Ok, thx all. I think this informations help me.
Best regards
You dont put a new magnetic sticker on top of your glass ?
I did so and can use all Bambulab PEI plate as before, only thing required is to set the plate Lidar sticker a little upper, I have done a simple design for this :
https://www.printables.com/fr/model/501376-bambulab-sticker-holder
Without doing this, my Lidar was always complaining to be dirty
1 Like
No. Honestly, I really dislike PEI plates. They’ve always created far more problems for me than borosilicate. I also prefer the smooth finish I get from glass and how easy it is to remove large parts from the build plate (just put in the freezer for a while). Personal preference. I know lots of people are fans of PEI.
Interesting topic that I don’t know yet and probably the last person how see it, at least my eyes didn’t lie to me - a lot of people have probably thought a lot about. Also connected with first layer connection and a lot to read about (also in the Cura Slicer) 
… settings also in Orca, a really cool topic and tons of reading material that I immediately dive into…
No new topics or posts about warped beds, so issue resolved now?
Wondering if I should give BL a 3rd try.
The replacement bed I received in late June still has a very slight left-right curve, but the center is only down 0.07 mm from the edges, which I find acceptable. The old bed was 0.87mm lower in the middle.
Complaints about warped beds dropped off considerably back in June, and the very few recent reports seem to be isolated problems (one corner low), not the consistently U-shaped beds that were common earlier in the year.
1 Like
That sounds promising! Thanks for your reply.
Nevertheless, problems remain because of the flexible building boards that lie on the heating bed.
I found a plate with 250mmx250mmx4mm, it is for voron. I will then have to adjust the launch code as the rear will be missing 10mm or more. Or I will print a part for the rear that will compensate for the height when I apply a piece of construction panel sticker, including the cleaning area.
I wonder if the lidar can cope with this, as the glass plate is also coated. Can you tell me more about this?
Thank you!
The issue has nothing to do with flexible build plates. They form to the shape of the actual bed underneath, which is where the distortion is.
When you have an warped bed contact the support. There is an chance, when your bed is out of tolerances you get an new. I get one and the new was perfectly flat …
1 Like
It’s been a long time since I accepted the position of QC/QA Manager.
Error message: Dirt under the nozzle or… every printer knows exactly the condition of the print bed.
Conclusion: Is not a QC problem at all (Quality controle), so if the seted max tolarance in the QC is not accepteble it is to call a QA problem because it`s controlled and accepted.
Or am I wrong? Happy to learn something new if I’m wrong…
But based on the error message mentioned before, they have certainly care of the matter 
Well i think they have an range for their tolerances, when your bed is in this range you wont get an new one, when you out of this area you will get an new. It was told to me my bed is out of tolerances. The new one i receive was really good, so i think they improved the manufacturing process, and / or the qc.
Do you think the bed is so crooked?
There are other things behind this that cause deformation and raise the flexible print plate.
1 Like
If you do this, be sure to also change the maximum printable height in the slicer for your printer to be smaller by at least the thickness of the bed.
The vast majority of that is from the print material shrinking and causing the warp.
Get a textured PEI build plate, run it at 55* and heat soak your chamber until it is ~35*. Print without the AUX fan and lower the print cooling fan too. That will reduce warping.
All the attempts in this direction that you describe have more or less failed. But of course you are right in principle.
The only material I know of with practically no material distortion is Soft-PLA.
I am now trying the glass plate as a rigid intermediate layer, let’s see how that works. This is the first attempt at my design, where the glass plate is glued to the flexible metal plate with adhesive tape. I don’t yet know how this adhesive strip will behave. It is important that the glass does not slip. I have applied the Cool Plate sticker to the glass, partly because the glass is a bit smaller. I set the bed temperature to 50°C and switched off the AUX fan manually.
Addendum: However, I have already taken similar or the same measures with the print that can be seen in the pictures (AUX-fan off etc.). So at least I was able to finish this print, even if it’s not pretty.
Could someone who’s got the warped bed correction plate (for X1C) from 3018nc.com share some pictures and measurements? (and, how’s it been working for you?)
Ok, what can I say? I’m just perplexed right now. I had expected it to be better, but not as straight as it is now.
Only the print is hard to get off. I have to wait a longer time until i detach the print from this improvised stable plate with glas.
I have tried many things now with this image for the scanner. I think I have scaled it to the right size and printed it on paper with a laser printer. The adapter seems fine, the surface of the adapter and the printing plate are at the same height, but I still get the message that the lidar is dirty and cannot be calibrated? Do you have more experience with this @DzzD ?