Wanting to get some suggestions from the community.
Using the below filament, and noticing warping.
This was at .12 layer height with the 0.4 nozzle and using the Textured build plate.
Filament humidity is at 20%. Chamber temp is around ~45 C.
What are some of the settings being used by others?
Heat
Cooling
Part
Filament
I print a lot of Bambu ABS. The stock profile with a maxed out bed temp works really well for me. Heat up the camber before hand with the bed on max, at the top and the aux fan at 100%. The bed (PEI textured/high temp) needs to be really clean. If I start to have adhesion issues the bed gets washed with dish soap and hot water. I find parts stick really really well this way. On the largest parts I add a brim.
I am also having layer banding issues (if thats the right name) as you can see in the image below. @JonRaymond Any advice on how to deal with that?
Those layer defects are a direct result of poor adhesion. The edges are curling up. Get your adheasion figured out and the issues that youâre seeing will go away.
You are printing at a lower than normal temperature for Bambu ABS. Did you lower your nozzle temp?
Here are my stock settings.
Adhesion seems to be good with these settings. Chamber ~45-50 C.
Still getting the banding issue however. Testing with a taller part that shows the layer defects better.
That wall surface isnât normal. Over extrusion can cause this. What percentage of infill and how many walls are you printing? Have you calibrated the filament?
That wall surface isnât normal.
Ya got that right. 
Seems to be a similar issue to the below thread.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/banding-ringing-type-artifacts/
Strength Settings
I have higher values cause this is ABS and its taking some punishment when in use. Even with these higher wall and infill settings, with a moderate amount of force it snaps across the horizontal direction. Still stronger then PLA though.
Think the higher wall count or infill is hurting here? @JonRaymond
Running the higher nozzle temperature will help with layer adhesion.
I would first calibrate flow for you filament and see if that cleans up the wall.
In general, slowing down your printing speed will always give better surface finishes if you need to have them.
FYI you donât need to @ me, the âReplyâ button below my post will alert me.
Completed another calibration round of Bambu ABS.
So nozzle temp, Factor K, and flow ratio have changed a small amount.
Here is the resulting print:
Still looks like there is room for improvement. @Barryg41 encountered something similar I think.
Adjusting the X & Y belt and then adjusting the Z belt seemed to help, but then after one print everything seems to be worse off and mis-aligned even more nowâŚ
Not to sure what the issue at this point. I feel as though the torsion spring for the Z axis seems to be a little week as well.
If you havenât performed a good cleaning of your running gear maybe itâs time for a good cleaning.
I always take out the build plate before starting because your going to splash IPA everywhere. Clean the carbon rods till no more black comes off. Make sure you clean the lidar lense also.
If your printing ABS/ASA you want to keep your printer as clean as possible. At least once a month.
And then do a full calibration after all of that cleaning.
As @Barryg41 mentioned, stay on top of the cleaning. ABS\ASA are notorious for shitting barely visible residue everywhere.
Clean carbon rods, and Y-axis rods, lube them, and re-tension XY gantry.
Also, you have to keep the chamber very hot, at least 50C in the chamber, and keep 100C for the build plate (for textured PEI). P1 and X1 donât have any insulation in them, so they are quite bad at heat retention and protection against drafts, despite being âenclosedâ printers.
If you havenât performed a good cleaning of your running gear maybe itâs time for a good cleaning.
Did this while performing the other maintenance.
lube them
Need to due this but donât have any of what ever lube is needed. Thoughts? I doubt just lube is the issue but will do this once I find out what lube is needed.
chamber heat
I made some posts on a few other threads about chamber heat, I have been working on a heater and some insulation to help get me to 60 C from 45 C. 60 C would be the absolute highest anyone would be able to go I would imagine.
Just lube is not the issue by itself, but one of the contributing factors.
Are you US-based? Superlube silicone grease is great and many use that for other 3D printers.
60C chamber is probably the most you can get out of that. If you primarily print ABS and ASA, then I would suggest looking at HPPS.
Best way to use Brim for any large objects and or ABS filament. Works great on textured pei plate without glue.
Recently discovered that if I want to get a perfect ABS print, then Iâll take the hit on time and stick it in silent mode!!! Stock profile with no part cooling and 100 degree bed. On P1S
Someone on YouTube did some experiments with seams âalignedâ and seams ârandomâ,
his conclusion was that when using âalignedâ the start/end point was made in the corner, and makes it a weak point for warping, warping was less with random seams.
That may be the case but random seems make parts look like garbage unless you are using fuzzy skin. I print a lot of abs and find the best thing to avoid warping is to make sure the chamber temp is warmed up before I start the print.
Lack of a chamber heater that the X1E has is the biggest issue a lot end up facing.
