy, but that will not be close to the pre-slice ones. They have a lot of short cuts added in so ours will not be relevant for comparison.
Yes one sliced for HF hot end (not a pre sliced one) + ludicrous mode to see how much overhead the HF hot ends have. It will give us an idea of how much we can push the profiles (speed wise) over the stock settings.
Did someone say SPEED BENCHY?? What better person to do this test than the current Neptune 3 Pro speed benchy world record holder!
Here’s what we’re working with people:
Printer: Bambu Lab H2D (Non-Laser)
Profile: 0.20 mm standard
Nozzle: 04 High Flow
Mode: Ludicrous
Filament: Sunlu Pla+ 2.0
Total print time without pre-print ritual: 27 Minutes
I was unable to top my 11 minute record on the (heavily modified) Neptune 3 Pro… but let’s just say the results with the H2D are MUCH better, like night and day better 
.
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Try #2, I relaxed some of the setting but stayed in the speed benchy rules… and shaved 7 minutes off!
Print time not counting pre-print ritual: 20 minutes
Still near perfect quality.
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Awesome thanks so much! Looks pretty good actually, my guess is we can push the speeds higher than stock HF profiles. Any problems during the infill printing as that was going the fastest? Its 600mm/s at 166% so 996mm/s, although it probably never got close to those speeds due to the small size of the item.
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No problem! I definitely think there’s a lot of room for tuning and I think we’ll have fun doing it. No problems with the infill, or on any of it really.
I tried again after removing the “slow down for bridges” option and also the “slow down for better cooling” under the filament profile. It was still good except it has a dent in the bow.
One thing I’m not sure of, do the pre-sets (like ludicrous) override the speed settings or multiply them?
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They override and multiply the speed settings and bump the acceleration to 20k on X1. Not sure on the H2D what acceleration is bumped to.
Everything You Need to Know About the Bambu Lab H2D
goes into the laser/cutter and decals/stickers
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Currently, the AMS 2 Pro disables filament drying while printing. This feature request proposes a “Smart Drying Mode” that allows limited drying functionality during active prints, with intelligent power management and temperature control to ensure safe and consistent filament conditioning.
Problem
Many common filaments like Nylon, PC, PETG, and TPU are highly hygroscopic. During the drying process:
- The outer layer dries quickly.
- The core takes much longer to release moisture due to slower diffusion.
- A single pre-print drying session often doesn’t dry the entire spool, especially in long prints.
During a long print, the printer gradually consumes deeper layers of filament. If drying is disabled while printing:
- The filament core may still contain moisture, causing bubbling, stringing, or adhesion issues mid-print.
- Users are forced to over-dry before printing, increasing power use and wait time.
Proposed Solution
Introduce a Smart Drying Mode in AMS 2 Pro that allows:
- Low-power, low-temperature drying (e.g., 35–40°C) during active printing.
- Power load balancing by alternating or limiting heating when the heated bed or nozzle is active.
- Resumption of full-temperature drying after the print finishes.
- Optionally, allow slot-specific drying (e.g., only warm idle slots).
This enables continued core drying during the print, reducing mid-job defects.
Additional Benefit: Reduced Pre-Drying Time
With this mode, users would only need to dry the outer layers before starting a print.
As the print progresses, the deeper layers continue to dry while being slowly pulled into the printer.
This effectively:
- Reduces pre-print drying times
- Increases throughput
- Improves print quality over long jobs
Benefits Summary
- Improved consistency for moisture-sensitive or long-duration prints
- Reduced pre-print drying requirements
- Better filament conditioning with no external dryers
- All achievable through firmware enhancements — no hardware changes needed
Would love to hear thoughts from the community and the Bambu team! This feature would help unlock the full potential of the AMS 2 for serious material workflows.
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I’m more annoyed you can’t even dry PLA at PLA temps while the machine is idle. It literally makes you remove the PLA from the feeders to do ANY drying (although you can leave it in the AMS, unfed). Little bit of a hassle, but not quite useless, but an argument can be made for that. To its defense, it removes the cost of having multiple units (dryer and AMS), but it does require effectively the same number of steps (add and remove or prep the PLA to dry). Very small convenience add. Not to mention, I can dry and print from a conventional dryer. However, if you print ABS/ASA/PETG/Nylon/PC/etc., you are good to go. Super convenient. Open the roll stuff it in and start drying and don’t worry about it (of course, if you don’t need to print immediately).
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it’s actually a pretty good idea from them, along with rotating the spools slightly as it dries
the anycubic ACE allows PLA to dry while printing, and i’ve come to learn that it really messes up with the filament, especially then for unloading, loading operations, i’d say bambu probably saw that happen as well and that’s why it updated the firmware to put this restriction
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Yeah, there’s good reason for limiting the drying and printing, but as a dryer alone (no printing), its not a big improvement in convenience. Too many limits. You literally still have to load it and unload it when drying PLA. You only save the motion of taking it from one machine to the other (one arm movement saved). You still need to open the unit, unload it, tie off the PLA and start the drying. Then when drying is complete, open the unit, cut off the tied off deformed filament, reload the filament, and close it. Again the only saved convenience is the act of moving it from one machine to the other.
Aside from that, it is a really good dryer though. I find it comes very close the the advertised temps, unlike the PolyDryer’s anemic 50C-55C high temp. And considering its working like that for 4 rolls at the same time, I’m not sure there isn’t anything else out there that is as effective.
I moved our benchy talk over here to hopefully get people involved:
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yeah but that’s the thing, if the filament is drying with the curve that it gets when its loaded, then it messes with it’s shape, granted that on the ACE the problem is bigger, because when the filament is loaded it covers much more ground in the PTFE tube, but it can still impact on the AMS I’d say
I’m not disputing that. Just saying the convenience isn’t that great. There is a value to it, and if I were faced with the option to buy this or a separate dryer, I’d likely still buy the new AMS (less than $50 more than a base AMS). But people should know its not all rosy.
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