I’ve printed a bunch of PLA, PETG, ABS, and a bit of TPU on my H2d. Polycarbonate so far has been a non-starter.
Using Bambu clear PC, with the standard .2mm preset (.4mm standard nozzle,) on the left extruder.
Getting extruder overloaded errors when attempting to print first layer. On a retry I was able to get it to extrude, but it looks like it’s getting laid down extremely thin and peeling up. It has been going through an auto bed leveling cycle.
Going up to .25mm first layer and Bed leveling set to On, did get a print that stuck, but it still looked way too thin and parts of the first layer still peeled.
Trying a .3mm first layer now.
I was surprised I couldn’t find any other mentions of this issue, do the PC profiles ‘just work’ for most, or do people just expect PC to need some manual tweaking?
How are you feeding your filaments?
AMS2 in this case. .3mm first layer did get me a usable print, but it appeared quite over extruded.
Oh, also, forgot to mention, I did dry for 18+ hrs at 65c in the AMS2 then at least 6 hours around 80c in a convection oven.
I’m running PC-CF on left nozzle with a 0.24 mm first layer height, and I also have a 0.20 mm Z-offset set with the Smooth Bambu PEI plate.
If you’re running the texture plate at the default -0.20 setting, your filament might not respond well, which could lead to extruder overload on the first layer.
Try slightly adjusting the Z-offset to give the nozzle a bit more clearance something like 0.01 to 0.05 or 0.10 might work well if you’re using basic PC filament.
I had the same EXACT issue the very first time I tried loading PC… Ironically, it was Bambu clear PC, so an apple to apples comparison. It ended up being a clog, it was a pain in the ass to undo, but I got there.
What was the last material you had moved in that nozzle?
I’m feeling it’s because that your filament path is having too much of restriction and friction.
I second the clog or maybe too low a temperature.
Ive had weird issues with petg translucent
I wonder what type if sensor is being used. Maybe the clear is fooling it. Its clear, so the layer is going to look thin. And PC is always going to peel up easily. But when it doesnt error out, is the layer smooth? Are the lines its laying down touching each other? Is it rough and choppy with sections missing?
Picture
After that I tried adjusting the initial offset in gcode from -0.02 to a positive number. Didn’t see much difference until I jumped to +0.1 (not .01). Laid down much better, but still had significant elephant’s foot. +0.15 had a bit less elephant’s foot, but printed similar overall. +0.2 started to not adhere well.
For now I’m just going to leave a custom +0.1 offset for PC filament in the startup code per https://forum.bambulab.com/t/how-to-do-multi-z-offset-settings-for-filaments-bed-plates/50794
Great! I’m glad you found a working solution for your clear PC 
I’ve been using some custom Z offsets for certain filaments also.
The H2D is more sensitive to G-code modifications. I see you found my old X1C Multi-Z code offset I recommend using this Z method for now on the H2D and simply input the Z offset values you need.
Thanks @3DTech, when I’ve got a bit more time I’ll try to digest that new thread. I’m now up to +0.12mm offset and getting ok results with that, (though I think I might need to go even a bit higher.)
Is PC just that temperamental? Or are the Bambu profiles just not great for it? PLA just printed so perfectly out of the box, then PETG and ABS weren’t too far behind.
Meh, Flow Dynamics Calibration just failed with extruder overload. I think it’s time to open a ticket with support.
Forgive me - I’m trying to find where you set offsets for build plates … I’m not seeing it? I even ran a search in BS in the settings and came up with nothing.
Just for fun, reseat your nozzle(uninstall and reinstall making sure that the latch latches somewhat easily and make sure theres no metal burr on the rear of the nozzle.) and try again. If it still looks bad, try 15c higher temp.
Sorry if you have already tried, but also try the other nozzle.
I have some clear pc ill try right now.
I’ve printed extensively with both PC Clear and PC FR without any issues—no problems at all with either the AMS2 or AMS HT.
Have you made any changes to your printer setup? I’m running mine as it came, with the only adjustments being increased nozzle and bed temperatures.
Here you go. This cuts out the possibility of it being a sensor being fooled by transparent filament and also rules out the generic pc profile as being issues. Id say try a different nozzle, manual tune the filament, dry it well, try different pc filament
Generic PC profile. Factory z offset
Overture transparent PC
My temps
110c bed
270c nozzle
65c chamber
My filament tune is
.34 PA
.94 flow rate
16mm3/s max flow rate
Originally dried 12 hours at 65c
If it still doesnt work after these things, start bumping nozzle temp up. If you find it works with a much higher temp, test your actual nozzle temp vs whats displayed on the screen. If those 2 numbers are more than 10c different, contact support. If less than 10c, live with it and learn to adjust temps or do a temp tower.
Running a super thick 1st layer is just a bandaid that will mask things like over extrusion until you hit layer 2. Meaning, if your 1st layer is actually .3mm high but the slicer thinks its .2mm, and it works/looks decent, its because its way over extruding.
Bambu Slicer does not have an offset setting; to adjust the Z-axis, you need to modify the G-code.
The newly released Beta firmware mentions Optimizing first-layer quality, so they may have improved it specifically for the type of filament being used.
Oh nice. I guess I’ll have to wait as I don’t want to mess with the GCODE if I can avoid it.
Thanks for sharing your clear first layer PC test. It could be the photo, but here’s what I’ve managed to Z fine-tune out. I’ve eliminated the small layer ripples on the smooth PEI plate when using HF-PETG. However, getting a 100% flawless finish on the textured plate will be more difficult if it’s even achievable.
But this is an acceptable first layer nice job! 
Perhaps the new firmware will continue to improve it. 
When I got my WhamBam Carbon Fiber Plate, I had to start from scratch, as no one had a working setup at the time. WhamBam’s own recommended values were quite off for achieving a good, clean first layer.
This is the value that prints a perfect layer for me every time:
This is what WhamBam suggests:
Getting the nozzle and bed temperature right is a bit tricky. I kept testing until the model stuck to the bed as it should, and then gradually increased the nozzle temperature until the first layer came out perfectly.
New 3D printer users are often too hesitant to experiment and find what really works for their setup. For example, I need to let my X1 Carbon heat soak for 10 minutes to ensure even bed temperature. I also can’t print ASA at standard speed, even with every fan turned off.
By the way, that first layer was on a Textured PEI, right?
I can try the same print on my Smooth PEI if you’d like a comparison. Just send me the same 3MF file and I’ll get it done as soon as I can. I will have to use glue, since PC will bond too aggressively to Smooth PEI to be safe without it.
I mainly use Magigoo Original. If needed, I’ll switch to a variant like Magigoo PC/PA/Flex, but in most cases Magigoo Original is enough to protect both the PEI surface and the print.
I once tried printing TPU directly on my Carbon Fiber Plate, and it stuck so hard I thought I’d have to throw the plate away and get a new one 
Thankfully, due to the tough nature of the Carbon Fiber Plate, it survived the struggle
If your brand and filament’s first layer comes out perfectly, there’s no need to tweak the Z-axis Bambu Labs appears to be actively developing solutions to enhance first layer performance.