Honestly it is 2-3mm vertically, so it doesn’t really bother me. Can’t say anything yet Matt. Hopefully, once I have it, I can give you guys some news.
BTW, according to @Umuzoo, if I understood his instructions correctly, he doesn’t mention anything about shimming. I will be curious as to what he thinks about it.
In Bambu Studio you can create a custom printer profile with printbed with different dimensions.
In OrcaSlicer, you can also change the setting at the nozzle level settings.
Totally. I used to print on a glass plate held in with clips and it didn’t bother me losing some printable area (and I much preferred the glass plate over anything else). But my glass plate came from the manufacturer so the slicer accounted for it. I’d mostly be concerned about human error and my own inability to remember without the slicer telling me I was off the plate.
I guess it would probably depend on how warped your bed was to begin with.
Perfect. Exactly what I would need.
Sorry english is not my native language. What exactly do you mean by shimming?
If you mean decreasing the safe printable area. No, in my case (P1P) I did not to that. For the delivered clips and P1P there is enough “space” to not touch the outher cyan wiping lines or components according this image:
I am placing the clips on these red arrows. For @penneymick (X1C) this did not work out, so he did design his own clips which I have uploaded here: Printables
By the way. I had printed them for the test purpose and it is freaking ingenious 
! @penneymick did just solve the “reduced area due to mounting clips” issue. His clips are located underneath the PEI sheet since, on the left and right side of GoodPlate is (luckily by coincidence to be honest!) about 3 to 4 mm space.
See this image:
On the left you see my delivered P1P clips. On the right @penneymick Clips. His clips did not perfectly fit to my printer. They where slightly too high. But I really love his idea! I possible will print my own with his design. Be aware that in my individual case the height from bottom edge of the bed to the very top of the glass (not magnetic foil) edge of GoodPlate differs in my case from 9.1 to 9.4 mm across the full length of 258 mm! For this reason it is really really hard to print a clip “fits for every warped” bed.
Notice these 3 to 4 mm on “gap” between glass and magnetic foil. This area did @penneymick utilize. Very very clever imho !! If you print perfect fitting clips for your individual warped bed you can again fully utilize the whole area!!
Using the P1P clips for a reduced safe area zone might also work for X1C. But I did not test it!
Thank guys for this community. Keep up the good work!
PS: @Peter I really do understand your frustration. But please don’t misuse this specific thread as your individual valve. Constructive post are warmly welcomed though.
PPS:
My latest (proud) prints with GoodPlate. Thats me by the way 
Just blurred out my family. The cylinder is 15 cm in diameter
Cheers!
No need to be sorry, your English is just fine.
Shimming in this instance is using something like thin foil tape on the bed to make it a little more level before putting the glass down and clipping it on. I would assume if you had a severely warped bed, you’d need to use several layers in the low spots to try and make it as flat as possible, as the glass will flex a bit too when heated. But if you had a mostly flat bed you might not need to.
this may be dumb question, but why would one need to pul a foil tape before glass? isn’t the purpose of glass to make it flat?
Aah thank you very much for the explanation . Nope, I did not shim the bed nor the glass. The glass+magnetic foil+PEI sheet compound is really stiff actually. And the auto bed calibration mechanism for Z-axis is insanely sensitive (It stops “pressing down” the nozzle almost instantaneously. So the glass bed is not being bent during this process any noticeably). I can’t speak if “extreme” cases of warped bed would also need shimming but I would assume that for the most warped bed issue shimming won’t be necessary.
Cheers
Not a dumb question. The glass itself is flat. It won’t make the old bed flat. The glass and metal have different coefficients of thermal expansion. As the bed heats up they will expand at different rates. Plastic expands a lot, metal not nearly as much. Glass has a low coefficient of thermal expansion so it should retain its shape at the temps these beds get too and not flex very much.
These different rates of expansion are why you have to keep the glass clipped in. If they were attached via glue or something permanent, these different rates of expansion would cause the glass to crack.
I was mostly asking about shimming because ideally the print bed is even with the glass bed so that you get even heating across the glass. If you had a very warped bed, when you heat it up it’s still going to be warped with the glass bed on top of it. You might have some gaps in certain spots between the bed and the glass, which could cause issues. Uneven heating and cooling of glass, like when the edges are a different temperature than the center, can cause stress and cause it to flex and/or crack. If these gaps are small it shouldn’t matter too much.
Nice. Are you having to adjust the print bed temps higher? Or is it transferring heat well?
I did try different things:
The latter option (adding glass directly onto heatbed) worked the best, which had me really surprising. I usually set my desired target temp (depending on filament brand it varies for me between 50° and 65°) for PLA and wait additional 3 minutes once temp is reached according display. Then I start printing.
For ABS I set 100 ° and wait about 1 hour to 1.5 hours (depending on ambient temp) to get the thrutheframe chamber (Printables) heated up to roughly 40 ° inside the chamber to prevent warping during and after print process. Than I start the actual printing process. This is waaay more time the glassbed would need to get heated. If you have ever used Ender 3. Their 4 mm glass gets heated insanely quick too.
Cheers
I have glued the glass to heatbed using silicone glue and nothing cracks. But if you’re ok with using clips, I’m ok with that too. 
Silicone is a very soft and bendy material. It allows the thermal stress of the glass to be absorbed instead of trying to keep the glass in shape by force, so it would need a lot more thermal stress to crack compared to a hard glue that is not any flexible after curing.
Nothing has cracked, yet. As @Thrawn pointed out, silicone is flexible and can be a non-permanent adhesive. A rigid adhesive, like epoxy, would absolutely crack the glass depending on how quickly the temperature changed.
Bottom line is bonding two materials together that have very different rates of thermal expansion and then repeatedly heating them up and cooling them down will cause stress on the parts. Unless you’re using a specific low modulus adhesive, they will fail and delaminate eventually. The weaker of the two materials will crack. It’s physics.
That is exactly what I wanted to point out. It means there is an alternative to clips.
Someone earlier suggested re-casting the top surface of the build plate with a thin layer of silicone. You could smear on a thin layer and then use a piece of glass with mold release to create the new flat top. It looks like there are silicone formulations that can cure without being exposed to air, if that is necessary. So ideally, you could cure it in place, at temperature, and then just pop off the glass. Basically, gluing on a glass bed but then removing it on purpose.
This would work if the heatbed didn’t warp more with temperature changes. The silicone layer is not rigid enough to hold planar geometry itself. That’s why we use glass as a source of perfect flat geometry.
The idea isn’t to structurally reinforce the bed, it is to fill the concavity.
Yeah, I hear ya. Me too. They seem to have botched their early handling and now we’re in limbo …
I actually tried a variation of this - I needed thicker tape than I has so I used some silicone tape then alum tape over it. Got fairly flat, but the silicone tape failed to pass the heat through causing a >10°C variation where that tape was. That’s too much for me.
I used thicker tape in the center and tapered out. It’s fairly good until this shakes out.
I understand and I believe it could work for some people. But there is significant number of users reporting the deformation changes with temperature, thin layer of silicone (or any other) filler will never prevent this and you’ll get warped build plate again.
My support ticket status has just changed to resolved.
WTF?
How can it be resolved when BL replacement heatbed is not due to be posted for another 3 weeks or more.
Mine as well. I believe that was automated action.
I have reopened it immediately.
Anyway, thanks for heads up. I wouldn’t even notice, they haven’t sent any notification.
