From the g-code you can use 0.4 up to 0.75 (0.75 being the default)
M17 Z0.4 ; lower the z-motor current
G380 S2 Z30 F300 ; G380 is same as G38; lower the hotbed , to prevent the nozzle is below the hotbed
G380 S2 Z-25 F300 ;
G1 Z5 F300;
G90
M17 X1.2 Y1.2 Z0.75 ; reset motor current to default
So maybe you can try to modify a little the bed levelling part :
;===== bed leveling ==================================
M1002 judge_flag g29_before_print_flag
M622 J1
M1002 gcode_claim_action : 1
G29 A X{first_layer_print_min[0]} Y{first_layer_print_min[1]} I{first_layer_print_size[0]} J{first_layer_print_size[1]}
M400
M500 ; save cali data
M623
;===== bed leveling end ================================
by adding before :
M17 Z0.85 ; upper the z-motor current
and after
M17 Z0.75 ; reset the z-motor current
But I have not tested it, and I dont recommend this as it wont work from the printer menu, it will only help when doing auto-bed levelling before when printing.
I am afraid you have to use a thinner steel sheet or another material, aluminium is still a very good candidate if you dont bend it and manage to put it on top of the original aluminium plate, but you MUST NOT stick it because if so, it will follow the curvature of the orignal bed. Also it is a good idea to add thermal grease to fill all the airās gaps and ensure a good thermal conductivity between the two plates.
I had to deal with the same problem, the bed was too heavy after installing 4mm plate from tempered glass. I resolved it by losening the bed screws 1-2 turns and redoing bed tramming procedure with intentional ommiting the step where you have to tighten the nuts so they are flush with screws.
Also, Iāve discovered that the problem is more frequent when I try to print on High temp plate. It has something to do with the fact that the bed is still heating up while trying to do homing procedure. Setting the bed temperature to 60deg few minutes before print helps.
I had similiar issues with massiv warping of big prints the last days with my X1C when I get close to the edges at the back of the bed. I also can see/measure that the print bed is warped downwarts for maybe a 1mm or less at that edges (last ~5-6cm of the bed) compared to the front/middle.
Iām an absolut beginner of 3D printing, this is my first printer but never had any issues with warping parts. But I also stopped doing the auto bed leveling in the beginning of a print after a while because it takes so much time and never saw any differences.
After a few troubles with warping in that areas I did a self test + calibration and afterwards a simple 3 layer square print which fills nearly 100% of the print bed and turned on auto bed leveling.
This print finished 100% perfect, even when I turn the speed to ludicrous modeā¦ with that speed you can see with your bare eyes that the z axes are constantly doing small correction when the printing goes from front to backā¦ the bed is kind of constantly shaking a bitā¦ but seems like the bed level correction even works on crazy high speeds.
Not 100% confirmed but it seems for me as a beginner, software can solve little hardware issues for me personally. I just need to remember to do the auto bed leveling from time to time and always turn on when I print something which is close to the edges in the back.
I guess my printer had that warped bed from the first day but since I started with always doing bed leveling and very rarly print big parts it took me over a half year to notice.
Of course for a >1kā¬ machine Iām wondering that it seems like a problem to get an even bed to the customers. I mean we are not talking about something in a PERFECT even rangeā¦ I can see the warping with my bare eyes on an only 25cm plate when I put something really even on the plate.
So is this ānormalā or should I maybe open a support ticket, even if my problems are solved with software?
I would say that 1mm deviation start to be in the low range of an unacceptable deviation (I never had such deviation even with the lowest budget printer I have), but as you said you only noticed that after 6 months.
But I would encourage/like you to open a ticket just for information, as I am (really) curious of what Bambulab consider acceptable.
Automatic bed leveling (ABL) cannot correct for a warped bed. It only keeps the bed as equidistant to head travel as possible. Melted plastic formed on a warped bed will take the shape of the warp. ABL will help produce a uniform thickness, but ABL cannot make it flat.
Iād suggest actually measuring the flatness of your bed. There are several methods described in the early parts of this thread using a straightedge and feeler gauges or a dial indicator. Most of the warped beds have had a shallow curve from left to right, increasing near the edges, but were mostly flat from front to back. Typically the side edges were higher than the center by 0.4mm to 1.1mm. Mine was 0.87mm lower in the center; any print over 100mm left to right would rock on a flat surface. The replacement bed still has a very slight U shape, but is only 0.07mm lower in the center.
I think Bambu (or the bed supplier) has changed their build process because there are fewer recent complaints about the issue. Of course, there will always be some beds that are defective in various ways.
If you measure the bed and find a significant warp, Bambu will want to see a print log and ask you to manually level (tram) the bed. You may as well tram the bed first, to reduce reliance on the automatic bed leveling. The procedure is here: Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki.
The adjustment knobs are hard to grip, a wrench makes them easier to turn for precise adjustment, like this one: Printables
Though turning off ABL saves time, I still use it for my first print after powering on the printer and when changing to a different plate, in case the plates have a different thickness.
Donāt have any fency measuring tools here, so only can say what my simple eyes can tell.
When I put an even aluminium profile on the bed from left to right or diagonal, it looks pretty even, I canāt see or tell that the profile is not touching the bed at any place.
Maybe this is even way less than 1mmā¦ but the result seems to be that the edges in the back have some problems when the ABL is not correct.
Canāt tell what ABL is exactly doing but solved my warping issue which I only had in the back corners, everything else was still perfect.
And when I do a large print, I can see the Z axes doing very tiny correction (within the same layer) when the nozzle is moving in or out of the edges.
Of course hart to tell if this is maybe ānormalā but for what I can tell it seems to be only the time in that frequency when the nozzle is printing in the back edges.
was this like this when it was new or with use?
i just bought a X1C for the first time and now i am worried that this might be a defect to look out for?
I would put in a ticket for that amount of warp, which looks like at least a mm per corner. There is no guarantee that Bambu will consider it out of spec or that a new bed will be better, but it is worth trying to improve the situation. It probably does not affect most prints, but it could matter for prints using the full bed.
Make sure the print log submitted with the ticket includes ABL, so Bambu can see the amount of compensation the printer is using.
Oh I didnāt knew that all my prints get recorded, I thought I disabled it but found all on the SD card.
Here is a part of the test print I did where you can clearly see the behaivor.
This 30min print only has 3 layers, so the z movement should be very minimal.
From 0:00 to 0:30 when the printer is in the left back corner you can see the table shaking like crazy.
Then when it moves to the front, for example from 1:20 to 1:40 it is very stable and has not much z movements.
When it moves to the right corner, starting at 3:20 to 4:30 it starts shaking again getting worse and worse as closer to the edge.
Can anyone say if this is ānormalā behavior or has to do with the warped table, donāt have any other printers to compare.
Iām using this printer only as a privat hobby, so the printer has only ~350h of printtime so far.
Dont know what is really the āgoodplateā, just heard of it some time, but the fix is easy, one way among other is simply to use a tempered glass with a new magnetic sticker on it and then put it on the original aluminium plate without the original sticker indeed (with some thermal grease for better thermal efficiency).
Other/Plenty of workaround have been posted by other people in this thread, problem is that it is so big now that it would be a nightmare to find them all.
It cannot be answered or at least it is very hard to answerd by looking at how much your z axis is moving because there are two variables that need to be taken into account and wich are interfering together :
your manual bed tramming (three knobs under the plate)
You may have a perdectly flat bed and still get lot of ABL and z axis compensation if your manual tramming bed is not good enought and your bed is not supported perfecrly flat even if it is only on a low slopy plane.
EDIT:
I should not have to say that but :
You will never (or without a fā¦ luck) get a 100% perfect manual bed tramming, you will probably get about 0.1 to 0.05 mm error if you do it well. Keep that in mind when evaluating your bed flatness.
Iāve been using a 3mm thick borosilicate glass plate for months, held in place by four small, low-profile clips that I printed in ABS, and have been very happy with the results. I remove the plate, with parts still attached, and put it in the freezer for about 15-20 minutes. The parts pop right off. While that plate is warming back up to room temperature, I put a second plate on the printer and keep going. I have quickly knocked out some big projects that way, with very good results (i.e., very flat parts). Goodplate seems like another great affordable option, too, and the milled aluminum insert with the embedded magnets is a top notch solution, but not cheap. I canāt justify spending that much money on this printer, but I recognize the need some folks would have for that level of performance and accuracy and Iām glad we now have the option.
I used a glas plate for my other printer too, itās easy with clips. But at the X1C? What do I do about the extra weight of the glass and the extra height? Doesnāt that bother the printer?
I did something silly last time I disassembled the printer - I pushed the bed down by using force on it from the top. Since then Iām noticing much more travel due to the mesh being uneven (basically a U shape but the read corners are higher than the rest). I did my best to correct it (one corner was also different height on the rods as well afterwards, looked like the belt skipped but I did not apply that much force).
Iām wondering if I could just try bending it back into better shape. Any thoughs on this? Iām thinking just loosening the tramming screws, placing something in the middle and bending it backwards slightly could work. Iām not printing that many engineering parts but the difference seems to be up to 1-2mm out which is huge for anything that needs to mesh together. Iām still getting perfect first layer.
Iām hoping that we could swap a X1E bed in there in the future - I hope Bambu will make sure those are better (either because of better construction or just hand-selected after production), but in the meantime - could this work?
Once the exdruder drove over a coarse nozzle residue larger than 1mm, the plate was pushed down as if it were spring-mounted in Zā¦ which I never looked at closely
Through PETG printing and offset errors when printing in the Z axis, I can see that the plate gives way as the extruder head passes over it - which is good because something has to give way and then it might not be a bad thing if the base plate goes down into the Z axis. When I saw this on my printer it looked more planned than unexpected. Fast driving collisions can then lead to permanent machine errors (CNC machines can cause damage in the 5-digit USD range - so this problem is knownā¦ Ramming the milling head into the holder unexpectedly and without braking will be expensive), so I was rather satisfied to see this lowering of the plate on my one. Until now I actually thought that they introduced this on purpose but canāt confirm that because Iāve never looked at it that closely.
Addendum Check Step 9 - Install the pretension springs, I think the bed has a spring protection. It is also needed for bed plate leveling. Thanks to @JayZay in āHow auto bed leveling workā
As long as you donāt go beyond approximately 3mm thickness, there donāt seem to be any issues. Iāve been using this setup for more the five months and have never encountered a single error message about extra bed weight or problems with calibration. Homing and Auto Bed Leveling will account for the new higher build surface, but the one thing you do have to be mindful of is the small loss in build volume. Instead of 256 x 256 x 256mm, itās now 256 x 256 x 253mm, meaning printed objects can be no taller than 253mm.
I have used 4mm 254x254mm tempered glass + thermal grease + new magnetic sticker on top of it (and remove the original magnetic sticker), adn got no problem, it is working for several monthes now. But I have read that some got trouble on weight.
My plates are 10 in x 10 in x 1/8 in, roughly 254 mm x 254 mm x 3.2 mm. Youāll want plates that are as close to the size of the heat bed as possible. The startup process for a print includes nozzle cleaning at the back and extruding the long line of material at the front after automatic bed leveling. I didnāt have to make any changes for the long line, because I mount the plate flush with the front, but I did have to adjust the printerās startup G-code for the nozzle cleaning. I shifted the coordinates towards the front by 17 mm. Hereās the relevant snippet:
;===== wipe nozzle ===============================
M1002 gcode_claim_action : 14
M975 S1
M106 S255
G1 X65 Y230 F18000
;G1 Y264 F6000
G1 Y247 F6000
M109 S{nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[initial_extruder]-20}
G1 X100 F18000 ; first wipe mouth
;G0 X135 Y253 F20000 ; move to exposed steel surface edge
G0 X135 Y236 F20000 ; move to exposed steel surface edge, offset by 17mm since there is no dedicated cleaning area (15mm plus 2mm offset due to smaller plate that is flush with the front)
G28 Z P0 T300; home z with low precision,permit 300deg temperature
G29.2 S0 ; turn off ABL
G0 Z5 F20000
G1 X60 Y265
G92 E0
G1 E-0.5 F300 ; retrack more
G1 X100 F5000; second wipe mouth
G1 X70 F15000
G1 X100 F5000
G1 X70 F15000
G1 X100 F5000
G1 X70 F15000
G1 X100 F5000
G1 X70 F15000
G1 X90 F5000
; all Y values from this point forward have been reduced by 17mm since there is no dedicated cleaning area (15mm plus 2mm offset due to smaller plate that is flush with the front)
G0 X128 Y244 Z-1.5 F20000 ; move to exposed steel surface and stop the nozzle
M104 S140 ; set temp down to heatbed acceptable
M106 S255 ; turn on fan (G28 has turn off fan)
M221 S; push soft endstop status
M221 Z0 ;turn off Z axis endstop
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y242.5 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y245.5
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y243.0
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y245.0
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y243.5
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y244.5
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 Z0.5 F20000
G0 X125 Y244.0
G0 Z-1.01
G0 X131 F211
G0 X124
G0 X128
G2 I0.5 J0 F300
G2 I0.5 J0 F300
G2 I0.5 J0 F300
G2 I0.5 J0 F300
M109 S140 ; wait nozzle temp down to heatbed acceptable
G2 I0.5 J0 F3000
G2 I0.5 J0 F3000
G2 I0.5 J0 F3000
G2 I0.5 J0 F3000
M221 R; pop softend status
G1 Z10 F1200
M400
G1 Z10
G1 F30000
G1 X230 Y15
G29.2 S1 ; turn on ABL
;G28 ; home again after hard wipe mouth
M106 S0 ; turn off fan , too noisy
;===== wipe nozzle end ================================
