So tried installing Orca slicer and see what happened, the issue is more or less the same. However, sitting next to the printer and listening to what’s happening you can hear the nozzle rubbing the previous layer, the recover from missing steps does try to save it and the printer rehomes instead of banging its head against the sides.
That’s funny you mention the rubbing-
I’m running a print with some heat/fan changes just to see if there’s any improvement- and can hear squeaking from the nozzle as well.
I think I’ll try the same print on a higher layer height and see
Good news/bad news: my print using the profile you uploaded just finished and came out perfectly fine on my X1C with black eSun ABS+ so I can’t say there’s anything wrong from a software perspective.
Anyone need a black Stealthburner front?
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So, did you do the flow calibration automatically, or you do your own manual calibration for your filament?
I tried with some other filament (tmfilament) and it doesn’t seem happy either… Prints get loud, almost like a rumble when moving across the print. Would it be possible the auto-flow calibration is correct?
Im having massive issues with ABS and ASA aswell.
I’ve tried so many things:
Flow calibration
Printer calibration
Firmware (1.07.3 and 1.08.0)
Low speed and high speed
Belt re-tensioning multiple times.
Unclogging the nozzle
No cooling/ with cooling
Different type of infill.
Different type of wall thickness
Print temp from 265-275C.
Z hop when retract (1mm)
And nothing seems to make this ■■■■ work.
Just to clarify - its not bed adhesion. Adhesion has never failed. It the nozzle crashing into the print when it reaches a certain height making it miss steps. Its not always the same height but somewhere between layer 20-50.
More clarification:
I’m running Bambu ASA/ABS. Filament had been dried very recently.
Chamber temps are between 48-52C
I’m not there yet, however I do think I found one culprit.
The main issue seems to be the temperature, with my Voron I would normally print AMS no warmer than 235 degrees Celsius, the Bambu seems to like 260 by default,
I’ve reduced the temperature to 240 degrees, and it seems results are improving, also flow seems a bit off (auto flow-calibration still tends to go up warmer than I would like it to)
I’ve now been able to print some smaller items in ABS Benchy and AMS disconnect tool for example. Voron test cube continues to fail at various stages.
I found a fix for the same issue I was having with ASA filament profiles,
I edited a PETG filament profile for temps of ASA, and it ran ASA perfectly- no nozzle dragging, no issues.
Try to edit PLA or PETG to run ABS temps and see if the z height crashing stops.
I tried with an edited PETG profile with correct temps, and cooling.
I didn’t work unfortunately. I still get crashing.
Gonna try a different nozzle tomorrow.
Oh dang.
Does the print you are trying run without issue in PETG?
Same, modified PETG profile doesn’t work for me either.
I can print the VORON test cube without issues in PETG and PLA.
Also tried raising the Z-Hop to 0.8, doesn’t work either.
Now I’m worried lol. I’ll re-check and make sure it actually worked for me.
Are you guys printing from an SD card or network?
Two things I would start off with.
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Sink the model into the bed in the slicer so you are starting the print off at the 6 - 7mm point. That way you can confirm if the issue is related to the geometry and material, as well, you’ll save a ton of filament and time while just testing changes. Its always best to “Fail fast” to fix these types of problems.
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Make sure your flow looks good. I use a P series printer so I don’t know how well the X series’ automatic flow calibration works, but from what I’ve heard, it stays in a very small range. And if your filament needs significant adjustment, you could be over-extruding and creating a crash point. Personally, I’d run a manual flow calibration from the slicer and tune the filament properly.
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I only print ABS and i cant remember the last time i had a print failure.
High temp plate
Polymake profile for ABS
Printer is using stock profile.
Run mesh and cali in morning one time, good for the day.
Clean plate as needed. Soap and water only.
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Ordered a bunch of BambuLab ABS, alt least I can open a support ticket if that doesn’t work.
Thanks to a helpful post in this TOPIC by ghostgirl, i think her solution also applies to my issue.
Changing this in my machine G-Code lead to the first successful ABS Voron testcube print
;===== reset machine status =================
M290 X40 Y40 Z2.6666666
G91
M17 Z0.4 ; lower the z-motor current
G380 S2 Z30 F300 ; G380 is same as G38; lower the hotbed , to prevent the nozzle is below the hotbed
G380 S2 Z-25 F300 ;
G1 Z5 F300;
G90
M17 X1.2 Y1.2 Z0.75 ; reset motor current to default
M960 S5 P1 ; turn on logo lamp
G90
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
M73.2 R1.0 ;Reset left time magnitude
M1002 set_gcode_claim_speed_level : 5
M221 X0 Y0 Z0 ; turn off soft endstop to prevent protential logic problem
G29.1 Z{+0.03} ; clear z-trim value first
Everything else was stock settings:
Interesting. I saw this post, was curious what “clearing z-trim” was actually doing.
I’d like to view the entire output gcode to see if this G29.1 command is used repeatedly or not. I tried real quick but 3mf files are not viewable with text editors- (If anyone knows how to open/read the posted g-code itself let me know)
I tried again yesterday printing 4 of my test parts in ASA using PETG profile+temp changes, still works well, none of the issues I had before. Maybe I’ll try ASA profile and change the z trim gcode and see if I also get positive results.
Do you print from network or SD?
For now, I’m still doing my printing through the cloud thing.
You can select to export a file if you’d like to see the gcode (little drop down arrow next to the print plate button)
I don’t have a clue as to what the G29.1 thing does, however I managed to print my test cube, which seems like progress to me…
I’m still running some tests, it does seem to be different when using a smooth PEI vs the engineering plate …
PETG profile does some aggressive cooling, I do think some extra cooling is required for the eSUN stuff however it may be too much for the ABS filament.
I’m still not able to print the Voron Stealthburner tough.
I did find THIS post how to deal with the different offsets for use with the different filaments.
