Spec of light output

Hello

I would like to use LEDs in the cabinet with a little bit higher brightness. As far as I have read already there are 5V present when swiched ON. Could anyone tell me please how much current I can get from the output without damaging this output .

regards, Ulf


That enough?

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Nice, a floodlight like in the socker arena :slight_smile: .
Do you use the lightoutput directly without a relay ore something like that, and how much is the current you draw from the output ?

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Just use one of those cheap light strips with remote, goes off when I turn the printer off too

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BNF1YWD8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Thank’s for your effort, but that is not what I asked for. I would like to know what current the switched light-output could deliver. It would be great If a technician of bambu lab could give me an official information about that.

regards, Ulf

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I think it says if you look at the plug

You coose to plug it into a outlet, not controllable by the machine, he is asking for the speks for the port of this: LED Light - X1 Series | Bambu Lab EU

I am addressing my external light thru a relay, as a didn’t want to risk killing something and hooked it directly up to the printers 24v psu.

I seem to recall that someone posted the spec from Bambu in another thread here. You might want contact support with your question, or go back through the old posts, including the X1C section.

I don’t trust my memory enough to quote the figure without verification.

That’s the right answer. You have to assume BBL didn’t spend money on PS wattage they didn’t need, so powering a bunch of additional 5050 sized LEDs off the existing PS isn’t the best strategy. Even if the answer appears to have sufficient margin for the added load, you’ll be running the PS harder/hotter and that has implications for long term reliability. But if you switch a relay off the lighting circuit, particularly if you use a solid state relay (or just a decent sized FET would do it), you don’t have to worry about the machine’s operating margin. There added load will be negligeable, and the relay/FET can switch an external supply with as much juice as you need.

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Thank’s for all the answers. I think I will make it with an isolated switch like a relay or optocoupler and FET. If I go into a unknown system with an external powersupply I think it’s better to do this isolated from the current system.

regards, Ulf

Regarding the spec of the LED-Output I found this hint in the troubleshooting section of the P1P in the bambu wiki https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/troubleshooting/p1p-led-failture. The 5V output will be damaged by a current >= 300mA .

regards, Ulf

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I know it’s already 11 days old, but since I’ve been looking for the same info, I thought I’d share. If you’re talking about the 5V output at the top front of the printer, there’s a sticker on it (I have a pretty recent P1S, but also found images of a P1P) that’s stating 1.5A.

Is it correct that this USB output is not present at a X1C?

You don’t understand the question at all so why bother answering?

Not necessarily. If you can find brighter LEDs that are more efficient and draw less current, you can totally do that. All you need is to hook up the LED connector to a multimeter in current mode to see how many amps it draws. My educated guess it’s somewhere around 300mA. If you find brighter LEDs that draw the same current, even with a DC-DC booster then you can absolutely achieve better results without overloading the 5V supply for the LEDs. Frankly, if it’s less than 1A then whatever circuit supplying the 5V already can do more. Most 5V supply circuits deliver 1.5A anyways (that’s just what FETs and regulators are normally rated to handle and I’ve never seen anything maxes at anything lower than 1A when it’s a power delivery component, it’s just always more) and no way Bambu designed the LEDs power draw right on the edge.

I’m an Electrical Engineer and there are some assumptions and incorrect statements here, I don’t even know where to start.

I’ll just pick one.

“Most 5V supply circuits deliver 1.5A anyways”

I have a box full of 5V linear and switching regulators with current ranges from a few 100mA to 10A. There is no general rule for power supplies. Voltage and Amps are not correlated and power supplies can be and are designed with arbitrarily different values for both.

Similarly, I have FETs with ratings in the low 10s of mA all the way up to 100A.

I agree, there is no way BBL designed their power supplies to be on the edge, that would be a bad design choice and these guys have enough experience to know better. “Best Practice” mandates power circuits be designed with at least 20% operating margin. I would bet that’s what they did. The power supplies deliver the load the designer thought they needed plus the margin and that’s it. More margin requires more expensive components and above 20% it doesn’t really provide any benefit. Needlessly adds cost.

When you add an external load, you’re consuming margin. You don’t know how much margin the load consumes because you don’t know what the power supply is actually spec’d at and you don’t know what the designed loads are already drawing, so you don’t know how how much margin your added load is consuming.

But the closer you push electronic components to their spec’d limits, the hotter they run and the more likely they are to fail. This probability of failure vs. temperature increases exponentially. Higher operating temperatures are really bad for reliability. You want to avoid them. Which means you want to avoid putting loads on your power supplies the power supplies were not designed to handle.

So I must disagree. You don’t want to use any appreciable amount of the margin BBL designed in to their power circuits. However much there may or may not be. You’re reducing the reliability of your printer when you do. If you don’t know how BBL designed it, you’re rolling the dice. Maybe you get lucky, maybe not. There are a lot of variables. The better choice IMO is a dedicated supply for any additional lighting you install. A FET is all it’d take, or if you’re not comfortable with that, a 5V Form-C relay would do it at the cost of maybe just 10mA added load to the lighting circuit.

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