Successful Prints

Printer used — [Bambu Lab X1-Carbon
Filament used ---- esun pla gloss
Model link---- Mickey Mouse Christmas (crealitycloud.com)
Print settings ---- stock
Print time ---- 20h 46m

3 Likes


X1-Carbon, coextruded “Silk Magic PLA” filament (unbranded)

Model: The Torture Brolly! by Clockspring3D | Download free STL model | Printables.com

5 Likes


X1 Carbon with 0.2mm nozzle.
Generic white polycarbonate
No cooling fan, 1mm³/s, 0.08mm layers
Print time approx 2 minutes (not including bed levelling and pre-heating).

This is the smallest functional part I’ve printed so far and I was very impressed by how well it came out. My settings weren’t quite perfect and I printed it a touch fast (especially as I’d done no PA calibration and auto-cal is still pretty broken for 0.2mm) but the part came out solid, and it worked perfectly first time.

(No comments on the cleanliness of the keyboad please - it’s not mine :wink: )

I’m looking forward to experimenting more with small functional parts.

13 Likes

Bambu Lab X1-Carbon
Mixed filament
14 hours
Robert Silver’s Wednesday Thing Remix by Dlarsen | Download free STL model | Printables.com

4 Likes

1x combo
mixed filament
10h
6mm nozzle
Doughboy by Mag-net - Thingiverse

4 Likes

Rebel Light Saber Stand by RD Kidd | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Collapsing Lightsaber (Print in Place) by 3D Printing World | Download free STL model | Printables.com

x1 carbon
stand 6mm nozzle 1h
saber 4mm nozzle 5h

5 Likes


Spider’s Web ~ A 3D Printer stress test by E3D | Download free STL model | Printables.com

about 50mins
6mm nozzle

3 Likes

Mother’s Day

Filament Jayo Red Pla



5 Likes

https://www.printables.com/model/67680-four-color-relief-globe-with-stand-mmu-multi-color

21 hours, 0.2mm standard settings

Quantum 3D Green PLA
Polyterra Matte Army Red & Blue PLA
Bambu Lab Support W (I know, right?)
Giantarm PETG Silver


6 Likes

Clockspring3D’s PipTop. This amusing print is print–in-place - the central shaft unscrews to form the handle and the point. I used the “change filament at layer” feature to get the different colors (there’s a fourth color in there but it’s hidden from view.


5 Likes









20230309_125122

6 Likes

A knitting machine cylinder, without supports.

4 Likes

Just for fun and some extremely well thought out stl’s I purchased and downloaded a bunch of files from Fab365

When you sign up and then every time you purchase a file you getva free download

This Tie Interceptor is one of those free files and is satisfyingly easy to print

Just follow the instructions for wall line count, top shell layers and bottom shell layers and outline (wall line count worded differently :man_shrugging:)

At .2mm and 15% grid infill other than the changes mentioned above everything else stays as per your normal settings

I used Bambu Basic jade white and Eryone PLA+ black

Here’s the link but if you sign up only 1 free download is on the house, after that every time you buy a file you get a free download out of the awesome free files available

I’m a giant articulated scorpion as I type this, it takes up the whole buildplate and takes about 2.5 hours

The Interceptor took about the same 2.5 hours to print everything



4 Likes

Got a spool of Braskem polypropylene (PP) filament, which I had never tried before. Found this little box which was designed as a PP test - worked well for that.

They’re not kidding that this stuff doesn’t like to stick to anything else. Wham Bam PEX - no adhesion (Wham Bam says it works). Dimafix adhesive, which (sometimes) claims it works with PP - nope. What worked, as suggested in various YouTube videos, is Scotch brand clear packing tape, which is also polypropylene. Sticks VERY well to that - so much so that it was a bit hard to get off, but I managed.

For some reason, the hinge didn’t come out as robust as I think it should - this is a short bridge between the two halves. It does work, though. I used a brim on this print, a bit of it is still visible.

I adapted the Generic PA preset, set Max Volumetric to 10, nozzle temp to 240 (range 220-260). Bed was 90 for this print.


6 Likes

Thanks for the link!

When you get a surface solution that sticks too much the answer is to use glue stick on the working surface you found. I know it’s counter intuitive and you would think it adds adhesion, but it puts a layer on the surface to help release it. They do that on PEI and PETG. They “like” each other too much.

Also - Always be sure to let the print cool before release. We’re all impatient to get the nice part we finally got off the plate :wink: but on tough to release items letting it cool is the answer.

Really hard ones, don’t force it - freeze it! It usually pops right off then. :+1:

Cheers!

2 Likes

Good generic advice, but not for this case. PP doesn’t like to stick to anything but itself, and glue stick would be as bad as not using anything.

3 Likes

Yeah, I understand PP is a bit of a b*tch to play with. I’ve done a lot of “difficult” high temp plastics but haven’t had the joy (/s) of making PP’s acquaintance!

Usually, on high temp prints a very thin layer of glue will help, but you know better from direct experience, so I’ll file it away in my pointed little head for future reference. :upside_down_face:

We all help each other’s knowledge on here, thanks for the info!!
Cheers!

1 Like

neat, do you have a photo of the Wasserverteiler in action? Curious about its intended application

Nice result except for the hinge! I see Braskem promotes the Magigoo brand adhesive in their Amazon storefront, I wonder if it works any better

Use Magigoo PP on the engineering plate. Works very good in my case when printing with PP.

2 Likes