Speculation about new printer announcements

One big warning ill give is that the support situation will probably suck if you ever need to use it. The day I ordered this, I noticed it was a 3 week wait for the combo. I tried to cancel so i could reorder without the cfs. They never responded to my email. They would be smart to really push for good support if they want the sales crown back.

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Yeah, fair enough and I’m fully aware of their customer support issues. Actually, it will be an identical thing like dealing with Bambu’s customer support… Most likely, no difference at all (after all, both operate from PRC, and have the same mentality and approach on their customers).

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Ill keep adding to my post as I think of stuff. Added some info about the cfs and noise levels. All of this has been tested on youtube already. Im just varifying that they were all being honest. Not gonna be a popular opinikn around here, but I think Bambu has to play catch up now. All feelers aside, they are now in 3rd place (based on personal experience with physical printers). Possibly 4th if the core one pans out. I have the prusa xl in 5th place so dont think im an old fanboy. And I dont grade any DYI style printers highly because thats unfair. Doesnt matter that its good, if it takes a week to build, requires a pc and a nerd degree

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Who is 2nd? Anycubic?
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k2 plus(based on tiny experience), qidi plus 4, bambu(x1c and p1s), prusa xl, Voron 2.4, A1, A1 mini, flsun s1 would be my current gen order. Based on everything. The list changes based on specific things like speed, quality, ease of use, fun etc. I havnt tried a current anycubic printer. Havnt ever tried a flashforge. They just havnt offered anything special that caught my eye. I like new shiny bells n whistles lol. Im a sucker for things like auto adjusting belt tension.

-The plus 4 wins on quality and high temp materials. But isnt as fast as others. They really target quality, so things like bed heat up time being slow so that there is less bed warp from the thicker bed is a thing. Otherwise, the printer is perfect and never messes up. I barely even clean the plate and have done zero maintenance. Not sure why, but the rails and screws dont build up carbon. Makes me wonder if all the build up in the bambus is actually the carbon rail dust.

-k2 plus on speed and all around usability(size, heat and color in 1. But support sucks. Try and buy from a 3rd party like amazon.

-Bambu on ease of use with all the profiles it has. Anybody can get a decent print from one. But seems to be imploding with poor decisions. And are extremely slow to innovate on the actual hardware side. Makes moves like apple but has a business model like Nissan.

-prusa xl dominates on multimaterial. Have to learn prusa slicer(orca only has single and 5 head profiles) which isnt as easy as other slicers. And TPU needing workarounds like not using the 1st runout detector (there are 2) and bypassing the ptfe tube is needed with sticky/soft TPU.

-Voron for fun. By far. Has a huge learning curve to overcome if you want to enjoy its modding capabilities.

-Dont buy an flsun. Speed is all they have.

-A1 only if youre on a budget and even then, I would say just save more money for a p1s. Just dont see the point.

Cant grade the ratrig yet, but I imagine it will just be a premium Voron experience and probably take the xl’s multimaterial spot

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Yeah, with the CMS it costs the same (in the EU) as I’ve paid for the X1C Combo, but it does come with a number of advantages that currently overshadows Bambu’s X1C.

They really spent time on every little detail. Everything. Even stupid little stuff like the side spool holder having a ptfe tube mount with a funnel inlet. Or the cfs seeming to lean the rolls forward for easy insertion and removal. The poop scraper being metal. all the glass sitting perfectly flushed and completely sealed. Really dulls all the internal noises. It smells like new nikes. lol. This unboxing beats the ■■■■ out of even the xl unboxing. Looks like Crealitiy said “hold my beer”.

Sad part is it will take a while to get good sales. With everybody having jumped ship in the last 3 years. I personally cant wait until more than 1 brand is “good in the minds of everybody”, so the whole industry can explode. As of now, its a bunch of nokias trying to live in an apple/samsung world. The nokia could be twice as good but nobody is gonna buy it. And everybody has the anti establishment/ youtubers are shills mindset. I dont blame them, but its kinda hard to come back from. Not everythingbis fake or a lie.

Running the poly pearl test now. Couldnt sleep lol.

Another thing I dont like is how rough the build plate is. Its like super rough sand paper. It would have been perfect if the other side had a satin finish. They probably tried to get around the bed adhesion issues of going this fast but its a bit much. To the point that I bet it messes with z height acuracy of parts.

@MalcTheOracle I try my best to use actual paragraphs just for you. Probably still messing it up lol

Edit: Has a good amount of premade macros.

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it does look super coarse… and recently i’ve been going much more of for the supertack or smooth pei, and giving a quick look on their website i’m not seeing any alternatives

also to highlight is that bambu is much better when it comes to spare parts, they have very few, so they need to step up their game on that front

Agree on the spares. For the bed plate, We can probably use any plate meant for a voron 350 or even the 360mm xl plate. Thankfully they went with the most common size.

I do fear that one day Bambu may stop shipping directly to me though, and they seem to not want to use amazon. Theres one place near me that sells 3d printer stuff. 45 minutes away. If they moved, id have nobody. And im positive they would have a markup on everything to turn a profit.

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You know that you could sandbelt the excess rugosity from the plate and bring it to more reasonable size, don’t you? After all, you paid for it, and thus you are its owner (unlike with the Bambu printer) :smile:

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isn’t Bambu slicer a fork of Orca ? I think I read somewhere that Bambu was developed from Orca.

Inverse is true - orca is fork of bambu slicer.

Bambu slicer itself is a fork of prusa slicer

prusa slicer itself is a fork of slic3r

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The other side of the plate is actually satin. lol. I never checked.

See… all’s well when it ends well… however, that doesn’t seem to apply with Bambu, though.

So, the new creality slicer is pretty good. I may be missing something, but it seems even better than normal orca. Here are some cool settings ive noticed so far.

I suggest anybody thats interested, download it and poke around.

This first setting will come in handy for variable layer heights. The nozzle will heat up and cool down based on layer thickness. So we wont have to run slow during those layers and cause other cooling artifacts.





Hits 28 mm/s3 with Bambu matte PLA. There is VFA but not much.

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That didn’t aged well in 2025

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Side note: They have a makerworld knockoff where you buy credits to then purchase higher end models with. Lame, but I atleast hope the designers are getting some of that cash. Not sure what incentives you get or if theres a membership program. I wont be buying credits. There are free models too. Looks like you earn points by uploading models also.

Here we go. The middle weight vs heavy weight battle of the year. I ran this test once with creality pla vs bambu pla and the creality pla did not do well. It was straight out of the package. I redid it and made it as equal as possible. Used Orca slicer with identical profiles, temps and fan speeds. Top off and door open for the 335 hour, unmodded X1C and door open for the k2 plus. Used Bambu PLA matte for both and pretuned the filament on both printers. I even used the same exact roll for both prints.

Things I notice are that the creality has better overhangs but also some excessive smoothing in very fine areas, and the hot end temp sensor probably isnt accurate. Based on the matte filament being darker and more glossy than on the bambu or other printers Ive used it on. The Bambu had higher overall quality but also has slight stringing in the lower area.

The top 2 are the X1c. Bottom 2 are the K2 Plus (For any new users, this is what 3d prints look like when you zoom in real close. From a normal distance, these look near identical. All prints look like doo doo from 3 inches.)

.2mm layer height and both took 47 minutes.




Ill have more soon. This took forever. I had issues sendinging files from orcaslicer and ended up using a usb stick. I could have used creality print but wanted to keep everything fair. I still havnt went down the rabbit hole of fixing orca yet.

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I have some models there as well, their incentives are pretty low (ridiculously so even), so i ended up putting a low value (1 USD or lower) on the designs, to make it worthwhile, but i have very little traction there, it’s not even remotely comparable to makerworld or others

i have to say that the x1c takes it, and by a margin, the quality of detail is not great, hopefully some fine tuning can improve it, otherwise the lack of crispness doesn’t cut it

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I agree. The one thing I’ll say to keep in mind is that this is a much larger gantry. Only real option is to wait for a lightweight gantry to come out. Until then, it still works great for my needs. I rarely need a part right away. I usually set my speed based on how long im willing to wait. For the highest quality, the smaller printers will continue to be king. A better comparison will probably be the core one.

Gonna run a full plate of some sort of milticolor multipart toys and then jump into the heated chamber tests with non CF PC, ABS and ASA

Another easter egg I just found. Theres no lip at the bottom edge of the chamber, so stuff can be easily swept out.

And I see why the the outer shell is so beefy. Because it is the frame. The inner rails attach to it. This is how they were able to make the footprint somewhat compact too.
Finger for rail size comparison.

Edit number 700: Just realized that the creality part is drastically stronger. The Bambu part was brittle. Maybe the temp sensor on the Bambu is faulty and printed at low temp.

Bambu break points.

K2 break points

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Getting more and more interested in this one. it was under my radar already but not yet decided. Reading what you will be posting, i may consider it since 350x350 would be great for my needs